Repainting the hull

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richter372001
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Repainting the hull

Post by richter372001 »

Hi

I read and reread the postings on bottom paint, but I don't think I got a clear answer on how to handle this:
The old bottom paint has worn off and it's time to repaint.
There are some barnacles and other crap attached to the hull.
What is the proper way to clean the hull and then repaint it?
Should the old paint be sanded or just cleaned off? And the barnacles?
How many paints of antifoul? Barrier coat before it?
The boat spends 4 months straight in warmish, salty water and the rest of the year on the trailer outside, but not covered, except for the Tumacs boat cover.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
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pokerrick1
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What I do

Post by pokerrick1 »

I can only tell you what I do:

Step 1) Motor to haul-out

Step 2) Haul out

Step 3) Give them a boatbuck (1,000)

Step 4) Say "call me when it's done". :P

Rick :) :macm:

PS I only do it this way because I want the boat to still float when work on it is completed. :wink:
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bastonjock
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Post by bastonjock »

to get a good paint job,you will have to remove all of the barnacles etc and sand down the old paint using sand paper,grade depends on your own abilitys,personally i would use 180 grit then 400 to finish it off.Id flatten it all off untill all of the cracks,scratches etc are gone and then dpending on what antifoul that you use,i would test a small area first to check for reaction,then apply according to manufactures instructions.


DONT FORGET TO READ THE COSH sheet!!!!!!!!!!!!,paint can contain nice stuff like cyanide and VOCs,a proper respratory mask and working in a well ventilated area is important,go to a bodyshop supplier and purchase a mask that does particle and chemical fitlration not one of those paper diy jobs,they are not up to it.
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puggsy
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BOTTOM PAINT.

Post by puggsy »

BOTTOM PAINT OR 'ANTI-FOULING' , CHECK WITH THE SUPPLIER THAT IT IS COMPATIBLE WITH FIBREGLASS AND WHETHER OR NOT IT REQUIRES A PARTICULAR UNDERCOAT. AS SUGGESTED, GIVE WHAT IS LEFT OF THE OLD COAT A RUB DOWN...AS LONG AS IT IS ROUGHED UP TO LET THE NEW PAINT BOND TO IT. IF YOU ARE PLANNING LOTS OF HIGHSPEED WORK, USE A HARD SURFACE TYPE, OTHERWISE, USE A SOFTER, ABLATIVE [ WEARING OFF SLOW] TYPE. I USE THE ABLATIVE ON MY :macm: 8) PUGS...
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bastonjock
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Post by bastonjock »

my boat will be on a drying mooring so ill go with the hardstuff,id preferr the ablative type that pugsy uses but,it will wear off too quickly

but as i have all the tools and equipment to respray the boat,its not such a big issue with me,also if your boat has been epoxied,i would not remove all of the paint as you may also remove the epoxy coating
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Morimaro
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Bottom paint

Post by Morimaro »

This is our tenth season with our 26X and we have just been down to the yard (boatyard, not back garden!) and put another coat of antifouling on her, ready for relaunch. She's been on the yard hard stand for the winter.

We apply cruising, hard antifouling, because we use the "power" option almost as much as the sailing option and the new antifoul will gradually wear down over the coming season.

Our preparation consists of brushing off any small barnacle things (usually not many due to the old antifouling doing its job) also the powering has worn off a lot of the old antifouling, so we just slap on another coat over whats already left there!

Usually takes couple of hours clambering under the boat on its trailer to paint her bottom. The yard fills in the bits we can't get at, under the trailer beds and also the centreboard. These final jobs are usually done whilst hoisting boat off trailer onto the yard's launching cradle. (six pack for the boat yard guys, for finishing the job)

We are two hours or so and a ferry ride from the boat mooring, so having the helping hand from the boatyard is essential for us.

Although in the past we have done the beds/centre board whilst still on the trailer, by using the jockey wheel and some support posts to lift boat off trailer a little way, it was such a bind doing it, we asked the yard to help and it was no problem for them to do it at relaunch time.

Cheers
Morris
26X99 hullaballoo - Solent U.K.
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Russ
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Post by Russ »

I used to use those sanding blocks. Those brick-like things that "melt" away as you use them. They smell like rotten eggs, but work great. Sand as much of the old paint off, especially if it's flaking. This will assure a good adhesion with the new paint.

I used to just paint over the old stuff leaving it bumpy, but I found sanding it smooth gave me better performance albeit MUCH more work. Hopefully you wont have to do it often.

As mentioned above, bottom paint can have some nasties in it, so wear proper protection like a good respirator mask and eye protection. Wash up well afterward. Sometimes it's worth a boat buck to not deal with that stuff, but then again, if you want it done right, DIY.

The horror stories I've seen of boat yards charging for stuff they either didn't do or did improperly.
LOUIS B HOLUB
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Post by LOUIS B HOLUB »

I did the bottom job myself. When things are scraped off, I used a "jitterbug" sander--thats a hand held vibrating unit that uses stick on small sand sheets. Once the finish is sanded, and then well cleaned, I found that a 4" paint roller worked best on applying the paint coats.

If you have an "X", definately remove the Centerboard to do a better job. Its a good time to check out the pivot hole, and C/B line.

It was my first bottom job. Not too difficult.
BKAFER1
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sanding and paintin

Post by BKAFER1 »

I hit the bottom with a 1/3 sheet vibrating sander using a fine paper.
smooth it and scrape off any nasties.
NOTE :you will want to wear some type of mask when sanding. Its more dangerous breathing it in while sanding it. You get all those poisons in the air. Not a good thing for you. Plus some eye protection.
Your just sanding the high spots and the nasties and the lose paint. I don't try to get down to the gelcoat. Thats when problems can start.
I then use a small roller and some of the blue masking tape for the waterline. Tnen I try to jack it up a bit to get a paint brush under the bunks or rollers or what ever your using.
Its akes time to paint it, but I get as good a job and maybe better than the yard does. Cause I care about my boat and they just want the money.
I use a hard coat cause its faster in the water. which is another reason I have the faster white hull. And I save my boatbucks for something I really need
,.
K9Kampers
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Re: Repainting the hull

Post by K9Kampers »

Has anybody seen, heard of, or tried this product?

X145 - Marine Vessel Hull Protection Coating
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puggsy
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Re: Repainting the hull

Post by puggsy »

All those barnacles...and their circular hard stuck on bases...have to come off.
As for cleaning...A high pressure water gun, like a Karcher will do the job. May not get off all the marks, so tackle them with some sandpaper. you should be able to rub your hand over the hull without getting cuts or even scratches.
If you are using what we call anti-fouling paint [ prevents / slows down marine growth] and not just a 'bottom paint' that only protects the hull surface, then it is only necessary to undercoat the bare patches. To help the anti F. bind properly to the hull surface.
If there is some Anti F. still left from the previous year, and you have cleaned it properly, just bung on some more. I tend not to trust the job to boat yards. They spray it on and all you get is one thin coat.And they have to thin the normally thick paint to get it through the spray gun. Something the can says NOT to do. Especially the type that sloughs off over time or through use [ ablative]. Spraying only suits the hard surface stuff. I always use a brush and never a roller. Apart from the waste of expensive paint in loading the roller, the roller seems to trap air bubbles as you go because the paint is usually so thick. Lay it on thick with a scrubbing motion and dont worry about a neat surface. Put on the second coat straight away, or a third if you feel energetic. If your boat is on a trailer most of the time, there is not much point in Anti F. Maybe just a wax finish. and :macm:'s do not really travel fast enough to warrant a hard finish Anti F.
If its in the water for maybe months at a time, like my :macm: SEAHORSE, then ablative is the way to go. Putting the antiF.on thick , especially around the waterline where the growth will be thickest, gives the option of a scrub every now and again and still having paint left there. h\Hope this helps...Puggsy
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puggsy
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Re: Repainting the hull

Post by puggsy »

Silly me! i answered twice...same advice though!...
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