ELECTRICAL PROBLEM?

[KEVIN'S OWN]

This is our second season and thought things would get easier - guess not. We charged up the batteries, installed them following the directions from the people who installed the Suzuki engine, checked and changed the fuses in the stock panel for running lights etc., and still nothing is working. Does anyone have any thoughts on what could possibly be wrong?

[Compromise]

Kevin,

Nothing is working as in- no power? Or nothing is working as in- the engine turns over but won't start?

[KEVIN'S OWN]

Nothing is working at all, can't raise the engine, the red lights do not come on when you flip the switch at the control panel (for the lights) yet there is power in the batteries.

[Frank C]

Sometimes there's a master fuse in-line to the engine, called a fusible link. If you have power at the battery, yet you can't read any power at the outboard, it's a good bet that you need to search around for that link. You could phone your Suzi installer and ask if they usually install a FL, and where(?).

Fusible links act as high-current fuses by protecting their circuits from excessive current draw. The capacity of fusible links is usually 30 amps or more-somewhat higher than that of standard fuses. When a fusible link blows, it means that its current-carrying capacity was exceeded and the heat across the link’s conductor caused the link to melt and open the circuit.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

pull engine cover. see if you have power at the battery connection inside engine compartment.
if so, then there may be a blown fuse that over-rides everthing within the engine.
probably something very simple that's being overlooked.

Bob T.
"DāBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki

[bastonjock]

as the other guys have said,check to see if you are getting power at the motor,try using a 12v bulb as this will discount any false readings,other possibilitys are that a cable inside the fuse panel may have fallen out.

im not familiar with the particular panel,but if there is power at the fuse with the link out and the fuses are okay then check the cables leaving the fuse holder,give them a wiggle with the fuse out,check to see if the clamping screw is clamping on the copper wire and not the insulation.

digital meters can give false readings,so double check it with a12v bulb acros the positive and negative terminals.

or if you have one of those jump start packs try turning the motor with that

[KEVIN'S OWN]

Appreciate the suggestions, we are heading back to the boat yard now.

But there is no power to the switch panel inside the boat - we can't turn on any lights and we've replaced the fuses in the panel. The fuse in the battery compartment looked OK.

It's got to be something simple (hopefully) but boy what a pain in the ...

[Boblee]

Check for power at the actual battery terminals and then the wiring at the connections, could just be a dirty terminal if not work from where you do have power.

[James V]

Done this before, wires reveresed somewhere?

[Hardcrab]

After more than 30 years in the aircraft electrical/electronic technician field, there is one rock solid "truism" I have learned.
"The grosser the failure, the easier the fix".
You said batteries. That implies two. Do you have a battery selector switch somewhere unknown to you? The "1" - "2" - "BOTH / ALL" - "OFF" Perko red switch. Could be in the "OFF" position!
Physically trace the big wires coming off of the batteries. If there is a selector switch, that is where the wires will go. Or, trace the big wires from the motor back to either the battery or the switch. Your engine symptoms and your house power symptoms indicate you need to get closer to the source power to find the problem because they don't have anything else in common with each other.
If not a selector switch, then extreeeemly corroded battery posts and/or terminals is possible. How are the battery terminal ends put on the big wire ends? I've seen the copper wire completly corrode out of the terminals inside of the insulation before and I've seen where someone once put an aftermarket repair terminal on the big red wire in a car. He just clamped the terminal right on the wire--- insulation and all! Never bothered to strip it first. Didn't know why nothing worked! Both examples are probally a strech in this case, but the symptoms are exactly the same. Think simple. The answer will be.
Good Luck.
Post any new developments.

[KEVIN'S OWN]

Well we returned from the boat yard with all the lights working - as you all have mentioned - it was a very simple solution - the blue wire for the control panel was connected to the wrong terminal. Next year I'm going to make a clear diagram of where everything is supposed to go (should have done it last year as the admiral reminded me).

We still have not been able to get the engine working and now I'm thinking that there may be a "surge protector" which is preventing it from receiving juice. Will call the Suzuki dealer - hopefully there is someone there - otherwise will check on line for an override switch, or there might be something in the manual.

[KEVIN'S OWN]

FINALLY!! Everything is working, turns out it was the fuse in the engine. Must have blown when we first tried to hook up the batteries and start everything. The manufacturer (Suzuki) puts a spare right in the engine - for safety sake!

[Catigale]

....for which you have already gone out and bought a replacement, correct??

[kmclemore]

....for which you have already gone out and bought a replacement, correct??

Naahh.. Just pop a nail in that fuse holder... that sucker will never blow.

[DLT]

Or my personal favorite: a pistol cartridge...