MacGregorSailors.com

Hi All,

I didn't really intend to post this one, but when I was done sketching, I thought it was pretty cool and I wanted your feedback.

There are many, many great mods on this sight that I fully intend to steal when the day comes . But I also find myself drooling over the interiors of expensive cruisers, wondering what kinds of things can be done to the Mac to make it even more awesome. It's not entirely futile - if you look back and forth between pics of $500,000 yachts and the Mac, you can come up with some very cool ideas.

This mod is a new bulkhead separating the rear berth from the salon. I'm considering keeping an eye out for a 03/04 model 26M (with the forward galley), so I wouldn't have to work around the sliding galley of the newer models. It always seemed a little awkward to enter the berth on either side of the ladder, especially when there is premium bulkhead space there. I thought that if the ladder was fastened on one side (here to starboard), it could swing open and snap in on the other. The current ladder could be modified to do the job, or a new ladder could be built. It could easily be done in a way so as not to comprise safety or rigidity.

Here's a pic....(note that the ladder is removed - I couldn't draw it right )



It looks complicated I know - but it's really not. It's two pieces plywood with trim and a bunch of surface-mounted detaily stuff. There is lots of templating to do though, to get it to fit. Also, I don't know if the stuff I drew is what I would really want, but hopefully it shows what the possibilities could be. The louvered doors aren't really a fleshed out cupboard - just a facade for the space behind, which would include a bottom for holding PFD's, etc. I added drink-holders, magazine racks, a radio (drawn too small) and small planters for fake ivy (ai yai yai ).

I would want to keep it light, and would probably just use 3/8" plywood with a nice hardwood veneer. Strength would come from shallow shelving on the other side (2"-3" deep for clocks, books, bedstand items, etc.)

Anyway, I was happy with the sketch, so I thought I'd post it. Would be a fun boat-wood-working project, with a pretty big bang for the buck if I may say so . Apologies if someone has posted this kind of thing here already.

Please let me know if you build one

Cheers!

~ Bob

Very, very slick, Bob, and a great idea!

I wonder how that would look in an X.... hmm.....

Looks great and you are definately much more the artist than I...

But, the stairs/ladder is going to be the problem, as its fixed. You'd have to make it removable or something.

I think someone has done something with the ladder. The biggest issue that was raised with their mod, I believe, was support for the cockpit. Your bulkhead would likely resolve that issue nicely...

I like it...

Thanks guys!

Yeah, I thought about the ladder thing quite a bit. It stays fixed on the one side at all times and rotates in a bearing/flange sort-of-thing - so it always supports the companionway area. When the other side is snapped in, it's also wedged into an upper/lower bracket that supports the companionway on that side as well - (and like you said, DLT, the bulkhead itself is there). I made a feeble attempt to draw the attachments, but it's not really right. Kinda fun, though.


~Bob

Wow!, thats a really cool drawing. I have an X so the head is on SB but none the less and interesting concept.

If any thing this makes me think about the companion way steps. We use a bungee to hold them up when we need to access the rear berth (attic). But I like the idea of being able to remove it at anchor.

later...
Hawg

Currie wrote:I'm considering keeping an eye out for a 03/04 model 26M (with the forward galley), so I wouldn't have to work around the sliding galley of the newer models.

Just wanted to note that I pretty much leave my sliding galley in the fully forward position, all the time. This configuration is similar to the X, except for the dinette and head locations being swapped... It even has a seat, right there between the galley and the aft berth. With your bulkhead, it could still move half way back. So, there would only be

The biggest problem I see with your bulkhead is that the opening you show is not going to be very big to get into and out of the aft berth. I might prefer to setup the ladder, with a "door/hatch" behind it, such that the ladder and door rotate as one, opening from the port, swinging to starboard. Then, have some kind of opening on the port side as well...

When you get your bearing thing worked out, please do share...

DLT wrote:The biggest problem I see with your bulkhead is that the opening you show is not going to be very big to get into and out of the aft berth.

Yeah, a 24" doorway would be nice, I think there's room to widen it.

DLT wrote:I might prefer to setup the ladder, with a "door/hatch" behind it, such that the ladder and door rotate as one, opening from the port, swinging to starboard. Then, have some kind of opening on the port side as well...

Interesting and I'm sure one could do it. In my mind I was picturing the view thru the doorway - I like seeing the depth of the whole cabin. For me, maybe I'd add a curtain for privacy, when needed.

DLT wrote:When you get your bearing thing worked out, please do share...

Will do. Also, I just realized I pulled a bit of an M.C. Escher with the drawing. There is really about 6" difference between top and bottom (the top being further aft). It's required to make the ladder work at the right angle. But I also don't want to lose 6" of berth length. The carpentry just got a little bit more involved, but I think the results even cooler! The "jag" makes the mantle area deeper and gives the doorway a really cool, classic (and classy) companionway look, with its inset archway.

Cheers!

~Bob

It looks very nice Bob. Be careful to ensure that the companion way has adequate support. The stock ladder configuration provides that support.

looks nice. But remember the hull has flex (as in at a dock). If the fiberglass hull flexes near the wood..and it is ridgid..it will probably crack. Leave a gap with something flexible in it.

Very good point Paul. Any thoughts on what material and how thick? A stiff foam of some type I would guess. One should also make the wood edges fairly wide where it meets the hull to ditribute pressure better.

~ Bob

Perhaps an M owner can comment, but I've read posts here stating that the ladder is a structural component that carries a load from the deck. Make sure removing it doesn't compromise the structure.

At night we turn our X into, as we say with tounge in cheek, 'a four stateroom boat'. We use a fabric divider panel at the compression post and aft berth. We keep clothes duffel bags down the center of the aft berth. This creates a bow cabin for my wife and I, a private aft stateroom on each side of the aft berth, and leaves the spacious covered cockpit (Dowsar full enclosure) for our third son.





Note this panel below now hangs further aft right at the compression post. We extend the port side of the vee berth to be the same length as the starboard side with the seat back removed giving a much more spacious berth yet still allowing room to stand and dress behind the screen in the forward stateroom.

Hi Duane,

In my config, the ladder doesn't come out (although it's missing from the pic). It stays locked in on one side at all times, and is still rigid on both sides, except when entering/exiting the Master's Stateroom (oooh I like the sound of that ). The area around the ladder can be easily reinforced vertically if one wants a removable ladder.

~ Bob

Here's an idea I just had for the ladder issue.

1. Cut through the starboard vertical tube above the top step, about 1-2 inches below where it bends aftwards.

2. Cut through it again, just below the bottom step.

3. Remove the ladder. On the port side, you'll have to unbolt it.

4. Find a stainless steel tube that will just fit within the starboard vertical tube you just cut.

5. Cut the stainless tube to length, such that it will extend from the battery box to the companion way, into the sections of the starboard vertical tube that remain there.

6. Reassemble the ladder, such that it rotates about this added stainless tube, which is secured to the sections of the starboard vertical tube that your cut away from the ladder (above the top step and below the bottom step) thereby providing support for the companionway.

Without bolting the port side back up, this would only give you support on the starboard side. That's better than nothing. You might also be able to figure out a way to get them back into the equation...

No complicated bearings needed...

Nice DLT,

That's not far off from what I was thinking. I'm using the term "bearing" to mean the simple tube-in-sleeve type like what you're describing. In any case, the trick is to have any bearing points rotate around a dotted line from one fastened end to the other (or only in a straight piece of tubing). IOW - if the sleeve at the bottom is straight with the rail tubing, the top sleeve best be on the straight-tube before it makes the turn to the fastener - otherwise it will twist and tear at the bottom. Sounds like that's what you mean, too.

I was thinking of adding a second set of rail-tubing, straight ones, under/behind the factory set (forming triangles with the existing ones). They would slip into sleeves at each end. The trick on the latching side is to wedge the closed rail between two flanges mounted on the fiber-glass. Some sort of clasp would hold it in place. That's about where it's at for now. Thanks!

~ Bob

I love the look of your mod, I was thinking of something similiar for the 26M - but for the V-Berth area. The wasted space opposite the head was going to be a target (who wants to sit opposite the portapotti?). About the same size as the head compartment, with a handbasin and some cupboards (maybe a mirror for the girls).

I willhave to work on my drawing skills to knock up an artist impression (will not be as good as yours).

As for the ladder - while it may function as a structual member, i am sure that you could make a suitably prestressed cantilever version to do the same job.

Cheers
RockMan