26M wind indicator system

[baldbaby2000]

I posted a mod on my 26M wind indicator system. A little pricey but it works well.

http://www.macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin ... record=701

[nemo]

Clever. Nice work.

I just look at the water. If there's a few whitecaps I'm happy as a clam with full main and jib. More than that and I reef. Less than that and I power up the motor and attach a tow rope for some water toys. Not sure what I'd do with a more precise measurement of wind.

Please share how you make decisions based on the readings you get. thanks

[Richard O'Brien]

Awesome Mod Daniel If only I were an EE and could understand but, I'm still awed.

[baldbaby2000]

Please share how you make decisions based on the readings you get. thanks[/quote]

I guess it's my racing background and the fact that I'm a nerd who likes toys. It is useful for racing but definitely not a requirement. A few things I use it for: Before I put the sails up I look at the wind speed to decide whether to reef or not. When we're going offwind I can make the decision whether or not to reef before the upwind leg. Trying to reef while going upwind during a race is a disaster. It's easier to see how high I'm pointing and if I'm pointing efficiently (not pinching). I guess the most interesting thing I've learned is that the common belief that one should broad reach and tack instead of going wing to wing downwind is not necessary true with our boat (depends on the wind speed). This is apparent by looking at VMG. It also gives justification for some of my claims like motoring in 52 knots of wind with no ballast.

I still put the cassette tape on my shrouds and use this to augment that simple technology!

For most Mac sailors I wouldn't think it's needed considering the cost but I think my solution for the rotating mast sensor is relatively easy to do.

[baldbaby2000]

Awesome Mod Daniel If only I were an EE and could understand but, I'm still awed.

You don't have to be an EE Richard. It's just hooking up wires. The mechanical stuff like cutting holes in the boat is a more stressful than running wires. Anyone doing something like this should use shielded wires. Before I grounded the shield I had a lot of interference to the AM radio.

[RandyMoon]

Daniel, in the middle photo, there is a line coming back on the starboard side of the boom. Whatcha got going on there?

I really like your mod. I have toyed with the idea of mounting a plate on top of the mast with a bearing underneath, the plate teathered to the back of the boat with a backstay of sorts. The mast could turn and the plate (with a wind sensor attached) would remain stationary.

One thing I have done that might humor some sailors is mount a windex on my hatch while sailing. I usually sail with the bimini up and I got tired of twisting around trying to see the windex on the mast or getting blinded by the sun. With a windex on the hatch, I can see the tacking tabs and it appears to be just as accurate as the one on the mast. Plus when sailing at night, it is easy to see the wind direction.

[baldbaby2000]

Daniel, in the middle photo, there is a line coming back on the starboard side of the boom. Whatcha got going on there?

Hi Randy. You must be talking about my single line reefing. That goes to my deep reef. It works OK but I still have to go forward to take some slugs out of the mast. I also have a shallower reef where the tack grommet goes to a hook on the gooseneck bracket; I use the outhaul on the clew.

I've thought of doing something like you suggested on the top of the mast. It would be cheaper but this way is more accurate.

I understand having the windex on the hatch with the bimini up. That is another reason I put this system in. With the bimini up it's hard to see wind indicators even with the windows I have in the bimini.

[nemo]

Fun stuff - I have to admit I'm a toy guy too. I don't think I'll do this mod but I can see how it would be cool to know the wind speed. I often wonder how accurate my calibration (just looking at conditions) is.

So at what wind speed do you put your first reef in the main?

[delevi]

Daniel,

How do you like your single-line reefing? I am thinking about setting that up.. just have jiffy reefing now and have to drop slugs, but when I get new sails I want to have a setup where I can fully reef from the cockpit. I read an article by Pineaplple Sails, posted on this board, I believe by Frank C, saying that single line reefing, in short is not the best way to go. I know BWY has a system which they claim is quite effective. How do you like your setup?

Leon

[KayakDan]

Delevi,I have a BWY single line system on my M also. It's a nice rig,works well,but I am going to cut off the bridge section of the clam cleat. I found that the reefing line has a tendency to lock in when we are raising the main. Other than that,it's pretty good. One disclaimer here- we ended up changing the actual reefing line provided by BWY,as we had a bit of "miscalculation" during the first use.
Any good ideas on what to do with all that slack line when it's reefed?

[tlperrine]

Kayak Dan, I too have the BWY reefing system. I used to just wrap the excess around the end of the boom, but wasn't happy with that solution. This year the mod was to run new line the opposite way and down the mast through a couple of blocks and then aft to the cockpit. I am much happier with this setup. It also means I can reef without the boom being centered over the pedestal. If you need pictures, I will take some next time I am at the marina, Terry

[Frank C]

Kayak Dan, I too have the BWY reefing system. I . . . This year the mod was to run new line the opposite way and down the mast through a couple of blocks and then aft to the cockpit.
Terry

Terry's solution sounds good. The problem with reefing lines "on the boom" is where to stow all that spaghetti. After it is led to the deck, at least Terry can lead the surplus down the companionway to help keep the cockpit clear.

I paid extra for the dealer's "single line reefing" option, but promptly ripped it all off the boom, just because the mess of lines was unmanageable (plus the fact that it never worked very well, either.) As Leon mentioned above, I'm a proponent of Pineapple's head sailmaker, who recommends 2-point reefing. The training boats I sailed this summer were all rigged this way ... first reef the luff cringle, then re-hoist the halyard, then reef the clew. Easy as apple pie during a heave-to.

[delevi]

I just installed single line reefing after work today. I figure if I don't like it, I can snip the line, install another block & cleat and have 2-line reefing. While I was at it, I installed a real outhaul. All blocks, clam cleats & 1/4" line $105 at West Marine. As for the spagheti, with a clam cleat on the boom, the stock cleat for the outhaul can be used to hang the line if it is tidied up. At least that's what I'm planning to do.

[Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL]

I'm a proponent of Pineapple's head sailmaker, who recommends 2-point reefing.

Can you post a link to it. I prefer the 2-point to the single line reefing system. They may have a better idea than mine.

I use cassette tape on the shrouds as a wind indicator.

[Frank C]

Pineapple's head Sailmaker has written a few "articles" about his trade. He's a local SF sailmaker near Arena's original brokerage, so Gene used him for adding luff tapes, slugs and reefing points. I don't think you'll find a specific example of a 2-pt reefing rig. He's just describing the reasons that he advises avoiding the single line system - friction and timing of the luff tension.

This links to his Articles page. Click on the Reefing link under Mainsails ... or any other link that seems interesting.