MacGregorSailors.com

My front looking windows are extremely leaking.
I put a beat of silicon around them and that stopped most of it.
The real fix is obviously to take the windows out and completely reseal them.
Here are my questions for all of you that did that repair before:
• Are the 4 screws holding each window sheet-metal type or are there nuts behind it?
• Once you remove and cleaned the window and the seat, what did you use to reseal them?
• Are there any additional tricks, like putting screws in the center of each side to make the windows follow better any flexing of the deck under load?
Any assistance is greatly appreciated

Obelix

This is what Hunter uses to install windows and to reinstall if necessary, and I'm pretty sure others here have used it for their own boats.

http://www4.dowcorning.com/applications ... ountry=GBR

Hello,
The windows on our 95X are held in with double sided closed cell mounting tape. After removing the windows I cleaned the old stuff out and remounted with 3M mounting tape. I then back filled the gap with black marine silicone. The repair has lasted for 12 years.

Good luck.

Butyl tape is the new standard for bedding. Watertight, removable, non-staining and no residue, especially if you have through bolts to compress it. Avoid polysulphides (sikaflex) as they will attack the plastic and cause it to breakdown and cloud over. The real issue with silicone is it leaves a residue that nothing will adhere once it comes off and the only way to remove it is by sanding.

What ever the factory used seemed to be pretty strong. I took out my side Windows and had to use a chisel to carefully cut away the sealant. It looked like black polysulfied to me.

Ix

Probably black polyurethane, holds strong to most everything including poly C, plastics FG etc but is subject to UV degradation overtime.

Hi there,

The factory used a black silicone rubber sealant. That's what we use when replacing windows, too, a product made by BoatLife.

There are no nuts on the back of the screws. The biggest thing to keep in mind when you're res-eating the windows is not to over-tighten the screws. They are really only there to hold the window firmly in place as the silicone adheres and over-tightening will often crack the window.

I have an instruction sheet with more information on it, if you want to email me I'd be happy to send it your way.
[email protected]

Thanks,
Ezra
Bwyachts

What I've done to get a window tight while the sealant sets is to use longer machine screws, with fender washers, both inside and outside. You can get them fairly tight without having to worry about cracking. After the sealant sets, remove the longer screws, one at a time, seal up the screw holes, and replace with the correct length screws. Or, do as I've done, use finish washers on the outside.
Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL

Ezra_BWY wrote:Hi there,

The factory used a black silicone rubber sealant. That's what we use when replacing windows, too, a product made by BoatLife.

There are no nuts on the back of the screws. The biggest thing to keep in mind when you're res-eating the windows is not to over-tighten the screws. They are really only there to hold the window firmly in place as the silicone adheres and over-tightening will often crack the window.

I have an instruction sheet with more information on it, if you want to email me I'd be happy to send it your way.
[email protected]

Thanks,
Ezra
Bwyachts

Boat life’s life caulk is a polysilphide and is specifically recommended not to use to install plastics especially acrylic, polycarb, pvc or abs. Epoxy,nylon or Delrin are ok.

Those Windows are marginal any way. I am going to put replacing them on my list next year. I have two bomar style hatches in mine, but I will remove the Windows and hatches completely and rebuild the frames from scratch and use 3/8 lexan.
Ix

Ixneigh wrote:Those Windows are marginal any way. I am going to put replacing them on my list next year. I have two bomar style hatches in mine, but I will remove the Windows and hatches completely and rebuild the frames from scratch and use 3/8 lexan.
Ix

Agreed. Maybe that’s why they end up cracking around the screws. The polyS weakens and hardens acrylic and Medan making them brittle. Think it’s worse for pvc and abs.

yukonbob wrote:

Ezra_BWY wrote:The factory used a black silicone rubber sealant. That's what we use when replacing windows, too, a product made by BoatLife.

Boat life’s life caulk is a polysilphide and is specifically recommended not to use to install plastics especially acrylic, polycarb, pvc or abs. Epoxy,nylon or Delrin are ok.

Boatlife also makes silicone and silicone/polyurethane caulks. Maybe that's what he's referring to.

http://www.boatlife.com/silicone-rubber ... artridges/

http://www.boatlife.com/lifeseal-sealant-cartridges/

Ahh, thought he had wrote life caulk. Bought and used some at 30% more than sikaflex or 3m but it appeared to be the exact same thing. Basically bought a small squeeze tube for the same price as a large tube of sika/3m, felt kinda cheated. On a similar note I like using methyl hydrate for cleaning surfaces as it leaves zero residue, if using MH or alcohol based cleaners, make 100% sure that it’s completley dry before applying any polyurethane products cause if it’s not, it will NEVER cure.

We have taken out top and side windows and re sealed with sikaflex. (Added extra ss screws) Only lasted a few years as top windows are leaking again. As all windows are now crazed, I plan to remake new windows with 5mm acrylic.
Top windows may need to be thicker. Would be good to be able to replace top windows with opening hatches for better air flow to cool inside.
Will use a butyl mastic tape this time.