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Does anyone have information on how to make the OEM jib (Hank on) fit a CDI furler? I have a '97 26X

Send it off for modifications or just buy a new jib for a little more money.

You have to have a luff tape sewn in to replace your hanks. It is a job for a sailmaker IMHO.

It probably is cheaper to either get a new jib or put in a new forestay!

It's expensive to modify. It cost me $200 plus shipping to have sunbrella UV stripe sewn in my RF jib. To add luff tape would be even more. Cheaper to just buy a new (and better quality) sail.

If its a genoa maybe cheaper to make a DIY furler and keep a working jib on the CDI...

RussMT wrote:It's expensive to modify. It cost me $200 plus shipping to have sunbrella UV stripe sewn in my RF jib. To add luff tape would be even more. Cheaper to just buy a new (and better quality) sail.

And offset that cost by selling the original, if not needed. A sock may be cheaper than sewing in a sun guard strip after the fact.

I have a sock - takes five minutes.

Tomfoolery wrote:

RussMT wrote:It's expensive to modify. It cost me $200 plus shipping to have sunbrella UV stripe sewn in my RF jib. To add luff tape would be even more. Cheaper to just buy a new (and better quality) sail.

And offset that cost by selling the original, if not needed. A sock may be cheaper than sewing in a sun guard strip after the fact.

dlandersson wrote:I have a sock - takes five minutes.

Tomfoolery wrote:

RussMT wrote:It's expensive to modify. It cost me $200 plus shipping to have sunbrella UV stripe sewn in my RF jib. To add luff tape would be even more. Cheaper to just buy a new (and better quality) sail.

And offset that cost by selling the original, if not needed. A sock may be cheaper than sewing in a sun guard strip after the fact.

I have the sock. Took 5 minutes on the bow.
That's why I paid $250 to have the cover sewn in. Then I bought a 150 gennny with it already sewn in. Takes zero minutes on the bow.

BTW, does anyone know a good way to keep the RF extrusion from bending and getting kinks when stored? I just bought a new one because the old one got deformed from hanging off the bow.

I could not get an estimate of less than $700 to sew in a cover. 5 minutes started seeming very reasonable.

RussMT wrote:

dlandersson wrote:I have a sock - takes five minutes.

Tomfoolery wrote: And offset that cost by selling the original, if not needed. A sock may be cheaper than sewing in a sun guard strip after the fact.

I have the sock. Took 5 minutes on the bow.
That's why I paid $250 to have the cover sewn in. Then I bought a 150 gennny with it already sewn in. Takes zero minutes on the bow.

BTW, does anyone know a good way to keep the RF extrusion from bending and getting kinks when stored? I just bought a new one because the old one got deformed from hanging off the bow.

dlandersson wrote:I could not get an estimate of less than $700 to sew in a cover. 5 minutes started seeming very reasonable.

Wow! I see your point.

I sent mine to Red Sky sails, a Doyle sail loft.
http://www.redskysails.com/
Was approx $200 plus shipping to add sunbrella cover.

Shortly after, I decided to buy the genny.

RussMT wrote: ... BTW, does anyone know a good way to keep the RF extrusion from bending and getting kinks when stored? I just bought a new one because the old one got deformed from hanging off the bow.

I hope someone else has the secret for this … cause I gave up.

In my efforts, I tried many methods including a swamp-thing voodoo hex, with little success.

I tried:
- storing it in a 30’L x 2"W black PVC pipe
- remove from the boat and stored rolled-up over the winter (like they store at factory)
- remove from boat and roll-up and use the heat gun on the kinks
- leave on the boat and tape to the mast over the winter
- leave on the boat and tape to the mast over the winter, then use heat gun in the spring
- leave on the boat and try to stretch it out, while using heat gun
- finally and just before trying the voodoo hex, bang it on the ground and throw it as far as I can and let it hit the gravel road.

... it’s not straight, but it’s better now than when we got it from the PO 8 years ago

I strap the headsail/roller furler to the mast for trailering and storage. Take care to not get the spreader bracket under it (this kink never came out) and support the overhang at the front - I use a length of 2 inch PVC pipe.

I've got a piece of 2x4 that it's strapped to - keeps it straight.

RobertB wrote:I strap the headsail/roller furler to the mast for trailering and storage. Take care to not get the spreader bracket under it (this kink never came out) and support the overhang at the front - I use a length of 2 inch PVC pipe.

Since the train is on a siding at the moment, I'll just add that I usually pull the bolt at the mast hound and slide the whole furler and sail towards the top of the mast, with the drum then supported directly on the bow rail. A load of those little red loop bungies with the ball on the end (from Walmart, of all places), are great for supporting the furler and sail at the mast. Cheap to buy, too, and so far lasting surprising well in the weather.

I now use the genny shrouds to lash the sail to the mast - one aft and one forward.