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I would like to protect the rudder from grounding by adding some kind of auto release on the rudder downhaul line. The lakes around here can get pretty shallow, and I don't have a depth gauge yet (winter project), and I stuck the rudder in the mud so bad that I couldn't untie the downhaul to the rudder, it was so tight I had to cut the rudder downhaul line. Then as I headed back to the marina the outboard propeller hit the rudder (another winter project). Then as I docked the boat the cut downhaul rope got wrapped up into the propeller shaft, just not my day!

I can find other posts, on this site, that have installed an auto release for the rudder by adding the CL257 clam cleat to the tiller for the rudder downhaul on the 26 models but not the M25. The rudder downhaul line, on my 1984 M25, runs thru a block at the bottom of the aluminum rudder post then attaches to a cleat on the side of the rudder post. I really can't run the downhaul line up the inside of the rudder post, then over the tiller, because of interference between the rudder blade and the rudder post, plus I would lose any leverage to pull the rudder into the down position, it's already hard to get the rudder to come down. I could install the clam cleat onto the rudder post next to the cleat that is already their but then it will be hard to see when it releases, as well as to set as compared to when the clam cleat is on the tiller. I'm thinking of adding a block to the end of the rudder to tiller pivot bolt, then running the line to an auto release clam cleat on the side of the tiller that the new block is on. Well, that's my plan but I'm open to any other plan, thanks! Also, I'm really pretty new to this forum, as well as a new to sailing, and have really enjoyed searching and reading all the post from all the members, and for the people that maintain all this info, thank you all!!!

If the cleat has a "hole" in the middle, maybe you can do like i do. Run the rudder line through the hole, then wrap a couple of turns around the cleat with the line allowing a loop. The wraps will create friction to hold it unless a strong force pulls on it and the line will pull through the hole.

I have a photo someplace. Gotta find it.

I wound up doing just as you suggest, with a block and a cam cleat on the tiller. Prior to that, however, I went for years with about a 1 foot long piece of 5/8" shock cord attached into the downhaul line. A slack part of the line allowed about 5" of stretch before hitting the limit and becoming straight. The shock cord was plenty firm to hold the rudder down, but would stretch enough before the rope caught to get me out of trouble when the rudder fit something solid.

I just wanted to share the end result. I used a block and a Camcleat Auto Release to lock the rudder in place. While I was at it I added a Tiller Tamer and a Ronstan Battlestick universal joint plus a good used walking stick for a tiller extension. Had the boat out on the Illinois river this weekend and everything worked great. Thanks for your all's help.