Rudder knock up setting

[warren631]

1988 26D newbie question: How do I set the two ropes on the rudder to allow the rudder to stay down unless it hits something. There is one rope to raise the rudder and another to pull the rudder down via a pulley. Do I need to install some kind of a release cam? Thanks.

[bobflshmn]

If you have the standard setup there is no auto release setup. I almost broke my rudder in kelp of the coast off San Diego once, so be careful. There is such thing as auto release cam cleat. Although I have not added one to my D, I will be adding it to my next boat if it does not already have it. Here is the link to the only one I am aware of. You may have to replace your pull down line to 1/4 inch if your current line is thicker.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm

[Curwen]

I have an 88 26D and I don't have a cleat other than the one on the rudder assembly itself. Doesn't mean I'm setup correctly...or well...

Curwen

[Sumner]

... Here is the link to the only one I am aware of. You may have to replace your pull down line to 1/4 inch if your current line is thicker.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm

I've had that release....



... on the boat for a long time and love it. I'd highly recommend doing the mod. Not expensive and easy to do ....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... ing-1.html

Sumner

============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015

The MacGregor 26-S

The Endeavour 37

Trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

[warren631]

Could I just not tie the rudder down and just let the rudder hang down due to its own weight? Then if it hits something it just gets knocked up over the obstruction and then drops down again. This also provides automatic reset.

[Sumner]

Could I just not tie the rudder down and just let the rudder hang down due to its own weight? Then if it hits something it just gets knocked up over the obstruction and then drops down again. This also provides automatic reset.

I don't know about the stock rudder but mine is a Ruddercraft.com rudder and if you don't pull it down it comes up. Even if it isn't all the way up you don't want to use it that way as there is a tremendous pressure on it if it is trailing backwards and it won't work in that position. It is designed to work and survive all the way down. So you need the downhaul or it needs to be pinned down. If a pin then hopefully one that will break if the rudder hits something and chances are it will sooner or later.

The quick release is not that expensive and works great,

Sumner

============================
1300 miles to the Bahamas and back -- 2015

The MacGregor 26-S

The Endeavour 37

Trips to Utah, Wyoming, Idaho, Canada, Florida

Mac-Venture Links

[Starscream]

Could I just not tie the rudder down and just let the rudder hang down due to its own weight? Then if it hits something it just gets knocked up over the obstruction and then drops down again. This also provides automatic reset.

On my X, if the rudders aren't tied down in some way they end up not staying all the way down once the sailing speed gets good. The drag of the flowing water forces them part of the way up, and it becomes very hard to turn the steering wheel.

My solution is to wrap the rudder tie-down line around the cleat, but to not actually cleat it off. I just do a single loop around the base of the cleat, and that provides just enough resistance to keep the rudders down while sailing. Since the loop isn't tied, a good hard pull on the rudder will get some line to slide around itself on the loop and let the rudders come up.

[Tomfoolery]

Could I just not tie the rudder down and just let the rudder hang down due to its own weight? Then if it hits something it just gets knocked up over the obstruction and then drops down again. This also provides automatic reset.

On my X, if the rudders aren't tied down in some way they end up not staying all the way down once the sailing speed gets good. The drag of the flowing water forces them part of the way up, and it becomes very hard to turn the steering wheel.

My solution is to wrap the rudder tie-down line around the cleat, but to not actually cleat it off. I just do a single loop around the base of the cleat, and that provides just enough resistance to keep the rudders down while sailing. Since the loop isn't tied, a good hard pull on the rudder will get some line to slide around itself on the loop and let the rudders come up.

That's what I do. If the steering gets difficult, I put an eyeball on the rudders to make sure they're all the way down. I should probably put a mark on the lines to make it easier to verify. Like the one on the CB line (full-up and full-down). Anchor rode marks at 25 ft intervals, too - 1, 2, 3, or 4 rings, starting over after 100 ft, with no confusion since I (hopefully) know when I have the first 100 ft payed out.

Magic Markers are a useful addition to any sailboat.

[vizwhiz]

Take a look around for that cleat - duckworks sells it, but it is higher priced than you can get it elsewhere. (Not that I'm opposed to supporting Duckworks)
I just bought it on Amazon for about $20. Actual item name/number is Clamclean CL257.

[Highlander]

Tom


When does the Magic kick in abra caddabra

J

[Tomfoolery]

Anchored in a quiet cove, nobody around, couple of glasses of wine, and wait for the magic.

And if that doesn't work, next time I'll try it with the admiral on board.

[Highlander]

Tom
Yer bad !

J

[warren631]

Probably by the time the rudder gets knocked the dagger board is already busted. Or does the dagger board protect the rudder?

[Interim]

I use a small bungee cord to attach the line to the cleat. And I have a backup line installed but not connected, just in case.

--john