POWER Ballast tank modification with alarm

[baldbaby2000]

Several years ago I saw a shut down circuit for hot tubs that glued to the outside of the tub at the level at which one would want it to trigger. It was nice because nothing gets wet. I couldn't find where to buy them so I reverse engineered the circuit but found there was a custom programmed microcontroller so I'm not sure if I can reproduce it. Instead I ended up designing a circuit that would measure the power factor of the tub motor as a shutdown mechanism so I quit looking at that option. I think the dielectric effect of the proximinity of water gets detected and triggers the circuit. Not sure how it would do with salt water. Maybe someone has seen one of these.

[baldbaby2000]

Only other comment I could make is you could add a fitting onto the Cu pipe for a compressor perhaps, which would give you a blow ballast option in case you couldnt motor to drain.

I was also thinking of this. I did some experiments last year blowing the tank with a cheap 12V blower for blowing up air matresses. I just jammed a hose in the vent hole and hooked it to the pump. It took several minutes and it got to the point where bubbles were coming out the back but there may have been some water still there. If you hooked one of these to the valve, it would vent air through when you want to fill the tank, and you could turn it on to empty the tank. Might be especially nice for us guys with weighted daggerboards who want to risk sailing with no water ballast.

[Captain Steve]

for a few bucks more, on Ebay, you can make your system wireless...The whole kit for a car with 2 or 4 actuators, 2 remotes and the box is like 4.95 or so. Have Won a couple to make the old car have power locks.

[LOUIS B HOLUB]

When I think I've seen the "cleverest" idea, then here comes this modification...
My problem, remembering where all the knobs, buttons, latches, levers, cleats, closures, gizmos, alarms, and gadgits are already....OH WAIT , I have a check list...I know its somewhere around here...sigh...

[Paul S]

Here is the promised diagram. I am not an engineer.. but you can get the idea of what I did.

Let me know what you think..comments..etc.

Click the image to be able to read it.



Paul

[Paul S]

for a few bucks more, on Ebay, you can make your system wireless...The whole kit for a car with 2 or 4 actuators, 2 remotes and the box is like 4.95 or so. Have Won a couple to make the old car have power locks.

Was looking at that too (wireless) but this was pretty simple too. I didnt want to have a key fob remote..wanted a console mounted switch.

This mod is pretty easy to modify further to fit your needs..make it as complicated/simple as you like

Paul

[Paul S]

Personally I think this is overkill for the manual option, but thats just jealousy speaking....(since I have a crew member responsible for ballast checking, I never have to deal with it )

This is an elegant solution to the ballast valve problem, the beauty of it is that it avoids the marine tax by using standard consumer products made in large volume, with good reliability data as well as easy and fast availability of components.

What kind of engineer are you professionally Paul??



ANy component failure wont take out your ballast system

Only other comment I could make is you could add a fitting onto the Cu pipe for a compressor perhaps, which would give you a blow ballast option in case you couldnt motor to drain.

Not an engineer by trade.. work with computers (Oracle DBA) but secretly yearn to be an engineer.

Yea..just what we need..a power blow valve for the ballast!! We could pressurize it and use it as a jet-drive

I am sure there is a simpler and better looking (maybe more reliable) way of opening and closing the valve..but I am at a loss.

Here was my plan B if the plumbing valve didnt work..use a toilet fill valve. The actuator would have no problem moving that switch. But that would have really looked mickey mouse

Instead of the valve..replace it with this:



Paul

[MAC-A-TAC]

Good work. Impressive.
Anyone can make something difficult but it takes an engineer to make it simple.

By the way, what about the floating ball shut-off valve principle, you know the one used on all wet vacs to stop water from overflowing the canister. Should a be simple adaptation, plus it would be an automatic shut off.

Thanks again for sharing your mod.

[Russ]

This is an awesome idea. I love the ingenuity of it.

I was thinking that I would like to extend the vent outside so nasty smelling venting air wouldn't fill up the cabin.

How about taking a hose and running all the way back to the cockpit with some kind of valve back there? Very low tech.

Also, looking at the wiring diagram, perhaps a small local 9volt battery to the buzzer would be simpler than running a 12v circuit for that purpose.


Kudos for this idea.

[BigNige]

A word of caution.

I note that this mod was first posted in 2006. If Paul is still around he should be able to tell you that his copper pipe and valve have corroded away by now as they are not at all suitable for use in seawater.

If you are contemplating such a mod I would suggest you use thick walled PVC or ABS instead and a matching ballvalve.

[Retcoastie]

Okay, what's the deal on copper and saltwater? I thought old wooden sailing ships were clad with a copper bottom to retard marine growth on the hull. I thought it lasted a long time.

Wrong?

Ken

[Hardcrab]

Maybe because the copper was always submerged?

This copper mod may /may not turn green and grow all kinds of junk on it, I dunno.

PVC pipe and valves would eliminate all doubt, and could be easier to work with to make fit into the vent hole, IMHO.
I've just done the mod using PVC pipe/valve but with manual valve operation and no anchor locker vented fitting.

This mod should exceed my simple desire to chuck the vent plug, while keeping any overflow water out of the pot to be bailed out.

[Paul S]

A word of caution.

I note that this mod was first posted in 2006. If Paul is still around he should be able to tell you that his copper pipe and valve have corroded away by now as they are not at all suitable for use in seawater.

If you are contemplating such a mod I would suggest you use thick walled PVC or ABS instead and a matching ballvalve.

The pipe is just fine. no issues yet. Just as shiny as the pics show.

I went with that valve because it was the easiset for the small actuator to move. The pvc valves were a lot stiffer.

If you are going to do it manual or a stronger actuator, then it doesn't matter, go pvc

[Boblee]

G'day Paul
You have obviously been using this for some time now so have you had any problems with the ballast tank not being completely filled, I think I would go crazy wondering if it was actually full.
This has happened here even with the manual system with an airlock? and again after several days on the water when checking found tank was down after beaching nose up, presumably a leak in valve or not fully closed.
The mod is not on my list as I find it is easy to leave the bung out, open the valve and then just wait up front till it fills, this also allows me to rock the boat fore and aft etc to clear bubbles, usually get about 2" water in bowl before replacing bung.
Bob

[The Mutt]

I'm still on the bench about automating the vent on our , if we did I would also look at adding a motorhome wastegate valve over the ballast tank inlet and link both to open and close together, a manual overide for each would be included for tweeking the fill level.

Glenn