04 26m trailer brakes

[Paul S]

Been noticing the brakes on the trailer are not performing as well as they used to when it was new.

Took a look at the rotors..they are pretty rusted..not the end of the world...so played with the brakes a bit today.

I used to try and backup..and the trailer wouldn't budge...period..now it reverses easily... I engaged the brake and I could still turn the wheel. but could feel resistance...so i know they are working.just not well...

Is there any common issue/tricks/tips to playing with trailer brakes...I have a clue how brakes work ... but anything specific to trailer disk brakes?

Paul

[Terry]

My 03M trailer brakes were pretyy worn from my first two seasons of trailering. It was a bit of a challenge to find replacement pads but I did find them and replaced the worn ones and they worked just fine. I tried sandpaper to remove the rust off the rotors but it just returned over time so I no longer worry about it. It is not that difficult to do, even for someone as mechanically un-inclined as me. I still have the four wire harness with surge brakes, but I hear the 04 & newer have 5 wires for electric brakes.

[Paul S]

My 03M trailer brakes were pretyy worn from my first two seasons of trailering. It was a bit of a challenge to find replacement pads but I did find them and replaced the worn ones and they worked just fine. I tried sandpaper to remove the rust off the rotors but it just returned over time so I no longer worry about it. It is not that difficult to do, even for someone as mechanically un-inclined as me. I still have the four wire harness with surge brakes, but I hear the 04 & newer have 5 wires for electric brakes.

I believe the manual says the pads are from a kia? where did you find the brakes pads. I might want to replace the rotors as well..as they are pretty bad too.

the flat 5 does work well. But with having crappy brakes now, it doesnt make a lot of difference. When working well, it is hard, if not impossible, to backup with the disk brakes.

Paul

[Terry]

Brake pads from Lordco Auto parts B.C. Canada. There may be a part number on the box at home but I am not there right now.

[Harrison]

From what I know, there are no electric brakes on the recent trailers from Macgregor. I own an 05 and the only electric anything I have regarding the brakes is the lights, and the brake disconnect for reversing. The braking system is still hydraulic, activated by the pressure on the tongue MC, created by the tow vehicle slowing down and the mass of the load wanting to come forward.

My system uses the 5 inline wire connector. The 5th wire is activated by the reversing signal from the tow vehicle. This turns off the braking system to allow the trailer to be reversed uphill, or under circumstances that may otherwise cause the MC to be engaged.

---Harrison

[Paul S]

From what I know, there are no electric brakes on the recent trailers from Macgregor. I own an 05 and the only electric anything I have regarding the brakes is the lights, and the brake disconnect for reversing. The braking system is still hydraulic, activated by the pressure on the tongue MC, created by the tow vehicle slowing down and the mass of the load wanting to come forward.

My system uses the 5 inline wire connector. The 5th wire is activated by the reversing signal from the tow vehicle. This turns off the braking system to allow the trailer to be reversed uphill, or under circumstances that may otherwise cause the MC to be engaged.

---Harrison

Would have been nice to have electric brakes..they are a lot more reliable now.. I think he meant the backup reversing lockout...at least that is how i took it

Paul

[Frank C]

You can't dunk electric brakes. They're used on travel trailers, horse trailers, etc. but not boat trailers. You can buy a hybrid system, electric-over-hydraulic - look on Champion's website for one example. They use an electric controller (mounted inside the tow vehicle) to actuate a dunkable hydraulic system. Unfortunately, that solution adds about a full boatbuck to the basic cost of the hydraulics. Does your brake actuator look like this?



If so, it's the model A-60 actuator, made by UFP. Check this earlier thread (under Trailers & Towing) for a link to UFP's website, where you can download a PDF user guide on the actuator.

Not sure which disc brakes Roger is installing but the earlier drum brakes were made by Titan. I installed brakes by Kodiak, following a lead from Robert on this website. They are silver-cadmium coated with stainless components in the caliper. So far, so good!

FWIW, a Moderator will probably move this thread to Trailers forum.

[Paul S]

I was thinking about this article I read in boatus about electric brakes. They are now being used on boat trailers as well.. Can't say I have seen them, but it appears their day is coming to be more mainstream

http://www.boatus.com/trailerclub/upkee ... brakes.asp

[Paul S]

That appears to be my actuator.. apparently it is working.. somewhat anyway...We have used the trailer a lot...so I will try replacing the pads (and maybe rotors) before tackling the hydraulic system.

Paul

[Paul S]

ok got out the manuals that came with the boat trailler..

Apparently I have (I assume most M owners will have also):

A60 Actuator,

DB35 disc brakes

Trailer Buddy axle pressurized bearings

In the manual, it states that the 'pads, pistons, and dust boots' are from a 97-00 Kia Sephia.

It doesnt say anything about the rotors. But apparently the rotors have built in hubs, so the entire thing will have to be broken down (bearings removed, protectors, etc) and moved over to the new rotors. They don't mention the car rotor that works on the trailer (about $75 each from a dealer). Not sure if the kia rotors will work.

When I get it apart I will see if I can just replace the pads only..but if the rotors are as bad as I think, they may have to go....

When I get this apart...I will take lots of pics and make a FAQ page about it... I am sure it will come in handy in the future for other owners

Paul

[Paul S]

ok.. got some more information..

Found this trailer dealer online. I called them up and they were quite helpful. The prices were also pretty reasonable.
http://www.waymires.com/home.htm

PDF of their online catalog:
http://www.waymires.com/newcatatest/cat ... /home.html

I did not verify this information, but this is what they told me we have on the Mac M trailer:

DB35 brakes:
Pads: 31766UK $26/set (2 required per axle)
Rotors: 41041U $55 each (2 required per axle)
Seals: 32373U or 07028
Bearings: L44649 and L68149

** Update - these part numbers are wrong. I contacted UFP after they didnt fit. They gave me the correct #:
rotors-36162
seals - 32372
Pads are correct
One bearing # is correct, the other is wrong. Not sure which. The rear bearing does fit. Front doesnt
***

They said the system was easy to work on, and this is a very good quality system.

I'll update when I get it apart.



Paul

[DLT]

Can anyone verify these part numbers?

I'd like to redo the bearings on my trailer...

Thanks!

P.S. Not doubting you Paul, its just that you specifically say you haven't verified, so...

[Paul S]

I cant imagine that the bearing need replacing..the pressurized system (from what I hear) works well. Then again, I didn't change or even check, the bearings on our old powerboat trailer for like 8 years!! Just greased them. LOL

I believe the # are right..but can't be 100% sure as I have not actually installed them.

With even the oldest M trailer..I doubt a lot of members have changed the bearings

Paul

[Paul S]

OK took it apart yesterday...well one wheel.

The lugnuts were rusted on BAD. I needed some penetrating oil and my propane torch to get the lugnuts off..got 3 off..broke 2 studs.

I will tackle the other side today or tomorrow.

The rotors are in bad shape..rusted bad. Not terribly worn, but badly corroded. The pads were down to a couple mm or so..they need to go. So I need rotors and pads (and seals) for sure.

But I think the problem was the Master Cyl ran dry..well almost.. but surely sucking air. I did a half-assed bleed of the system, and I got it to work. The fluid coming out was DIRTY/RUSTY. I STRONLY recommend changing the brake fluid out on your trailer..You don't want to get into replacing brake lines and Master cyl and stuff..not that it is the end of the world..but if you can avoid it..do it.

Not just not sure WHY the Master was almost out of fluid...Either it was the reaction of pad use...or a leak somewhere..but I don't see any leaks, even when I compress the master to engage/test the brakes.

What have I learned (I REALLY should know better just the same):

• Remove and replace your lugnuts on a regular basis. I like to lube the threads with oil. Some people don't. Your call. But get them off..you don't want to be on the side of the road with 5 broken lugs
  
  Check your brake fluid more often. Although it is not consumed, it does go low when the brake pads are worn.

So I will be ordering new rotors, pads, seals to get the system back in shape...will do a better bleed of the system too. I will report back when it is done (probably a few weeks)

Paul

[Catigale]

Paul - I think you are almost all salt water use arent you??....sigh...another wonderful benefit of fresh....

Good luck on those brakes and thanks again for the fun trip past week...