MacGregorSailors.com

Hi all, I am becoming a fan of a picture is worth a 1000 words.

I was setting up my new-to-me mac 26x last weekend and came across a number of issues I want to resolve. Every time I came across something I took a photo so that I could later bring it to you for a once over. I appreciate any help you can give me.

1)


This is a photo of the "goose neck" attachment. It is a " u bracket" with some sort of cylinder attached to it. I put my mast on it through the bolt that run port/starboard, what you kinda cant see is that the u bracket on the mast is quite squished, also the bolt that is going through the cylinder point aft, is pointing DOWN at teh mast (it is bent 90 degree).




2)


This photo shows the mast step (or gate) I have 2 issues here. Firstly the bolts appear to be the wrong type and size. I would prefer clevis pins, or something like that I think - these are wrongly sized "home depot" bolts with nylon locknuts on them. I stared to tighten one of them but it bends the metal gate structures. What do I replace it with? Secondly, the mast raseing system is cool, but I would like to keep it hooked up , and solutions for this (also I need the clevis pin for that, if they exist).

3)



This is a photo of the mast raising system. Although I like it it appears that I might be missing a part, and have some wrong parts. The clip at the bottom is annoying, as it only works when "upside down" and awkward, also it doesn't swivel (I can't remember if the top does). I want a 365 degree swivel, and clip to make the rope come out of this at the right angle, and for it to line up right with the top block. Also, I don't know what to hook up the mast end with. On the weekend I used the jib halyard. I am sure I put a lot of stress on it, but I don't know what else to use. Someone mentioned there should be a "d" ring some where on it - I didn't see anything though.

4)



More bolts! this time they are digging in to the hull!, I need clevis pins and stuff to fix this!

5)



Best guess is that the turn buckle is okay, but the "T" seems to need replacement.

6)

can't seem to find a manual on-line for my 50 HP evenrude 2 stroke, I want to learn how to start it, and what it needs for oil - fuel mix, and idea were I might find this?

Kevin.

By the numbers:

1) Go to http://www.bwyachts.comand search on p/n 3407-1V0 for a picture of an asembled gooseneck unit with reef hook and tack fitting. What you have was incorrectly assembled, and parts are missing.

2) A 3/8" stainles bolt and nut is fine, but Blue Water Yachts sells a quick pin to do the same job. Again, search on p/n 3443-1V0. It's just a 3/8" stainless pin with ring-dings, but it should be easier to use than a bolt. Same for the gin pole. The bolts don't have to be tight, by the way - as long as they can't fall out, you're good.

3) Get a twisted D shackle (3/16" or heavier) to put a quarter turn into the lower block. That will orient the line towards the cabine roof winch. You can use a swivel, or even a snap shackle with swivel, but now it's getting expensive. Suncor p/n C0163-0005, for instance. The top one I can't see, but if it's not lined up with the lower one, use the same quarter turn shackle.

The later gin pole system uses a bail on the mast (a big D-ring), but your system uses the jib halyard. I'd suggest terminating both ends of the halyard on the gin pole unless you're very sure the cleat on the mast can hold several hundred pounds force. Both ends landed on the gin pole also puts less load on the halyard block up on the mast. Make sure the eyes on the gin pole are through-bolted - i.e. same bolt goes through BOTH eyes, both ends of each eye.

4) You can get stainless pins of whatever dia. and length you need at any marine supplier, including West Marine, BWYachts, Defender (maybe, as they mostly cater to power boats), etc.

5) Same with turnbuckle tee-bolts, though the original equipment was a set of stay adjusters consisting of inner and outer units each with a series of holes on a slightly different pitch (center spacing) such that you could change the length in increments of something like 1/10 inch, like a vernier. It may be cheaper to get replacement parts for your turnbuckles at this point, but the cheap looking and derision-attracting OEM adjusters are pretty tough, which is needed given the abuse they get when raising the mast and not noticing the shrouds are hung up. Mine were all bent up to some degree, but they're easy to straighten, and they still work fine.

Good questions all. I'll take a stab at answers:

1. The gooseneck connector is clearly bent and improperly connected. The arms of the "u" shaped bracket attached to the mast should be at right angles, and the short cylindrical piece should freely slip between the two arms, and bolted in place with a bolt and nylon lock nut.
2. If the mast step bracket is pinching the mast, either your bolt is too short, or you're tightening it too far. You may need to get a new bolt with the proper length. I do favor the positive connection afforded by bolt and nylon lock nut. I'm not sure that clevis/pin would work in place of that larger diameter bolt.
3. I'm not sure, but it looks like your main halyard may not be threaded correctly through the turning block. On mine, there is a reinforcing pin on the underside of the block. If yours has that pin, be sure that the halyard passes above the pin, so it's fully in contact with the block pulley. Yours looks to be coming off at an angle, which suggests it's rubbing against that pin.
4. You are missing some connecting hardware for your mast raising rig, where it connects to the foredeck eyepad. It looks like the previous owner substituted with a small caribiner, probably to get away from the stock clevis/ringding hardware. You correctly note the problem here, with the angle of the mast raising line coming off at the wrong angle. This looks very dangerous to me, considering the high stress which gets placed on the mast raising line when raising the mast and tensioning the forestay to permit pinning. I would recommend ordering the proper hardware from BWY.
5. Regarding keeping the mast raiser attached to the mast step while out with the boat, this can certainly be done, and may seem a good idea for day sails. However, I find that the foredeck is a pretty restricted area, and I think it's worthwhile to do everything possible to keep that space clear. I do always have my mast raiser along, in the event that I need to lower the mast while underway. It's come in handy for getting past some bridges I didn't want to wait for.
6. You've correctly diagnosed the problem with those bolts gouging the fiberglass. Properly sized clevis pins will fix that problem.
7. Regarding the bent shroud connecting hardware, I'm thinking you should consider simply replacing all standing rigging. You may not know the history of your boat's usage. Considering the number of orignial parts which are missing, replacing the cables and connectors should be considered. They aren't that expensive to replace, and it will give you good peace of mind.

One comment on the turnbuckles, or T bolts as you called them.

Your picture shows the reason why vernier plates are a better choice for trailer sailors...they are less susceptible to bending damage as you see. These components are stressed to between 200-400 pounds of force when correctly tensioned..any bending weakens them considerably.

Here's what my gin pole looks like, with what I believe is the OEM hardware.

Bottom block has a stamped D-shackle. Looks like you have the same block, with the shackle missing. A new one is less than $4.



I put a quarter turn shackle on the top one, but if I was going to use this arrangement again, I'd put it on the bottom and use the stamped D-shackle on the top. I needed to straighten out the blocks when I got the boat so it worked correctly (the PO also had a twist in it), so I slapped on the quarter turn shackle, but there are cleaner ways to do this.



I'm replacing both blocks with larger ball bearing blocks that I have laying around (too big for anything else on this boat), so what's there is coming off, but I wanted to post those pics so you could see what I did at least. Looks like all you're missing is one stamped D-shackle. If you want something that's quicker to disconnect, then you're probably going to get into a shackle with a captive pin (better than losing a pin overboard) for more money, or a snap shackle (fixed bail is cheaper than with a swivel, but not cheap either way).

I would NOT use an inexpensive carabiner, as they're not load rated, and not intended for this sort of work. If it fails, you or someone else could get badly hurt. A mast falling unexpectly can do some real damage.

I would be happy to talk with you about your boat and the problems. We do offer all the parts you need. I would also not recommend using the boat with the mast raising kit still attached, it really needs to be removed once the mast is up. If you sail with the mast raiser on you will quickly understand, the sail will catch on it and most likely rip. It also can be in the way if you need to go forward. Give us a call, Blue Water Yachts 206 282-4261, and congratulations on the new boat!

Okay so we have 3 new problems now.

1) I have a evenrude 50 HP engine, While I got it running quickly (once the spark plugs where plugged in LOL), it ran for about hour +/- mostly just above idle slowly pushing us around. I did open it up a few times and it seemed to work fine.

However, as I was trying to load up the boat, it stalled once or twice, and then died. Now when I turn the key, it doesn't even try to run the starter - it just doesn't do anything! It is fairly likely that the fuel ran out, though I added another gallon to the tank, but the situation is the same. I put the key in and turn it and there is nothing that happens. I have done with with one , and both battery selected, and the "power tilt" seems to still work, so I don't think it is a power supply issue. When it died it was tilted upward a bit. (shallow water). So what I am wondering is where do I start to fix this issue?

2)I KNOW THAT THE LINE GOES THROUGH THE "WINDOW" BUT IN ORDER TO MAKE IT BACK TO DOCK, AND SURVIVE THE NIGHT, THINGS HAD OT BE REDONE.





my furler is unhappy. I thought it was all set up and happy, but when I opened up the Genoa sail last night, the until separated the steal "window.case" portion stayed were it was, however, the top is able to slide upward, a number of inchs, and this causes it to stop working. It seems there needs to be a way to keep the rotating portions on the bottom, and stop them from sliding up the stay. Items?

3)I am pretty sure my keel isn't coming down, I will attach another picture of the line I think should lower it, but it doesn't move. How far should this rope move from "in to out" positions? I was guessing about a foot , or 2. and one have a photo of what the rope looks like with the keel up and down for reference? assuming it is stuck up - what is the best way to fix it, .. in the water, and get wet, or try to jack it up on the trailer?

Oh nooooo Kevin!
I just got your PM....and responded there.
Hope you can get this all sorted. The only thing I know is about the line for the keel....should move about 2ft or so I believe.

Hope you can get everything sorted and running. Hang in there!!!!

However, as I was trying to load up the boat, it stalled once or twice, and then died. Now when I turn the key, it doesn't even try to run the starter - it just doesn't do anything! It is fairly likely that the fuel ran out, though I added another gallon to the tank, but the situation is the same. I put the key in and turn it and there is nothing that happens. I have done with with one , and both battery selected, and the "power tilt" seems to still work, so I don't think it is a power supply issue. When it died it was tilted upward a bit. (shallow water). So what I am wondering is where do I start to fix this issue?

Are you in neutral when you try to start? Most engines have a switch that prevents cranking electrically if neutral is not engaged....

yes, it was in Neutral at least as far as I can tell. (the shiftier is centered in its "notch"). Do the engine need ot be in the down position , or in the water, or have fuel, for the starter motor to run? I would not run it with out cooling, but for testing purpose, you could run it for 3 seconds on land, with out the water cooling right?

You can. I once ran my Merc for about 15 minutes without water with no damage.

If it won't crank at all, I suspect a safety switch or simple electrical problem of some kind.

If it doesn't crank at all, I'd look at fuses and such. I left the safety kill lanyard off once and it wouldn't start, but at least cranked.

Does it make any sounds when you turn the key on?

I used to have a Honda 50, and could not use earmuffs or run without water... it would burn up the impeller quickly. I went through several impellers. I eventually bought a large plastic garbage can to fill with water to test on land.

I hate to ask... did you pump the bulb to get the fuel going. I have had the engine stall when idleing along time because the bulb would empty.

Please feel free to visit my website for more pictures (click on the little world icon to the right under my avatar)

You might want to go thru the instruction manual to see how everything came from the factory:
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/manuals ... l_1996.pdf