MacGregorSailors.com

Searching the postings for HDPE seems to turn up that cutting boards are a cheaper, easier to find alternative for all but UV intolerant applications. My question(s) are for those who have experimented with it – what glue seems to hold the best, what cutting method gave the cleanest edge, was there any particular difficulty working with it?

I am also wondering if anyone has experimented with bending stainless tubing and achieved any success using commercial electrical conduit tools.

Should be picking up my M any day and am starting to get antsy about getting it into the water but need to do some minor customizing and mounting of “stuff”.

You can try Poly-Bonder... or... you can try Loctite 3030 (Loctite link is to a PDF file).



As to the stainless tubing, if you're talking 1" or 1¼" tubing as found on pedestal guards or railings, unless you're doing loads of bends, why not just see if your local muffler shop can do a quick few bends on their tubing bender? If you're doing several, most tool rental shops have tubing benders for rent at a reasonable price. It doesn't really pay to buy a good one, and a cheap one won't do the job.

I have been doing some ss pipe bending with an pumbing/electrical pipe bender you have to go slow as not to dent the pipe depends on how much you have to bend & just depends on how fussy you are I just made a pedestal guard for $60. was quoted $460. to make have yet to post a pic and the ss steel pipe fitters are asking about $20. a bend if you take in your own ss pipe the ss pipe is about $60. a 6ft length I was able to p/u some for about $15. a length you can see my bow rail extension I also made for my bowsprit
john

Thanks guys,
I had a feeling the cost of the ss was in the having it done. I will have to try and source a supplier who deals in small lots at reasonable pricing.

I am still not sure on the HDPE, just have to experiment I guess, on the best blade to cut the poly with, fine tooth, cross cut, - saber saw with wood or metal blades, router to put on an edge? Can I push it to fast, overheat and melt the cut down?

A long long time ago, I worked on a CNC milling center, oh would I love to have one of those in the basement now.
Ron

One other trick on bending pipe.... pack it tightly with wet sand before you bend it. Yeah, really. The packed sand will keep the pipe from collapsing at the bend.

I use cutting boards for all shelving that is going to be out of sight, like in the head and under the seats. If you go to Sam's you can get a commercial Rubbermaid cutting board for $10 that is 15" by 20" and that is the largest that I've been able to find. I use one full one for the forward berth extension and don't even have to put a leg under it (I raised the port seat by 4").
Ned

PE cuts much like soft wood....wood band saw does fine, hand saw, sabre saw etc. Doesn't retro-melt like ABS. The stuff doesn't glue well, but holds a SS sheet metal or wood screw pretty well...or SS machine screw bolts w/locknuts. Actually, a good medium for marine applications in my opinion. Jack

I cut the plastic board with a fine tooth sabre saw on low speed to avoid melting, then finish off with an orbital sander or a disk sanding table and medium grit. I don't use glue, just double up on the number of screws. One edit: Instructions that came with my Starboard say do not use any type of glues, only mechanical fasterners.

I bend stainless and aluminum tubing up to one inch using only the fork between two tree trunks in my back yard. Several pulpits, pushpits and biminis have sprung from this natural bending method. Trunk diameters about 12 to 14 inches. I don't use sand for most bends of 45 to 60 degrees. I do use wet sand packing for anything more just make sure I don't collapse the pipe. I now have a one inch manual conduit bender I have yet to try on stainless, but will soon when I design and make a bimini for my X. I will line it or the tubing with tape to avoid scratches on the finish of the stainless.

Sounds great Ray, can't wait to see that Mod.

G

kmclemore wrote:One other trick on bending pipe.... pack it tightly with wet sand before you bend it. Yeah, really. The packed sand will keep the pipe from collapsing at the bend.

KM You out did me. I was just going to suggest the same thing.

Albion

With KM, you get used to it.

The man is a virtual fountain of information on good tips and tricks to ge the job done, and done right.

G

Thanks again for all this, I do not have a handy forked tree but I do think that a substantial device - like the odd tire rim bolted down, a couple of oak logs 8-12 inches in diameter, maybe smaller with some scrap 4x4s for bracing, and hard copper scrap to practice with should make for rainy day project.

With KM, you get used to it.

Maybe, but jmc posted that he isnt much of a wood worker.....

Someday I am going to have to Amble down to PA to meet this amazing guy and is family....

If you go to Sam's you can get a commercial Rubbermaid cutting board for $10 that is 15" by 20" and that is the largest that I've been able to find.

Don't limit yourself to dinky cutting board sizes. I found HDPE sheets off the shelf at MSC (an industrial supply house) ranging from 1/16 x 12 x 12" for $2.05 up to 1 x 48 x 96" for $260 and everything in between.

If you don't have access to an industrial supply house, look it up in the yellow pages under Plastics-suppliers.

Catigale wrote:

With KM, you get used to it.

Maybe, but jmc posted that he isnt much of a wood worker.....

Someday I am going to have to Amble down to PA to meet this amazing guy and is family....

Do tell!

Cold beer in the fridge when you get here, Steph!