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Mooring tips

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:50 am
by ssichler
We are headed to Catalina this week for 5 days. Any special Mac tips for picking up a can? (we had process down on our heavier Catalina)

Does the dagger board makes less noise up or down? I noticed in pics from past Catalina trips some had their engines down and some where up. Would you keep the rudders up?

Thanks,
Scott
:macm:

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:00 pm
by ChrisNorton
I've moored in my 26x many times over in Oyster Bay, Long Island. Most moorings have a second small float with a rod you can easily grab. Attached to the small float is a large rope you tie off to. If no rod is present, then a boat hook is mandatory. I use two heavy dock lines with pre-spliced loops. I pass the loop through the mooring loop and the straight end of the dock line through it's own loop and then run down the rope so it locks onto the mooring loop. Then I simply secure the straight end to one of the cleats on the bow like I would if securing to a dock. I repeat this with a second dock line just for added security.

Couple of other pointers. Consider leaving a three foot section of genoa or jib unfurled (if you have a furler). It keeps the boat from spinning too much on the line.

To that end, I also leave the engine and rudders down to help to keep the boat from swinging too much.

I leave the keel up however as it bangs when it is down. Mine makes no noise when fully retracted.

Remember to conserve battery power as even running cabin lights for several hours can drain the batteries.

Also, wear gloves or try to avoid grabbing the mooring line with your bare hands as the ropes themselves are some crazy material that holds up to being submerged but feels like fiberglass if you grab it. Also, marine life grows on it and that can also sting you depending on what is growing and where you are.

Have fun,
Chris

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:38 pm
by Catigale
THis method is considered un-seamanlike by 'real sailors' and I post it here simply because it works, and works faster, safer than any other I have tried.

Put your seat up, back onto the mooring ball, and clip a good carabiner on a dock line on mooring ball, from the rear cleat.

Now bring your front line (already attached to your bow U bolt down low) back to the mooring ball, attach same, and cut your rear line free.

You can walk your front line up to the bow and cleat/secure as you see fit.

Ive singlehanded picked up moorings on the Cape in decent wind without any adrenalin rush with this method.

The problem with the traditional method is the Mac is such a light boat it quickly blows off the mooring unlike a keel boat, in short.

Seamanship?

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 2:30 pm
by Terry
Catigale wrote:
Now bring your front line (already attached to your bow U bolt down low) back to the mooring ball, attach same, and cut your rear line free.
You can walk your front line up to the bow and cleat/secure as you see fit.
Who cares if it is not 'Seamanship', what ever works.
The U bolt dow low you speak of, is that the one the trailer winch attaches too? I've never thought of it for mooring with but I will in future. Sounds like you attach to the u bolt with a carabiner then run the line through the buoy then back to a cleat, did I get it right? Sure sounds simple & easy, I am going to try it. 8)

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 2:45 pm
by Catigale
IF it works, indeed.... :D

THe trailer winch Ubolt is indeed what I use...I have a nylon anchor shock absorbing line that has metal rings on one end and a clip on the other that I attached to the mooring ball. I use a shackle to attach it to the UBolt before I approach the ball, or while my temporary dockline is in place.

Depending on conditions, I do a simple cleat, or make a three point connection from both bow cleats and the U bolt to connect.

Chafe is your enemy on a mooring ball, if the conditions are rough enough to worry about pulling cleats off, I will be onshore calling the insurance company about my boat already.


USe good quality carabiners or shackles for this one, not the key ring ones...I also safety them from undoing with a piece of heat shrink tubing so that they dont unclip easily.

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 3:45 pm
by ssichler
Thanks for the tips here. We are lucky that Catalina has good moorings with pick up sticks, we are unlucky in that Catalina is 20 or so miles from a population of 15 gazillion people. http://www.sailorschoice.com/catisland/ ... ooring.htm

So it's daggerboard up for a good night's sleep and engine/rudders down depending on conditions?

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 4:10 pm
by Catigale
IF there is decent swing space I drop a mud anchor off the stern (6 feet chain, 25 foot dockline) which stops the Mac Dance nicely on either anchor or mooring.

Cant use this if the spacing is tight and you need the swing on a wind shift to stay away from your mooring mates

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 2:05 am
by MAC26X
I'll second the method of backing up to the mooring. I have just attached a spare line to the ball and walked it to the bow and tied it off. I use a single line so we weathervane along with all the other boats. Centerboard up so it's quiet, rudders down to dampen movement. For casting off, reverse procedure.

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:36 am
by LOUIS B HOLUB
Only problem we've had during overnight stays on our Mac X is an occasional repeating "bubbling" sound that seems to be in the aft area of the ballast. It isnt too bothersome, or unusually loud...but I wish I could figure out where it comes from, or the cause.

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:44 am
by Catigale
CHapmans reports its considered poor form to put your motor up in a manner which might threaten a loose dinghy...Ive never agreed with this really (if your stuff gets loose, its your fault what happens to it) but OTTH its not called CATIGALES PILOTING AND SEAMANSHIP

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:55 am
by DLT
LOUIS B HOLUB wrote:Only problem we've had during overnight stays on our Mac X is an occasional repeating "bubbling" sound that seems to be in the aft area of the ballast. It isnt too bothersome, or unusually loud...but I wish I could figure out where it comes from, or the cause.
Fill the ballast tank. I'll bet you don't, normally, and this is water seeping in past the valve.

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 12:41 pm
by zuma hans 1
Catalina moorings use mooring cans and two hawsers. There is a diagram at http://www.visitcatalinaisland.com/aval ... ooring.php

>"When you arrive, use VHF Channel 12 to contact the Harbor Patrol, who will meet you just outside the mooring area to assign and possibly escort you to your spot. Mooring assignments are temporary and fees are based on mooring size and the length of your stay. All mooring fees are payable upon arrival.

Because Avalon Bay is a No-Discharge area, Harbor Patrol officials will ask you to drop a dye tab in your waste tank. If you do pump overboard, the water around your boat will change color and you will be fined and asked not to return for an entire year.

For more information, please contact the Avalon Harbor Department 310-510-0535.

MOORING USAGE
Use pole to attach Bow Hawser to Bow Cleat. (Hawser is located approximately six-feet below the surface of the water.)
Run Spreader Line to boat stern. (Spreader Line is attached to Bow Hawser.)
Remove slack from Spreader Line and attach Stern Hawser to Stern Cleat.
Re-check Bow and Stern Cleats to make sure you are moored securely. Drop slack Spreader Line into water.

Leaving a mooring
First untie the stern line, then the bow line (wind conditions may require this to be done in the reverse order). Drop them and the spreader line into the water.
To prevent fouling, allow time for lines to sink free and clear of your propeller. Double check that your propeller is clear f lines before proceeding.
If you believe you have fouled your propeller, please call the Harbor Patrol on VHF Channel 9 for assistance.
If you have not done so already, pay your mooring fees. An administration charge will be added to any fees not paid prior to departure.

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