MacGregorSailors.com

my fill valve is getting hard to pull up and down (after 10 years) and I'm wondering how often you sea dogs repair or replace those valves / seals ? I greased around the seal where the gate seats, and that seemed to help.

I want to work on it before the season starts... what say ye ?

Easy fix.

Here's a thread on it.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/forum/v ... =8&t=23623

thanks a lot...mine isn't stuck, but I want to fix it before it's a problem. The waterproof grease helped a lot, but the valve is probably about shot

I guess BWY is the place to get the valve ? I get most of my parts there

Or you could take the valve to your local RV service center.

they could match it up ? you mean it's not marine quality stuff ?? I know it's similar to the valve on the waste tank of my trailer

Or you could redesign it so its a bit more watertight. Mine seems to leak when sailing the boat hard. Not sure how to fix it but I will probably try someday.
Ix

so you lose needed water weight while under way ... I check mine all the time to make sure it's plumb full

Everything I have read leads me to believe this is a part intended for RVs and adapted with a longer handle for use on our boats.

RobertB wrote:Everything I have read leads me to believe this is a part intended for RVs and adapted with a longer handle for use on our boats.

Yep. Probably why they don't last long in salty marine environments.

It's an RV valve. Have you ever seen one of these anyplace else?

Heck, you could upgrade to an electric deal and have a switch in the cockpit.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... alve/36150

Simple one
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... seals/6382

I bet Wal-Mart even carries them.

I want to get this one. It looked more enclosed, like it might survive a bit better in a marine environment.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... alve/51560
Paulieb

Paulieb wrote:I want to get this one. It looked more enclosed, like it might survive a bit better in a marine environment.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/it ... alve/51560
Paulieb

It only looks more enclosed because its a powered unit. The original valve is fairly beefy. And even though the motor is sealed, the connections/electronics may not be. Before buying, I'd try to find out if the whole thing is actually submersible and what you're going to have to do to run power to it.

paul I wrote:Before buying, I'd try to find out if the whole thing is actually submersible and what you're going to have to do to run power to it.

Good point. It's probably the electrical that will go first. And then what? Is there a manual open in case it locks up or corrodes contacts? Imagine busting it open on the ramp.

My gate valve started to stick. Some lube all around made it happy again. Probably needs it around the rubber gasket.

Mine is probably original, but it's a fresh water boat. A little silicone grease and it's good for the season. Even if it leaked a little, a quart or two out of 160 gallons (or thereabouts) isn't going to make any difference.

I'll get a manual valve and have it on hand to install when it finally fails. I bought a steering cable two years before mine finally broke and I has happy to have that on hand when it was needed.

Some of those greases and sprays can cause the rubber to swell. I used marine grease and it seems to have worked.

sailfish02 wrote:I'll get a manual valve and have it on hand to install when it finally fails. I bought a steering cable two years before mine finally broke and I has happy to have that on hand when it was needed.

Some of those greases and sprays can cause the rubber to swell. I used marine grease and it seems to have worked.

My dad taught me that there are no hardware stores at sea. He had a spare for almost everything on his boat.
You are wise to have bought a steering cable. I've seen some people rig a boat pole as and emergency tiller.