MacGregorSailors.com

So what should the lugs nuts on the trailer be torqued to? Mac Aluminum trailer with standard wheels.

Unless I have better data, I use 100 ft-lbs for lug nuts.

When I got my New Tadem Trailer 4 years ago, Manifacture said to ck torque after 100 miles, than every 100 miles there after.
We all know this as a product protecting gimit.
I cked after 100 miles 80lbs and 2000 miles still at 80lbs.
I used a air torque to ck both times, now just use the 4way bar hand tight just to make sure.(none of the lugs needed tighten)
Always good to ck as nuts can come lose.
Dave

RussMT wrote:So what should the lugs nuts on the trailer be torqued to? Mac Aluminum trailer with standard wheels.

Most trailer manufacturers recommend 90-120 ft/lbs. I use 90 ft/lbs. (dry, no lube) using a proper click-type torque wrench and I've never had one come loose.

Here's BoatUS's take on it:

http://www.boatus.com/trailering/2012/j ... wrench.asp

...and a trailer reseller's opinion:

http://www.countrytrailer.com/uploads/TorqueSpc.pdf

...and a major manufacturer (EZ-Loader) spells out how to do it on page 20 of their owner's manual:

http://www.ezloader.com/Manuals/ezloade ... 202013.pdf

Initially tighten to 20-25 lbs., using a criss-cross tightening sequence on a 5 bolt wheel. (See figure 11.) Finish torquing per manufacturer’s recommendations on all new trailers. EZ Loader is not responsible for damage from loose
lug nuts. Re-torque after 25-50 miles of use and on a periodic schedule from then on. Lug bolts or nuts should be clean and dry. Do not put grease or other lubricant on them.

Thanks.

I'm finishing up my 2nd axle mod and put 4 new wheels on it and want to do everything right.
The Aluminum frame is extremely easy to modify. Thanks to folks on this board, I was able to order an exact duplicate and everything fits just right.

Anyone want to guess what to torque the bolts that attach the axle to the frame? The factory bolts did not seem that tight. But again, I want them secure.

--Russ

RussMT wrote:Anyone want to guess what to torque the bolts that attach the axle to the frame? The factory bolts did not seem that tight. But again, I want them secure.

Depends a lot on the type of bolt and the size, but these should get you close to what you need:

http://www.portlandbolt.com/technicalin ... chart.html

http://www.repairengineering.com/bolt-torque-chart.html

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-infor ... orque.aspx

Awesome

Thanks Kevin!

I use Anti seize on my Lug nuts and tighten till It feels almost the same as the loosening torque. I have changed dozens and dozens of tires and never used a torque wrench yet its should be a Extremely strong bolt or stud Like grade 8 - 10 steal (tough stuff) and never had a problem yet. I mean honestly if your trailer gets a flat on the road are you going to look around for a Torque wrench? No will you have a impact wrench if they rust on? No - So just sort of get used to tightening almost as hard as ya can. Get a feel for it. I mean I truly appreciate engineer guys that try to do everything by the book but when it comes to changing a tire I am pretty sure its guts and grease.

Well, given how inexpensive a proper torque wrench is (heck, I think they're down around $25 at Harbor Freight and other vendors) there's really no reason not to have one and to toss into your 'go' tool box.

I have a 'go' tool box that goes on any trip with me, boating or otherwise, and it's saved my a** more times than I can count.... contains everything from a set of US/Metric wrenches and sockets, hammer, screwdrivers, hand drill and bits to a small electrical test meter and a flashlight... also includes a small bag of spare nuts, bolts, screws and wire along with a little bottle of lubricant and - of course - some duct tape... and *many* more things as well... it's just too long to list everything. All of it fits into an inexpensive polypropylene tool box with a tray (rust-free, low noise).

As to the anti-seize... well, we've had this discussion before, but unless you're specifically adjusting your torque for that specific lubricant's torque-altering properties, then you're probably over-torquing the nuts and are risking stud fracture. (Yes, studs do fracture - and often. Several cases have been reported here on this forum alone.)

Here are some charts that show the differences between lubricated and dry torques. When not stated, every torque chart I know of states the torque in *dry* ratings only.

http://www.repairengineering.com/bolt-torque-chart.html
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
http://www.federalscrewproducts.com/torque-chart.htm

"Note
'The values listed above are for clean and dry parts free of lubricants and thread lockers. A lubricated fastener must have the torque values reduced 25 - 30% from the above ratings."

kmclemore wrote:Well, given how inexpensive a proper torque wrench is (heck, I think they're down around $25 at Harbor Freight and other vendors) there's really no reason not to have one and to toss into your 'go' tool box.

I have a 'go' tool box that goes on any trip with me, boating or otherwise, and it's saved my a** more times than I can count.... contains everything from a set of US/Metric wrenches and sockets, hammer, screwdrivers, hand drill and bits to a small electrical test meter and a flashlight... also includes a small bag of spare nuts, bolts, screws and wire along with a little bottle of lubricant and - of course - some duct tape... and *many* more things as well... it's just too long to list everything. All of it fits into an inexpensive polypropylene tool box with a tray (rust-free, low noise).

As to the anti-seize... well, we've had this discussion before, but unless you're specifically adjusting your torque for that specific lubricant's torque-altering properties, then you're probably over-torquing the nuts and are risking stud fracture. (Yes, studs do fracture - and often. Several cases have been reported here on this forum alone.)

Here are some charts that show the differences between lubricated and dry torques. When not stated, every torque chart I know of states the torque in *dry* ratings only.

http://www.repairengineering.com/bolt-torque-chart.html
http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
http://www.federalscrewproducts.com/torque-chart.htm

"Note
'The values listed above are for clean and dry parts free of lubricants and thread lockers. A lubricated fastener must have the torque values reduced 25 - 30% from the above ratings."

As compared to a 4way or a tire Iron you already have? Seriously? Have you ever seen anyone Ever break out a torque wrench changing a tire? I never have. EVER Whats more if you honestly need a Torque wrench to change a tire YOU SHOULD NOT OWN A BOAT. frankly almost everything you do on a boat is instinct and common sense.

Ormonddude wrote:Have you ever seen anyone Ever break out a torque wrench changing a tire? I never have.

All my life I always turned the nuts until they squeaked loud. I'm sure this isn't the smartest way to do it and now that I have my handy dandy $25 torque wrench I figured it's time to do it right.


I've also learned not to trust other "Mechanics". Recently had a hitch installed on my Highlander by U-Haul. Besides taking way too long and the service guy seeming frazzled, something seemed wrong.
So when I got home and upon inspection I discovered the numskull broke off one of the hitch bolts and left it that way. Missing a bolt with snapped off piece still in the car. I got the broken off bolt out and replaced it. Then torqued all the bolts because who knows what else they did wrong.

Ormonddude wrote:As compared to a 4way or a tire Iron you already have? Seriously? Have you ever seen anyone Ever break out a torque wrench changing a tire? I never have. EVER Whats more if you honestly need a Torque wrench to change a tire YOU SHOULD NOT OWN A BOAT. frankly almost everything you do on a boat is instinct and common sense.

Well, you've never seen me change a tire, I suppose, because I use one every time. It's particularly important if you have disc brakes as an improperly torqued wheel can cause warping of the brake rotor, among other things.

Of course, as you say, 'if you need a torque wrench to change a tire should not own a boat', then I would suppose that every NASCAR, F1, SCCA and virtually every other racing team should never own boats either, since they all use torque-limiting wrenches to install their wheels.

What can I say... I'm an engineer. I use the best tools I can that will improve the accuracy, integrity and safety of the devices I design, build and repair. It's worked for me for over 40 years, but your mileage may vary.

Ever see "My cousin Vinny" when they're discussing wrench torque?

then I would suppose that every NASCAR, F1, SCCA and virtually every other racing team should never own boats either, since they all use torque-limiting wrenches to install their wheels.

No they dont a Air impact Wrench is not a Torque Wrench with all due respect, My brother is a Mechanical/Aeronautical Engineer for Martin I went to school for Electrical and I am still not Anal enough or foolish enough to Feel a torque wrench is needed to change a tire on a crappy Mac Trailer IF your Foolish enough to put ONE bolt on and Then Jump Up and Down on a T- Bar YOU MAY warp a rotor. NOW all this being said My Brother is a brilliant Engineer but basically has no business Owning a Boat He does Not Know what side of a Screwdriver to Hold and all and all Someone had to play Devils advocate on this discussion or potentially Dozens of members could run out for a torque wrench thinking its a needed piece of kit I Assure you its Not!!!!
Show me the Torque Wrench in this Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=073oejvtPa4

As someone who actually was a race car owner, mechanic and driver over a period of 40 years (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7), I can assure you that the air wrenches you see them using at pro-race events like NASCAR are not your run-of-the-mill wrenches. They cost upwards of $1,500-$2,000 each, they get rebuilt or serviced after every few races, they are very accurate and can be regulated closely to apply the proper load and speed. In addition, as you clearly didn't notice, he's using a torque-limiting socket in that video. Look again.



I'm not going to argue this point any further. You can do whatever you like - more power to you (and your brother). My advice to the members here is to use a torque wrench if at all possible... it will help prevent stretched, broken or stripped studs and will ensure the lug nuts stay put. On your car's wheels it will help prevent warped rotors as well.