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We just recently purchased a '95 26S. The first time out and about to trailer her I could not get the swing keel to raise. The previous owner told me it was heavy and hard to get up. I can't believe I didn't break the cable assembly trying! We tried motoring forward (previous owners suggestion) to help but no luck. It is almost as if it is hyperextending and pulling on the line actually presses the board down. Admittedly I think it's operator error. The manual doesn't shed any light on this either. I actually wound up in the water at 8pm (Brrrrr) to manually move the board aft and it lifted rather easily with someone inside ready to pull. What am I doing wrong?!?! Am I supposed to cleat the board off in the down position while underway? Is there a repair in order? Thanks in advance from this newbie sailor!

Did you check if the keel pin was removed before trying to raise the keel? That could be an easy answer. Or maybe the winch is not operating the way it should.

May the line onto the winch is crossing over itself

Thank you for the suggestions! Unless I am missing something (very possible), the set up on our 26S does not have a winch or keel pin. The line coming out of the galley face is used to raise and lower the centerboard by just pulling and cleating it off. It is connected to a SS cable, runs through a couple blocks and I believe connects directly to the board. The board itself is actually very light (~25lbs) and does not provide any ballast. Once the board is manually moved slightly aft it easily retracts with one hand. But I've been the one in the water so I cannot exactly speak to that. I have not been able to tract down a schematic of the set up to really understand what is going on below the surface and visual inspections while on the trailer does not help. So puzzled!

Is it possible the CB is installed backwards? Don't laugh - when I first got my boat, it didn't take me long before I realized my rudders were on backwards, as the 'sharp' trailing edge of my foil shaped rudders were actually leading. I guess the PO thought the sharp edge would penetrate the water better or something.

Something to check for, at least, as if the hole for the retraction line is too far forward, it certainly could be trying to rotate the CB forward instead of backward into the trunk, or at least laying up against the hinge with no leverage at all.

They did build the S's different so not sure what one you have. Mine is a 94 with the centerboard bolt in the ballast tank and the access panels inside not on the bottom. I do not believe ether model the centerboard could be installed backwards, just not physically possible. I would be looking to see if there is a lot of growth in the centerboard trunk around the pivot bolt. I would also check the pulley/pulleys for the control line. I would put some marks on the centerboard line and tie it off when it is down so that the centerboard will not swing past 90 deg or less. In higher winds I like the centerboard swung back a little.

It seemed logical, she is in dry storage at the lake right now, but if I remember correctly the exposed, leading edge of the CB was round (not sharp like the trailing edge of the rudder) and filled the majority of the trunk, not leaving much room for inspection. Grady I believe mine too has the access panels located from within the vessel like a few I have read about and not from the underside. All the pulleys seem functioning well except when the line was allowed to fully extend. Then it feels like it is tied to the dock! I will try to limit the distance the line can travel with a stopper knot and some trial and error (and error) at a functional length. Can I remove the pivot pin then slide the CB out for inspection while on the trailer? I do not think I could clearly see in the hinge section of the trunk to really look for issues.

Tomfoolery wrote:when I first got my boat, it didn't take me long before I realized my rudders were on backwards, as the 'sharp' trailing edge of my foil shaped rudders were actually leading. I guess the PO thought the sharp edge would penetrate the water better or something.

More likely, he put them on when they were in retracted position, not thinking that they rotate 180 degrees when deployed.

Mubekal wrote:It seemed logical, she is in dry storage at the lake right now, but if I remember correctly the exposed, leading edge of the CB was round (not sharp like the trailing edge of the rudder) and filled the majority of the trunk, not leaving much room for inspection. Grady I believe mine too has the access panels located from within the vessel like a few I have read about and not from the underside. All the pulleys seem functioning well except when the line was allowed to fully extend. Then it feels like it is tied to the dock! I will try to limit the distance the line can travel with a stopper knot and some trial and error (and error) at a functional length. Can I remove the pivot pin then slide the CB out for inspection while on the trailer? I do not think I could clearly see in the hinge section of the trunk to really look for issues.

You can not remove it when it is on the trailer (if your trailer is similar to mine. The fwd bunk is at the front where the pivot is, there is a bar to support the back near the axle. With a good light you should be able to inspect all around the CB and inside the trunk, it is not a tight fit. Possibly someone has over tightened the pivot bolt? I don't think you could deform the trunk enough but you never know.

My first change to the centerboard control was to run the line from the top pulley fwd to a thru bulkhead pulley in the back under the table then aft to a V cleat. Makes it quick to change, raise and lower the CB.

Sorry best pic I have, Not sure if your sink is inboard or outboard? Seen it both ways on a S model.

I have a 95 26S and I removed the centreboard last year to rebuild it and you need to remove the boat from the trailer to access it. The problem you are having could be caused by a number of things causing an accumulation of friction in the mechanism. The pivot hole in the centreboard could be warn and larger causing the centreboard to raise in it trunk and bind when you pull the line. Other problems could be the ss wire frayed. But lets hope that the pulleys under the dinette are seized. No matter what you think may be wrong always start trouble shooting at the easy and cheep fixes first. So make sure your pulleys are free and nothing is jamming under the galley. It only gets harder from there.
Good luck.

grady wrote:You can not remove it when it is on the trailer (if your trailer is similar to mine. The fwd bunk is at the front where the pivot is, there is a bar to support the back near the axle. With a good light you should be able to inspect all around the CB and inside the trunk, it is not a tight fit. Possibly someone has over tightened the pivot bolt? I don't think you could deform the trunk enough but you never know.

My first change to the centerboard control was to run the line from the top pulley fwd to a thru bulkhead pulley in the back under the table then aft to a V cleat. Makes it quick to change, raise and lower the CB.

Sorry best pic I have, Not sure if your sink is inboard or outboard? Seen it both ways on a S model.

Its it probably my fuzzy memory. I climbed under the boat only once when I purchased it looking for damage to the CB. Most likely I will find the circumstances as you described. Nice Mod! I will have to look closer at that area! Thanks for the input!

paulkayak wrote:The problem you are having could be caused by a number of things causing an accumulation of friction in the mechanism. The pivot hole in the centreboard could be warn and larger causing the centreboard to raise in it trunk and bind when you pull the line.

This makes a lot of sense with what I have been experiencing. If the top of the CB is in fact contacting the trunk and changing the pivot point to aft of the retract point that would explain the sensation of it feeling like I am forcing it forward/ down. The control line pulleys are all free and clear and wire visually OK with some amount obscured. So is it possible to launch in shallow water, open the interior access panels to the ballast tank (with water ballast valve closed of coarse) and remove the pivot pin and remove the CB for repair? Does the control line easily detach with goggles and a deep breath?

Mubekal wrote:

paulkayak wrote:The problem you are having could be caused by a number of things causing an accumulation of friction in the mechanism. The pivot hole in the centreboard could be warn and larger causing the centreboard to raise in it trunk and bind when you pull the line.

This makes a lot of sense with what I have been experiencing. If the top of the CB is in fact contacting the trunk and changing the pivot point to aft of the retract point that would explain the sensation of it feeling like I am forcing it forward/ down. The control line pulleys are all free and clear and wire visually OK with some amount obscured. So is it possible to launch in shallow water, open the interior access panels to the ballast tank (with water ballast valve closed of coarse) and remove the pivot pin and remove the CB for repair? Does the control line easily detach with goggles and a deep breath?

I recently dropped "Mistress" CB while she was on her trailer.
You lower the front end of the trailer as far as possible, then shore up the rear of the boat using 4 x 4's. Now, begin to raise the front by using the trailer tongue jack stand, lifting as far as it will go. Start shoring up underneath the hull so you can safely place a hydraulic jack under it and continue the process.
Using this method, I brought "Mistress" approximately 6inches above her trailer; more than enough room to remove and refit the CB.

This is the only picture I took while she was raised. You can see the shoring near the stern.

As for your problem; The hole in the CB is 1 1/4" in diameter, and the pin is 1" in diameter and approximately 3/8" on either side of the CB, so there shouldn't be a problem with binding. "Mistress" CB that I replaced was the original, and the specs were the same as the new CB. There shouldn't be binding unless a PO decided to modify the CB to reduce the play that was built onto it (I did that to mine). In the following picture, you can see how much side-to-side freeplay there is in the 1990 model



Goggles and a deep breath? Depends......
"Mistress" PO had simply wrapped the uphaul line around the CB. It was a simple matter to cut it free. The new line has a bolt, and 3 nuts on it. The S/S rope is passed though a V-shaped cut out in the back of the CB and secured in the CB with the bolt and nuts.
The following picture is the replacement CB I installed in May. The original CB did not have the V-shaped cutout or the hole for the uphaul line in it.

I am having the exact same issue on a 95 26s I just purchased. Swing keel will not pull up at all. Doesn't matter if you lower it 10 degrees or all the way, any attempt to pull up on the keel is like pulling against a brick wall. If you swim under the boat and push up on the keel by hand, it retracts easily. Any suggestions as to what might be wrong and how this issue could be trouble-shot/remedied with the boat in the water would be greatly appreciated.

All pulleys are functioning and there doesn't seem to be anything jamming the keel.

As said in the previous post. Dive under and push the CB up. Have someone cleat off the rope/line. Now you can put it on the trailer to check it out. Since it is in fresh water, there is the possibility of mussels in the center board tunnel. I am in salt water and barnicals can build up quickly.