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Ok, just opened my X (prepping for the summer) and found that the usual Damp-Rid weren't put in before the winter.

Some condensation and some mold - looking for recommendations?

Usually a 10% bleach solution is sufficient to kill the mold. What doesn't wipe right off may need a product designed to remove mildew.

West Marine sells this one:

https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine- ... bab549f724

and it's on sale for $12 versus its usual $20.

Any kitchen bleach spray at dollar store

Yes, I use bathroom or kitchen cleaners containing bleach and that usually does the trick.

I plan to wipe everything down. I'm also concerned about moisture where I can't see/get to it.

Put a couple of "Damp Rid" inside to absorb water? Anything better?

Herschel wrote: ↑Sun Mar 03, 2024 7:57 pm Yes, I use bathroom or kitchen cleaners containing bleach and that usually does the trick.

It seems the areas I bleach tend to stay mold free longer than areas that I would wipe with nonbleacher products. I suspect their is some residual killing action or at least such sterilization it takes time to recolonize and proliferate.

Herschel wrote: ↑Sun Mar 03, 2024 7:57 pm Yes, I use bathroom or kitchen cleaners containing bleach and that usually does the trick.

+1
Make sure you the cabin is well ventilated.

From the EPA: Cleanup and Biocides Biocides are substances that can destroy
living organisms. The use of a chemical or biocide
that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for
example) is not recommended as a routine practice during
mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, when
professional judgment may indicate its use (for example,
when immune-compromised individuals are present).
In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize
an area; a background level of mold spores will remain
- these spores will not grow if the moisture problem
has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants or
biocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to
the outdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach solution with other
cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia
because toxic fumes could be produced.

Detergent solution is often the best approach as sometimes bleach can be worse for you than the mold you are trying to deal with. Lots of good information on mold clean up at the CDC and EPA websites.

Nice point. Thx

45Plus+ wrote: ↑Mon Mar 04, 2024 2:37 pm
Detergent solution is often the best approach as sometimes bleach can be worse for you than the mold you are trying to deal with. Lots of good information on mold clean up at the CDC and EPA websites.

45Plus+ wrote: ↑Mon Mar 04, 2024 2:37 pm From the EPA: Cleanup and Biocides Biocides are substances that can destroy
living organisms. The use of a chemical or biocide
that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for
example) is not recommended as a routine practice during
mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, when
professional judgment may indicate its use (for example,
when immune-compromised individuals are present).
In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize
an area; a background level of mold spores will remain
- these spores will not grow if the moisture problem
has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants or
biocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to
the outdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach solution with other
cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia
because toxic fumes could be produced.

Detergent solution is often the best approach as sometimes bleach can be worse for you than the mold you are trying to deal with. Lots of good information on mold clean up at the CDC and EPA websites.

You seem to be very knowledgeable about mold. I agree with the importance of identifying the source of the moisture, but for those of us with Mac's in the southeast, humidity is our main "moisture source". Could you be more specific about situations or scenarios in which using an off the shelf cleaner containing some bleach would be worse than the mold? Assuming good ventilation while using it, of course. What kind of MacGregor do you have, and how do you handle mold personally?

dlandersson wrote: ↑Mon Mar 04, 2024 5:13 am I plan to wipe everything down. I'm also concerned about moisture where I can't see/get to it.

Put a couple of "Damp Rid" inside to absorb water? Anything better?

Transferring what I have learned about mold in my career as a home inspector. Preface everything with the words "in most cases".

First of all, mold is a generic term for various microbial growths. Some are common and generally benign and some can have negative health effects on those with sensitivity to them. The spores they produce (and are what usually are the cause of mold-related health issues) are ubiquitous.

Molds need dark, cool, restricted airflow, and moisture to thrive. A boat in storage presents lots of opportunities. It needs these conditions for as little as a week to start growing, so if there were a way to open the boat up at least once a week that would help keep it down. Damp Rid is helpful, but without air flow it won't perform as well.

You are right to be concerned about areas you can't see or get to. Strategically placed small fans would be helpful in creating airflow in these areas. Something quiet and low-volume like a timer-controlled computer fan would do the trick.

Of course, removing things that retain moisture such as clothing or ropes from enclosed storage is important.

I found a good article on the subject at:
https://boatingbeast.com/boat-mold/

Let us know how it goes.

I'm with the EPA on not using chlorine bleach on mold. That's nasty stuff and it will eat your skin if you don't wear gloves. Straight bleach is 7.5% sodium hypochlorite. I'm talking about using a surface cleaner that includes bleach. If you make it following the CDC guidelines you will end up with a cleaner that is 0.16% sodium hypochlorite. You still need to keep the area ventilated but it's not like using chlorine bleach right out of the bottle.

It's a lot easier to prevent mold than it is to get rid of it. I've not found that products like "damp rid" are not effective where I live. The last time I tried it I just ended up with lots of little buckets of slimy liquid in a very short time. There is just too much humidity here to used a product like that on a regular basis. When the boat is parked in the yard I keep the companionway door open (weather permitting) and run the fans if it's really humid. Even so I'm going to eventually get some mold if the boat sits too long. When it does that's where the surface cleaner gets used.

Be Free wrote: ↑Tue Mar 05, 2024 8:44 am I've not found that products like "damp rid" are not effective where I live. The last time I tried it I just ended up with lots of little buckets of slimy liquid in a very short time.

We don't have as much humidity as Florida, but I have the same problem here in the Pacific Northwest. I bought this dehumidifier https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086Y ... UTF8&psc=1. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the catch tray and keep it in the sink. Even when my boat had 4 inches of water in the cabin, the walls were dry and the cushions didn't get moist.

Jeff

Thx

C Buchs wrote: ↑Tue Mar 05, 2024 9:13 am
We don't have as much humidity as Florida, but I have the same problem here in the Pacific Northwest. I bought this dehumidifier https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086Y ... UTF8&psc=1. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the catch tray and keep it in the sink. Even when my boat had 4 inches of water in the cabin, the walls were dry and the cushions didn't get moist.

Jeff

Be Free wrote: ↑Tue Mar 05, 2024 8:44 am I'm with the EPA on not using chlorine bleach on mold. That's nasty stuff and it will eat your skin if you don't wear gloves. Straight bleach is 7.5% sodium hypochlorite.

Agreed. Straight bleach is a bad idea. Diluted bleach (like 1 part bleach 9 parts water) is far less dangerous. Wear gloves and eye protection and have good ventilation, of course.