Decided to drop the centerboard to replace the line on it. Removed the nut and washer under the front dinette seat, expecting it to drop a bit with slack in the line. Nope.
Hammered it with a mallet. Nope. Put the nut on the end a bit and hammered with a ball peen. Nope.
Getting a flashlight and looking at the stud, it appears there's sealant between it and the fiberglas.
Borrowed a 140W soldering gun (to heat the stud) and ordered some DeBond2000 (5200 remover) if that fails. Before I try these, is there anything I'm overlooking?
Thanks,
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Moe
Removing Centerboard
- Rick Mathews
- Deckhand
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 11:48 am
- Location: Portland, Oregon
I have had the board out a few times now. I spray some "Anti-Bond 2015" around the bolt and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I put the nut back so it sticks up a bit from the end of the bolt, and whack it with a 4 lb. sledge. When I put it back I use 4200, which supposedly lets go a little easier than 5200.
- Tahoe Jack
- First Officer
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:50 pm
- Location: Lake Tahoe Nevada 2001 26X Evin/Suz 50..'Octopus'...
Removing Centerboard
Hi Moe.....lots easier ...and better for the boat..if you get under the boat, and tie a snug rope loop around the board below the pivot...insert a three or four foot piece of 2x4, flat against hull, adjust for leverage...and lean on it...mine came loose pretty easily...and against a lot of 5200 resistance.
This can be done on the trailer...without any jacking or anything. Good Luck Jack
This can be done on the trailer...without any jacking or anything. Good Luck Jack
To follow up... I took Jack's advice. I tied a circle of rope and hung it on the ends of the centerboard pin, outboard of the bracket arms, leaving two loops hanging for a 2X4. I only had a 4' long piece, and used a small piece of 2X8 to spread the load where the 2X4 would be bearing on the boat bottom forward of the centerboard slot. This leverage pulled the bracket out of the sealant easily.
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Moe
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Moe
