Boom Vang on the "M"

Tom Spohn · Post by **Tom Spohn** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 1:43 pm

Just recently took delivery of our new M and so far have been pleased with it. We configured it "with all lines led aft" which was how we had our X and found it very convenient. Problem is that on the M, when the vang is tightened down the aft side of the mast is pivoted to starboard where the blocks and clutches are located. So far, my only solution is to install the vang per the owners manual and not run the lines aft. And yes, with the traveler it does not seem to be as necessary as it was on our X.

Does anybody have any trick ideas on how to deploy the vang on the M?

craiglaforce · Post by **craiglaforce** » Wed Aug 18, 2004 5:03 pm

I don't have an M but if it was me I would just run the vang to the base of the mast and omit running the line aft.

On my X, I put the fiddle block with the cleat jaws at the top so it is easy to reach by standing with one foot on the back of the dinette seat and one on the companionway step. I only adjust it a few times per sail, so this does not represent any appreciable effort.

If your main halyard is not led aft yet, maybe you could use the blocks thus vacated for the halyard to apply more tension with the winch if needed.

Hows the M sail compared to the X? Can you tell if the rotating mast does much to improve performance?

Tom Spohn · Post by **Tom Spohn** » Wed Aug 18, 2004 9:03 pm

Thanks, Craig,
I reversed the setup today with the fiddle block at the top and the line just coiled on the boom. I didn't have time to sail her so that will have to wait for another day.

I have owned both an X and now the M. I have not sailed the M in very strong winds yet--so far below 5 knots. My reaction is:
1. The M has a jib rather than the Genny the X had. The jib is way easier to handle. I have not needed the winch handle at all. On my X, much fine tuning required the winch in any wind beyond a whisper.
2. The M will balance without a headsail. The X needs the Genny to get going.
3. The M wake is quieter and less turbulent--maybe the rounder bottom is working. The rotating mast works as advertised and it is a great conversation starter with other sailors, but I really can't say if it makes a difference or not. Perhaps in more wind the difference will show up.
4. The M points better, but I really believe most of the difference is the jib vs. the Genny.
5. The M is initially more tender, but it hardens up very quickly. When under way the amount of lean seems to be about the same.
6. During the BWY rendezvous this year we had lots of M's, X's, Classics and one M19 all running around a course against the clock. I believe the results depended more on the skill of the sailor rather than the boat. Although every year the best time seems to be an elderly guy with a well kept classic!
7. Oh Yeah--I almost forgot. On my X I left the engine and rudders always connected as the Nissan 50 didn't weigh very much. On my M the 70 Suzuki definitely needs to be disconnected when sailing.

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Sat Aug 21, 2004 12:26 pm

Tom Spohn wrote:.... I have owned both an X and now the M.
.... On my X I left the engine and rudders always connected as the Nissan 50 didn't weigh very much. On my M the 70 Suzuki definitely needs to be disconnected when sailing.

Tom,
My Suzi 60 can be left attached to the rudder linkage for sailing. I have sometimes disconnected it and found the steering a little lighter for sailing, but it's always a hassle, so I usually don't bother.

- It takes time to disconnect
- it's usually uncomfortable, hanging over the stern, bobbing about in Bay chop
- takes more time to reconnect for going home
- leaves you with less maneuverability if you need the motor mid-day

I can't explain why the outboard has so little effect on my steering linkage. It just doesn't flop around the way you'd expect. Yet, it also doesn't add significantly to the steering effort either. This difference (X to M linkage) might be due to either of two reasons, the linkage design or link friction at the outboard. I haven't seen the M-style linkage.

Sounds as if your idea for the difference was simply the outboard's weight? Are you pleased with the Suzuki on the M?

Duane Dunn, Allegro · Post by **Duane Dunn, Allegro** » Sat Aug 21, 2004 2:31 pm

Sounds like you don't have the quick disconnect that Bluewater puts on their boats like I'm sure Tom does. You just slide back the fitting, lift it off the rudder pin and place it on the fixed pin, then side the fitting closed. Takes about 5 seconds to change over once you flip the seat up.

When on the fixed pin the motor is locked straight ahead and you can still use it like a single screw boat by steering with the rudders. They have been putting this system on the X for years and have adapted it to the M now.

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Sat Aug 21, 2004 3:21 pm

I've never seen that fitting, but I've pondered trying to create one. Got a picture of it?

Tom Spohn · Post by **Tom Spohn** » Sat Aug 21, 2004 8:05 pm

Duane and Frank C.
I do have the quick release from Bluewater. The steering is not a problem when the boat is standing upright, but it gets quite heavy when the boat is heeled. I usually don't have a problem with it but the Admiral complains it is too hard to make fine adjustments while sailing.

I think the Suzi 70 is just awesome! I am completely pleased with it. I liked the performance of the Nissan 50 on our X, but the noise at high speed was so great we purposely ran the boat slower just to escape the noise. Not so with the Suzi. It starts instantly, is very quiet, and is the right power for the M.

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Sat Aug 21, 2004 11:47 pm

Yep, the Suzukis are awesome.
Sounds like I'll need to add a quick release to my steering.

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa · Post by **Dimitri-2000X-Tampa** » Sun Aug 22, 2004 5:34 am

Frank, maybe you never grease your outboard steering hinge?

Seriously, when I bought my boat last summer, I don't think it had ever been lubed (judging by the amount of water which came out of the grease fittings). Prior to my re-lube, the motor had plenty of friction so it would never "flop" while sailing. But after I lubed it, the friction was gone to the point where it would flop on a tack a bit. I've never found it to be too big of a problem, with the sport autopilot installed anyway. Without the autopilot, it would probably be too loose and bug me to the point of disconnecting it when sailing. Of course, it is probably a good thing I greased it when I did or who knows how much longer it would have lasted with water inside the grease fittings. I suppose the weight does cause some additional wear for the autopilot....but I now believe (after about 3 decades of boating) in the "low hassle" approach to boating so I would rather just have the dumb thing rebuilt every few years rather than disconnecting it everytime I sail. In my environment (lots of channels, lot of bridges, etc.), I tend to switch between motoring and sailing quite a few times during a day.

Tom Spohn · Post by **Tom Spohn** » Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:17 pm

Frank C.
You can see the quick release here: http://www.bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%2 ... eering.htm

Frank C · Post by **Frank C** » Sun Aug 22, 2004 12:56 pm

Thank you, Tom. It looks more complicated than I imagined, but the price is definitely reasonable. Nice to see that BWY has their on-line catalog working.

bscott · Post by **bscott** » Sun Aug 22, 2004 5:59 pm

On a boat with a mid boom traveler, the vang is not hardened up that much on a close reach which is why a 4:1 works. It is most effective on a broad reach or down wind to keep the boom from lifting once the boom goes beyond the operating range of the traveler.

richandlori · Post by **richandlori** » Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:13 pm

Ok gents,

I am new with only two weeks on my 26M and it is my first boat. The individual I bought it from listed it as having a Boom vang, but I don't have a clue as to what one is, what it does, how I use it, what it looks like. Infact I can't even be sure that my 26M even has one. So can someone please tell me what the boom vang is, why I wan't one, and how I use it.

Thanks

bscott · Post by **bscott** » Thu Sep 09, 2004 11:50 am

The boom vang is a 4:1 pully set that extends from the base of the mast to the boom at a 45 degree angle.

Its purpose is to keep the boom from raising while on a reach or a run.
It is a sail shape device.

Tom Spohn · Post by **Tom Spohn** » Thu Sep 09, 2004 1:53 pm

When air moves over the surface it encounters some friction where it touches the water. Consequently the air at the top of the sail will be going slightly faster than the air at the bottom of the sail. This gives you the problem that the optimum setting for the top of the sail may not be the optimum setting for the bottom of the sail. If you have streamers at the ends of the batten pockets you will see that sometimes the streamers one end or the other will be flying perfectly while the streamers on the other end are jumping around and misbehaving. This can be corrected by selectively tightening or loosening the leach of the sail. On a boat like the X, which I previously owned I would tweak the vang from the cockpit until I had good flow all along the leach. On the M the leach can be adjusted, at least when sailing close reach, by adjusting the traveller. As the boom extends beyond the cockpit the vang is usually more useful. My original problem was that when sailing on a broad reach say on a port tack (wind over the port side) the mast swiveled as designed and life was good. However, on a Starboart Tack, (wind over the starboard side), with the boom way out over the port side of the cockpit, the mast would still be swiveled to starboard since the way the line to the vang was led to the cockpit held it there.

So far my solution is to use the traveller when close reaching and to not worry about the sail shape too much when broad reaching or running. I am still looking for a better way that doesn't involve me going on deck to make the adjustment.

MacGregorSailors.com

MacGregorSailors.com

Boom Vang on the "M"

Boom Vang on the "M"