After I tore off the starboard side windows I wanted to see how the shape of the new ones would look on the boat so I took them out of the box for the first time. The instructions from Rudder Craft say that they'll fit in the same holes as the old windows. Of course, nothing is easy. Some of the holes line up but not all of them. I guess I have no choice but to drill new holes. Has anyone else had this problem? I sent Rudder Craft an email about 3 days ago, but no response as of yet.
Also - a small patch of fiberglass was pulled off the boat with a piece of the window. What's the best and easiest thing to do to fix that? I'm also beginning to think that I should give the sides a new coat of paint while the windows are off.
The old windows came off in about 50 pieces and there must have been a pound of silicone holding them on. Took me a good hour just to remove the windows and clean the one side of the boat.
I don't have the same boat but I have had a few mail-order conundrums. As much help as I can offer is I searched google images and noted the orientation of the windows. What year is your 25? There are precious few pics(like only 1) with a single plexi like yours. I'm sure many have been changed but there are some pink ones too so I wonder if you're stuck with a little extra work due to the year of the boat. The forward window appears to be laid out upside down in your pic. The angled corners are commonly set with the long edge/corner up and back. Are there rights and lefts? Any word from rudder craft?
I'm not familiar with your area but if there is anywhere that sells marine hardware it's worth getting marine silicone. For residential homes caulking is the last line of defense against water intrusion(which may cause a mess, possibly mildew and worst case a little rot) therefore it is cheap and usually of mediocre use against UV exposure(the great enemy of boats); on a boat caulking is the first, last, and only line of defense against water intrusion(which can cause sinking and death) so it becomes very important to use the right one!
Don't worry your persistence will pay off and you'll get your answers and get it sorted,
I wasn't paying any attention to the direction of the window when I took the photo. I had turned it around just seeing if any of the holes would line up. I can only get one to line up.
I'm just going to fill all but the top center holes over each window and drill new holes to match the new windows.
I did go to WestMarine and bought a tube of their caulk that the guys there swear will do great. But they have no idea though how its different from the GE Silicone II that I bought. Probably made in the same factory and put in a different tube and thus $19 at WM instead of the $6 at Lowes. Oh well, whatever...
I'll have some photos up before next weekend of the new windows!
Why not just give Rudder Craft a call direct. It's toll free and Joel usually answers the phone. I talked with him twice today. He has always seemed concerned about his products when I've talked with him. And friendly.
After I tore off the starboard side windows I wanted to see how the shape of the new ones would look on the boat so I took them out of the box for the first time. The instructions from Rudder Craft say that they'll fit in the same holes as the old windows. Of course, nothing is easy. Some of the holes line up but not all of them. I guess I have no choice but to drill new holes. Has anyone else had this problem? I sent Rudder Craft an email about 3 days ago, but no response as of yet.
Also - a small patch of fiberglass was pulled off the boat with a piece of the window. What's the best and easiest thing to do to fix that? I'm also beginning to think that I should give the sides a new coat of paint while the windows are off.
The old windows came off in about 50 pieces and there must have been a pound of silicone holding them on. Took me a good hour just to remove the windows and clean the one side of the boat.
Billy wrote:Why not just give Rudder Craft a call direct. It's toll free and Joel usually answers the phone. I talked with him twice today. He has always seemed concerned about his products when I've talked with him. And friendly.
Thanks but no need - I'm drilling the holes in the boat tonight. I'm just surprised they don't bother returning emails.
I think I'm just going to hold them on with the screws (no epoxy) for now. You guys think that would be OK? Reason being, I am planning on painting the topsides at the end of the season. It would be a heck of a lot easier without the windows in the way.
Mine been sitting under my bed last 3 years. Retired in March and waiting for cool weather here in SW Florida to install them. Also install new Rub Rail and Regelcoat hatches.
Getting old is a pain in the neck! would have done all this 30 years ago.
Ambition is gone, It is still in the mind but body says...slow down to a galup.
My mind still says you can do it!
Dave
NavySailor wrote:
DaveB wrote:I got my replacement windows thru BW.
I think they still make them for the 25 mac.
Dave
Thanks Dave - but I already have these. Nothing wrong with them. Just need to install them.
DaveB wrote:Mine been sitting under my bed last 3 years. Retired in March and waiting for cool weather here in SW Florida to install them. Also install new Rub Rail and Regelcoat hatches.
Getting old is a pain in the neck! would have done all this 30 years ago.
Ambition is gone, It is still in the mind but body says...slow down to a galup.
My mind still says you can do it!
Dave
NavySailor wrote:
DaveB wrote:I got my replacement windows thru BW.
I think they still make them for the 25 mac.
Dave
Thanks Dave - but I already have these. Nothing wrong with them. Just need to install them.
LOL! You have quite a waiting list of equipment installs doncha Dave
Billy wrote:Why not just give Rudder Craft a call direct. It's toll free and Joel usually answers the phone. I talked with him twice today. He has always seemed concerned about his products when I've talked with him. And friendly.
Thanks but no need - I'm drilling the holes in the boat tonight. I'm just surprised they don't bother returning emails.
I think I'm just going to hold them on with the screws (no epoxy) for now. You guys think that would be OK? Reason being, I am planning on painting the topsides at the end of the season. It would be a heck of a lot easier without the windows in the way.
We replaced our 42 year old windows last year.
I bought bronze lexan locally and just cut my own to the shape I liked.
Deleted the old aluminum frames and glued them on directly with Dow 795 (no screws). Used a a home made press system until the 795 set.
We love them as opposed to the old windows.
I can appreciate you not wanting to glue your windows on until after you paint. I rarely make any mod as permanent until after I sail with the design (and prototype) for a while and then formalize the change. This approach has paid off many times.
I would not just screw those new windows directly to the openings with no sealant. The sealant not only acts as sealant but also buffer shock absorber for the window cabin connection. I would at least use a roll of window weather stripping (the self adhesive type) as a gasket around the windows until you glue them on. That way you might prevent cracking around the screw holes.
is an 86'.
