MacGregorSailors.com

Hello
I want to renew the hoses that drains the motorwell and the kitchen.

I prefer to go with this high pressure hoses:


The reason is that is easier to mount it becouse it gets tight just without sealing. If I go original I have to use sealants on top.

It there any reason I should not do so?

Thanks all - kurz

kurz wrote:Hello
I want to renew the hoses that drains the motorwell and the kitchen.

I prefer to go with this high pressure hoses:


The reason is that is easier to mount it becouse it gets tight just without sealing. If I go original I have to use sealants on top.

It there any reason I should not do so?

Thanks all - kurz

I guess I don't understand. Tubing is sized by its inside diameter (as opposed to pipe which is sized by its outside diameter). So whether the hose is high pressure or not, the ID should be the same for a given size and it should seal the same.

That being said I can see no reason not to use the tubing you presented as long as it fits.

My method for doing this kind of stuff is to use a vinyl tube that is slightly tight going on. Dip the end in near boiling water for 30 seconds or so and it will heat up and become easily pliable and stretchable. Then slip it on. Once it cools it will be nice and tight.

sorry make it clear: original ist this:


and I would use now this


Of course the diameter has to fit!

I think what Kurz is trying to say is the factory hose looks like this stuff.

Corrugated PVC hose



I don't know why, but I have never liked the look of this stuff. Seems like it could easily crack and leak. Maybe because it reminds me of my home vacuum hose that cracks and leaks.

The issue with drain hose is the opposite of what pressure hose is for. We don't care about pressure inside the hose, which there is none. We care about the hose collapsing from lack of pressure.
I guess that is what corrugated hose is for. It stays open with lack of pressure.

Kurz, for what it is worth, the corrugated hose is corrugated on the OUTSIDE not inside. So you won't need sealant to fill the space.
--Russ

I feel the quality of pressure hose is superior. I don't know why. It just looks stronger. If it were me, I would use that.

Here's a guide for marine hoses

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/ ... rine-Hoses

kurz wrote:sorry make it clear: original ist this:


and I would use now this


Of course the diameter has to fit!

Wow, I see what you are talking about now. On my those drains use a piece of clear vinyl tubing, without the high pressure reinforcement. That corrugated stuff does not seal well at all because it has the spiral pattern. I would definitely use a re-enforced vinyl tube, whether it is high pressure or not really doesn't matter.

Kurz,
I would definitely change the drain hose as you propose. The green corrugated tubing you show doesn't match the drain tubing in my boat, and I wouldn't use it for that duty. As you say, you would have to use a tube of sealant to make it work.

As Russ MT shows in his pic, the drain hose in my boat has a smooth core with external spiral reinforcement.

Jim

I replaced the hoses with that vinyl hose this last winter,
'When I removed the old original hose it just broke off as soon as I touched it.
For safety I will change it every 5 years fron now on, and check it every year. I will kink the hose and if it begin to get hard I will change it.
The drain outlet is normally above the waterline, but with people in the cockpit is in or under the waterline. If there is any waves they could cause water ingress.
This is definitaly something to keep an eye on.

This thread has inspired me to check that aft drain on my this season. Ive had the boat for 5 years now and I've never changed it. Geez... I think I've only even seen it twice.

But if im gonna crawl back there, I'm just gonna change it out. I tried a search but didn't find what i'm looking for. I thought I remember even seeing a pic someone had of that aft drain connection... but I cant find it. I want to make up a materials list ahead of time.

Does anyone know the tube size? 3/4" ID ??? maybe need a foot or so? 4 total hose connections??? 8 clamps??? are the and the same?

i replace my hoses with that exact better hose Kurz, way better than the old.
i put a new thru hull, right next to the existing one. one thru hull is for the sink, the other is for the motor well. i cut out the old silly fiberglassed in pipe- and put a thru hull in the moter well as well, then ran the same size as the sink drain) hose from the motor well to the original thru hull.
much better system all round, the motorwell doesnt get clogged up easily, and also block the sink line, then the sink wont drain.
now everything flows nicely

thanks @all.
By the way: my through hull is all time under the water line...

And somewhat strange: MacGregor used hose clamps that have ss stell band, but the screw of the clamp ist normal metal and completely corroded... Hope I'll get out it all easily

i am a firm believer in all thru-hulls being bronze, have a stop cock/gate valve on the inside. and everything being double clamped with good solid, SS hose clamps.
i prefer the ones with a proper bolt, not the silly little screw head ones.

and i really try an avoid thru hulls below the water line.
even my mascerator outflow is above waterline, just empty it while underway!

how you drain the motor well?

Power boats often drain the motorwell directly through the transom. Not sure why Roger designed the motorwell and drain this way.