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The plug in the water ballast tank is letting water through into the cup area . {about half full}This happens after Ive been out sailing.I have tightened the plug so that it goes in tight but still have the problem.
The boat is only 2 months old. Any ideas?

Fantastic site by the way.Plenty of knowledge out there.
Moonie

Moonie, I would get a new plug...you can get them anywhere there are boat supplies......Sometimes, the plug gets worn(even though the boat is new) Sometimes the plug gets over-tightened.......one time, in a pinch, i used teflon tape to stop seepage.....it worked. Randy

Thanks Randy.I will try obtain a couple here.

I tapped mine out with a 3/4" pipe tap, and fitted a plastic schedule 40 ball valve in. It's so tight that it holds air, as i hear a whoosh every time I open the stern valve. Many X owners also added a hose to the anchor locker so they never have to close the inner valve. That requires drilling and gluing for M's. The ball valve will allow me to check it with the straw if I feel the need? I don't anticipate any problems.

I had the same problem with my plug when I got my M. I spoke with the dealer, and he told me the plug is adjustable. Hold the rubber part, and turn the metal tab on top. It will either make the plug longer and thinner or shorter and fatter depending on which way you turn it. I do not remember which way I turned, but when I made it shorter (Probably clockwise) it worked for me.

Elia

You might want to inspect the hole for any rough or chipped edges... the expanding plug will compensate for a lot of variation in the hole, but sharp chips or cracks won't be sealed by the plug no matter how tight you make it, and it will always tend to weep as you've seen. You should only have to tighten the plug enough to make it 'snug' for it to be leak-free on a 'good' hole... if you really have to crank down on it to make a seal you'll end up damaging either the hole or the plug, or both.

If you do find any damage to the hole, then I'd probably find a round filler of the right size to nearly fill the hole (a rubber plug, plastic pipe, vinyl tube, smooth wooden dowel, whatever - not styrene plastic, though). Carefully and liberally wax the plug - several coats - with Carnuba wax (resin will not stick to that type of wax - you can find it in auto stores), then insert the plug in the hole and carefully apply a light rim of marine epoxy around the hole to smooth things out... once dry, lightly ease the edges with some 320-grit wet sanding paper to leave a nice clean rim that will seal nicely with only light pressure from the expansion plug..

elia wrote:I do not remember which way I turned, but when I made it shorter (Probably clockwise) it worked for me.

Clockwise makes is tighter... rotate the handle a little at a time against the plug, trying it in the hole until it's tight enough.. best not to over do it.

Richard O'Brien wrote:I tapped mine out with a 3/4" pipe tap, and fitted a plastic schedule 40 ball valve in. ... Many X owners also added a hose to the anchor locker so they never have to close the inner valve.

That's pretty much what I'm going to do to mine, though I'm going to skip the ball valve and just run it up and into the locker - shouldn't need a valve then.

I'd love to find a 'whistle' to put in the pipe, though, so once the air stops I'll be able to hear when it's full... anybody know where to get one (besides ripping apart one of my kid's toys)?

We haven't had any problems with the OEM plug on our 26X, however, we did add a seperate one-inch vent hose routed to the galley drain. I just installed a battery powered full-ballast alarm....pretty simple, inexpensive, but haven't had much water time on it. I used a $10 Harbor Freight item 42702. The alarm is about the size of a deck of cards, uses 3-AAA batts, has velcro attachment, and a couple feet of lead...the sensor is plated steel...I added an opening into the ballast tank adjacent to the others, and set it at 3". I have a mod drafted up with some pics. Hope to post it after I do the IRS thing this week. I expect salt water may corrode this...but at $10...no big deal...or perhaps adding some SS if needed. The alarm is loud and has an on-off switch so you can shut it off when the situation allows you to go forward.

Elia - as a bubblehead (I presume), aren't you getting enough underway time without the Mac? Took me a few years after the sewerpipe experience to get back into it. You still patrolling?

I've noticed that my plug tends to come out. It seems tight enough when I put it in. I don't know if it comes out sailing or motoring. It may be that when the hull flexes and water being non-compressible the pressure pushes it out. I'm starting to like the idea of the ball valve and maybe add a whistle too. Is that plastic ball valve available at the hardware store?

Sounds like we have a few "bubble heads" on board. I was on nuclear fast attacks for a couple years. I think Macs are safer and they don't make me seasick.

BB

1. A whistle will drive you crazy (Everytime the boat goes over a wave).

2. I added a passive vent line too. Didn't even tap the vent hole, just screwed a 3/4" bronze hose nipple directly into the fiberglass. Mine is plumbed up to the anchor locker, but it's a day-long job, and tough working conditions up in that bow cavity. Doing over, I might just run a hose to the head sink line.

3. Ballast plugs are standard issue. Check the "orange hardware drawers" at Home Depot. Liner plugs are there too. As mentioned above, the plug has adjustable diameter - turn the handle clockwise to enlarge it.

4. Until I tossed it in the parts bin and routed a passive vent hose, my plug leaked the other direction. I'd usually add mild reverse throttle until pushing some ballast water up into the collar. Then I'd have the Mate close the aft valve & quickly jam the vent plug tight. Invariably, I'd find the collar sucked completely dry after a few minutes under sail ... and never found water entering the collar