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We had to pull our 26s out a couple weeks ago because of flooding at our lake, and of course the boat didn't get all the way on the trailer. We gave it a few bumps and got it closer to the V, but it was still a couple inches short by the time we got home.

I wrapped a lifting strap around the transom and ran the ends forward along the sides of the hull. I attached the strap ends to a come-along that was hooked to the front of the trailer and winched the boat snug into the V. While this means taking a couple more items to the marina when we haul it out, it certainly felt safer than doing the Macgregor bump.

--john

I like that idea. I have some nice long, heavy-duty cargo straps that I might start taking with me in the truck. Normally, I get the boat pretty snugly into the Vee, but I agree that this method is better than the "bump" for those times when it doesn't get all the way up, or slips back.

The other possibility is, once you winch the boat all the way up to the "V" in the water, pull it out; as the boat settles on the trailer, there will be a space. Back the trailer up into the water and winch it more tightly. I have found that after two such attempts, the boat sits snugly almost all the way to the "V". You don't need the bump which is cool, but risky.

Others have suggested squirting some liquid dishwashing detergent on the carpeted bunks, to make winching easier. I keep forgetting to do that, but I will certainly try it at some point

The “bump’ has always worked for us. It felt uneasy the first time, but it’s nearly fun now. Important info from earlier posts: 1. Have about two inches slack in winch line ( this takes the downward pressure off the trailer)
2. After a nice forward roll (about 5 mi/hr) heavy into brakes. And a satisfying ‘wup’ and she set in the V.
It’s needed due to the geometry of flat water and slopes ramp. Also had to do this with my 26’ power cruiser -even with roller deck.

Recently replaced carpet and wood with new wood AND date-expired FIRE HOSE. (It was free) And it is tough and works great. (FYI- those hoses have a time limited shelf life as a fire hose-so out they go)y. Wrapped in for continuous coverage of the bunk. Secured by screws from the bottom side.

I find the bump to also be a good confirmation that the trailer brakes still work. When I do the bump with functioning brakes, the boat slides right into position with a satisfying thump. On those occasions when the brakes have decided to quit (for various reasons), the boat/trailer tends to just shove the truck ahead, and I have to go quite a bit faster, and really slam the truck brakes to get the boat to slide.

An interesting tidbit. I have been doing this with the winch strap tight. Very tight. Maybe working against me.

Next week is take-out day, so I'll try this.

Thanks.

--john

This year I tried pulling out the boat on the trailer, attaching the tie-down strap LOOSELY between the boat and the trailer, then re-launching the trailer. You only want 2-3" between the hull and the bunks. Now re-tighten the winch so the bow moves into the V. This reduces the angle between the boat and the trailer, allowing the boat to fit more snugly against the V. No bump needed. I borrowed this idea from another Mac poster.

It seems that the bump is necessary due to the location of the winch. It is below the bow eye on my X when the boat is on the trailer correctly. Tightening the strap as the trailer is loaded pulls down on the bow and makes it impossible to pull the bow forward. It increases the load and friction defeating the winch.

I put a small roller under the vee block and run the winch strap over it. This make the pull from above the bow eye now, which lifts the bow and allows the winch to pull the boat all the way to the vee block, no problem, no bump.

Ken

I guess I have some trailer work to add to my winter projects.

Thanks.

--john

How much of the gap is due to the line in the winch just stretching? One could try coated SS cable to test this out.

My slides in into the stop when i stop at the tie down area with the lightest tap on the brakes (trailer brake still locked out)

There are too many variables.
The launch ramp at Oceanside has an angle that requires the bump if the boat ballast is full, but if you empty the ballast first and THEN drive onto the trailer the bump is not needed, the boat goes into the rubber stop in just the right spot.

But the ramp in Long Beach has a different angle and the boat needs no bump even with a full ballast!

The ramp at Dan Point is steep and the boat needs a bump no matter what's in the ballast.

Other ramps we have tried are all different - just when you think you have a procedure to eliminate the mac bump you run into a different ramp and your procedure does not work anymore.

For the most part I just carry a can of this stuff in the van now all the time ans the first thing I do after launching and parking the van and trailer before I go back to the boat to sail is spray it on the bunks so it can dry while I am out on the water:

I don't spray them every time - maybe every forth or fifth time.

RTCoastie any chance getting a picture of how you set up your winch? Much appreciated.

You can just use silicone spray too. Liquid Rollers is an expensive way to buy breast implant, condom lubricant, and French fry anti-splatter stuff......yuck. Yes, you eat liquid Rollers when you buy fast food...sort of.

Catigale wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 2:02 am You can just use silicone spray too. Liquid Rollers is an expensive way to buy breast implant, condom lubricant, and French fry anti-splatter stuff......yuck. Yes, you eat liquid Rollers when you buy fast food...sort of.

USE LIQUID ROLLERS!
IT'S NOT JUST A GREAT DESSERT TOPPING BUT ALSO A NON YELLOWING FLOOR WAX!

I like the idea of backing the trailer back into the drink after pulling out a few feet, and then recranking. I never thought of doing that.

Needing to do the MacGregor Bump has never been a challenge; this idea makes so much sense.