FOAM between the hull and the interior wall

[Divecoz]

. . . Even bi injecting foam between the already existing blocks because that process will glue them together and to the hull becoming a single strong block.

And with a long thin pipe I am sure that the entire area can be filed…
More ideas, experience or suggestions?

I wouldn't want to glue all those blocks together. Opening the flotation compartments is frequently the only logical approach to repairing deck fittings, or adding new ones. I want to be able to remove Roger's foam, when I so choose.

What are the chances Roger is recycling his foam no longer needed foam packaging rather than sending it to the land fill or recycle collector??
I mean you have to hand it to him, he is cleaver, and he has engineered a reasonabley strong light weight boat. . .heavy doesn't make it stronger . . .

[March]

As the foam cures, it releases gases. And it keeps on curing for a long time--at least the expandable foam does. I am not sure I would like to breathe all that stuff seeping into the cabin. I would also like to be able to inspect the interior FROM the interior, pull wires, change their configuration.A solid core would make those processes a mess.
I am not sure the advantages of a solid core outweigh the disadvantages. The styro-pieces offer enough buoyancy, don't they? They don't rattle. They're not in the way. They can be removed easily, when need be. The foam will make a punctured boat float 5 inches higher, but it will still be a punctured boat, and it will still need to be dragged ashore.
I dunno

[Hamin' X]

Did any one tried to filing the space between the hull and the interior wall with foam (injection spray).?

I am thinking on trying that to obtain sound and temperature insulation and a bit more solid structure.

And most important flotation to compensate removal on bow to install whater tank.

Ideas, experience?

[March]

Thank you, Hamin' X, for pointing out what the initial question was:

--temperature insulation: actually, a layer of air has pretty good insulating capabilities, not much different from a layer of foam--if it is sealed in, of course. Sealing in all the seams as well as the bottom area would achieve the same results
--sound insulation. As we all know, sound propagates damn well in water. As long as the ballast tank is incontact with the water, any sound in the water will carry trhough the hull whether it's foamed or not. As for sounds ABOVE the water, I doubt that you will get a radical reduction by using foam in between the hull/interior wall. The Mac is like a two layered, resonant, accoustic box. You can pad it with accoustic foam on the interior, it will still resonate:
--floating capabilities--addressed above

[Andy26M]

Related question:

I'm missing the foam from under the forward triangle of my V-Berth (26M) because my original dealer removed it to install a water storage tank. I've since relocated that water tank for weight distribution reasons.

Can I just use any kind of Styrofoam blocks and jam that space full of them, or do you need to look for a specific kind of Styrofoam?

- Andy

[DaveB]

You need closed cell foam (closed cell foam doesn't absorb water)and once mixed expands rapidly . I did all around my Ice box on my 35 Alberg (1982)and is messy and hard to clean up.
The good part is you have a AirX form of construction and if you hole the outer fiberglass the foam will keep water from penetration. It acts as a solid piece when useing between the hull and interior liner and would highly recommend around the chain plates areas to reduce hull flex.
This liquid product is very difficult to use in tight places and will bulge any areas that in closed off. Best to use in very small quanities until you get use to it and use a gas resperator and fully clothed with rubber gloves in a highly ventatated area (Fans).
You can also use this in place of the styro Pone Macgregor uses to seal in Tanks, floation but it needs air to cure . Why I said do a little at a time and watch it expand much greater than the small spray foams sold in Hardware stores.
Defenders carries the product.
Dave

Did any one tried to filing the space between the hull and the interior wall with foam (injection spray).?

I am thinking on trying that to obtain sound and temperature insulation and a bit more solid structure.

And most important flotation to compensate removal on bow to install whater tank.

Ideas, experience?

[J.Teixeira]

It is going slowly butt seems OKl.

I am using low expansion closed cell foam in non pressurized liquid form that I did obtained from a friend in a refrigerator truck factory.

I did fill the port side wall of the bow bert until 30 cm above the bert platform. (I did it bi injecting very small quantities with a few days interval.

on that side there is a huge difference of small waves sloshing noise while sleeping.

Knocking on that area from inside and outside it sounds a much more solid wall...

There was no deformation of the interior liner...

For the cable path ways a am testing installing flexible insulation piping before using any foam there.

That way I hope to keep the pathways clean. I did not touch those ares YET...

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The bad news is that the job is really very nasty.

Foam is impossible to clean if it falls in wrong places.

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(I remember that what I am trying to do is injecting foan between the hull and the vertical internal liner all around the boat 10 cm below the water line and at least 30 cm above it.)

Experiences, suggestions. ideas: WELCOME...

Jose