Could use help with 26X trailer brakes

[Loala]

Hey guys!

My trailer has been acting funny so I decided maybe I should replace the bearings & maybe check the brakes to see how they were doing. Well this is what I found.








Brakes had rust and drum had rust, doesn’t look like they were even touching. Doesn’t look like the brakes were even working. Looks like the piston is rusted and frozen. Bearings look good but will get replaced.

Here’s my problem, I don’t know where to buy new parts or what the part numbers are.

If anyone can help me I’d really appreciate it.

I believe this is the stock Dico trailer from 1995 that came with the boat. I would like to replace the bearings, seals, brake pads, springs, piston, and star adjuster. Anyone know what the part numbers are for these items, where is a good place to buy them, or where to get some sort of a schematic for this trailer?

Thanks so much.

[Frank C]

You're lucky that they froze in the retracted state. By contrast, my drum brakes froze with the shoes slightly contacting the drum. Upon driving it that way, they didn't apply enough pressure to hold the wheel. But they did apply enough pressure to heat the drum, probably until it was cherry-red. By the time I stopped & "smelled the bacon," that heat had boiled the paint right off the wheel, and actually toasted the tire into an unusable mess.

Replace your drum brakes with Kodiak disc brakes. It will be an afternoon's work, but no more effort than repairing those drum brakes. You'll need the brake kits for both sides. You might also want a new "brake actuator" but that complicates things quite a bit, as the old one must be torched to remove it, then the new one welded or bolted to the nose of the trailer. I like the UFP actuator for disc brakes, the same one now installed by Macgregor on every new trailer. You'll find its description on the MacFactory's "suppliers page" ... or in Heath's archives, search on Kodiak to find several prior threads.

[Scott]

When I rebuilt mine I just took the parts to the local auto parts store and had them dig out the book.

Took a little while but I eventually found matches for all the parts. (Pictures)

[Kelly Hanson East]

I dont see definitive evidence that your brakes are frozen up. Are your drum surfaces smooth and shiny on the inside or do they look corroded??

You can check if the pistons are stuck by having someone carefully and slowly push in on your brake master cylinder piston with a screwdriver while you watch the piston for movement.

[Loala]

I just hauled the boat around last weekend and when I pulled the drums off last night I witnessed old rust built up on the shoe surface and drum surface inside. This kind of stuff doesn't happen in a weeks time. These surfaces have not seen contact in quite a while.

Can someone help me find the piston, seals, bearings and springs for these drum brakes? The auto parts store guy says I have to have a part number or auto make or they can't help me. (Don't have trailers in the system.)

[Scott]

Go to a different store, they all have books that have pictures of the parts.

They were clear enough at O'riellys that we got it right first try.

Sounds like he just didnt want to take the time to drag out the book.

[technicalman]

When i took a look at what i had, everything needed changing. i upgraded to disk brakes. i went with these guys. "Southwest Wheel's" out of texas.

They shipped fast. I don't know about the prices. I looked around nad everyone had the similar prices, but everything works great and they answwered all my questions when i called them.

http://www.trailerpart.com/kodiak.htm

[MadMacX]

Don't even try to repair what you have, just replace the entire package. If the disc brakes are too expensive just replace everything with a corrosion resistant backing plate package that includes an aluminum wheel cyl, stainless springs, new bearings and new brake shoes. If the drums can't be turned, replace them at the same time. Also, check your master cyl, because chances are, it is junk. Mine was so bad that I even had to replace the brake lines. Most of these items can be purchased off of e-bay, or do as I did, and go to www.championtrailers.com or www.easternmarine.com. Screwing around with that rusted mess is just not worth it. I replaced mine just after I purchased the boat last spring and have had no problems since.

Good Luck,
Pat

[Loala]

I went to AutoZone and Pep Boys last night and no luck. Seems like they just hire kids in high school that can barely spell their name. Very sad.

Well after researching the internet for a bit I found out Dico trailers is about 1/2 hour away from me. I can get the slave cylinder, brakes, bearings, races, and springs with star adjuster for about $75. That’s a total rebuild. I priced the whole backing plate replacement package and it is about $225 per side. Might as well go with disc brakes for that price.

For anyone down the road researching for Dico Inc. here's their information.

Dico was actually dissolved years ago but Mighty Mover Trailers still uses the Dico Inc. blanket and continues to carry parts.




Dico Inc.
224 N. Sherman
Corona, CA. 91720
951-736-0225

[Loala]

When I rebuilt mine I just took the parts to the local auto parts store and had them dig out the book.

Took a little while but I eventually found matches for all the parts. (Pictures)

Scott do you remember what car they said the brakes were for?

[Scott]

No, it wast a listing for a car it was a bendix catalog and I just matched the picture to what i had.

[Loala]

Ok thanks.

I think part # 3121 will be the ticket for me.

http://www.championtrailers.com/DRUM%20 ... USTERS.htm

Thanks MadMacX for the link!

[socalmacer]

What I've found the two times I've serviced my trailer brakes is the parts you need are pretty standard parts found on your typical trailer. An auto parts store is not the best bet where as a trailer parts store or online (see previous responses) store will know exactly what you need - there aren't alot of choices. If you decide to go with the corrosion resistent drum brakes make sure you install a flush kit to get the salt water out other wise you'll be back in the same situation in a couple of years. If you go the disc brake conversion route make sure you do not buy any china crap - take it from me you will regret it. Buy name brand (kodiak is good from what I hear). Check the rest of the trailer out. I wen to the trouble of replacing the entire brake system only to find out the rest of the trailer was pretty much shot. Anyway, good luck and happy trailering!

[Kelly Hanson East]

I just did the disc brake conversion on my trailer - I was forced into this as I killed the axle when my bearings went out and had to replace the entire axle. The brakes turned out to be more expensive than the axle!!

I went with the Silver Cd Kodiak kit - the other option was all stainless Kodiak kit. If I were a heavy salt water trailer sailor, I think I would go that route. It took me one hour to put the kit on the axle (with the axle off the trailer) - maybe double that if your axle is on the boat.

Chip H swayed me against the (somewhat cheaper) TieDown Engineering version, which uses Brass bleeder screws in Al calipers - they are guaranteed to freeze up and snap when you try to bleed brakes. This from a PE who knows his way around tools vs me the casual grease monkey....

Champion in LA no longer carries the Kodiaks btw, but you can get them from a couple places on web

[Loala]

Well I was all ready to spend upwards of $650+ for the Kodiak SS disc bakes but I really want to buy an uluminum trailer in a couple years so I decided to buy the galv./SS. drum brake assemblies for $55 a piece and the $20 flush kit. I primarily do lakes so this should last a few years and it didn't really break into my Christmas money.