Electric head installation

[Mike Hockey]

Hello everybody,

I just received my brand new electric Jabsco. Before ordering the necessary 25 gal Vetus flexible holding tank and the flexible vetus pipes, I would like to check a couple things with you guys.

First and the most critical, the location of the throughull for the water intake. There seems to be room in the closet cabinet, but it is located pretty close to the water ballast. Any structural concerns I should take into account? Fiberglass fatigue over time due to operation of the valve? I could always locate it farther back under the seats on the mirror side... Where did you locate yours?

I also noticed that the toilet side of the boat is quite loaded: toilet cabinet panels, toilet bowl and motor, fresh water reservoir, sink cabinet, and the previous owner placed the radio and services battery on that same side. I fear a static heel. Should I locate the holding tank (25 gallons: 200 pds when full) on the other side of the boat? Do I worry for nothing?

I first looked in the archives but I did not find what I was looking for.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Mikw
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[Matt19020]

Mike I have a Jabsco pump head in mine. I only have a 9 gal. holding and a 6 gal. supply water (hard tanks) with no thru hull to pump to sea. My pump out fitting is located just in front of the head along forward cabin wall right below edge of windows and my tanks are under forward bunk satarboard side. I will not have the same weight concerns as you but I would see what I could do to balance out as much as possible. I try to put my heavier storage items on the port side like a spare anchor and chain bbq grill, fire extinguishers battery charger it seems to pretty good but I think you will have concerns with 200lb put on one side or the other. If you could not find a suitable spot some options I have seen were to use two tanks connected to balance out load (port and starboard) under stern bunk. I also know of people putting it under forward bunk where the flotation is but would also be sacrificing flotation for weight. I am not sure what year M you have or motor size and weight they may help in some suggestions from other members.
Also if you usually carry a cooler that may be able to balance the load out some with another 50lbs of ice and beverages.
Your set up is different but if needed I can go out and snap some pics

[Mike Hockey]

Thanks Matt,

O.K. I now know that my weight concerns are not without foundation with my new boat. One thing known.

My motor is a 50 Hp Honda 2003. My boat is a Mac 26 M 2003, which means the galley and the fresh water tank are on the same side as the toilet closet, in front of the mirror which is «tribord» in French and (please somebody clarify) starbord (?????) in English.

I do not want to carry fresh water in a tank for the toilet. I believe a throughhull can be done if one is careful, prudent, takes advice, etc.

Here is something I am wondering about: is it possible to keep a ballast tank empty while the boat is sitting in the water for more than a week...I feel you would need NASA valves to perform that..... The level of the throughull could be influenced by 4 inches based on that information.

The throughull would have to be located very low, if the toilet would have to work on an empty ballast. Locating it in the toilet cabinet would not work, since the ballast level is at the level of a possible throuhull.

I am almost sure the throughull would have to be located AT LEAST as far aft as the lower side of the step, maybe farther aft.....still not fixed on that...

For the holding's tank, if the weight is located on the left or «babord» port (?????) side, it could only help, shouldn't it ??????

Thanks,

Digging Mike (not worried, used to these unknown things and likes them somewhat...)

Thanks

[Divecoz]

I installed several thru hulls on my boat this winter.
#1 for my raw water wash down pump. That pump supplies water to a wash down hose mounted with a faucet on the port side under the helm seat. I can reach the hose bib without lifting the seat btw.
That same pump with the use of a 12 volt solenoid,also supplies water for the wash down in my toilet and raw water rinse for the toilet.
That pump ( and this is a first on this board I do believe) also affords me the ability to drain enough water from the ballast to float my boat should I find the need / I've grounded.
I have a 2nd ....#2.thru hull for macerator discharge
and a 3rd #3. for direct grey water discharge for my sink.
With #'s 4 and 5 being in the transom , above the water line for bilge pumps.
#'s 1 & 2 are below the water line and have never caused me problem.
Right now the boat after being in the salt water 24/7 for three months ,is back home next to my garage and I have inspected it and find no problems with any of my thru hulls.
You will or should find, when your cutting holes in your boat, that the hull below the boot stripe is anywhere from 1/2 " to close to 3/4 " thick. The higher up you come of coarse the thinner it gets. Some will say Blablabla cheap bla bla well I have seen personally that with the use of proper resin and allowing there by, the hull too flex ,.........that much can be experienced by these boats........... that would cause great damage to other more rigid built boats. There are some trade offs to be made I am sure. However If any of you find your someone who thinks....... the more nails in a board the better / stronger your very wrong.... These boats are built light for a purpose and yet seem quite strong IMHO.
I was recently SLAMMED into a channel marker piling by a hillbilly Yahoo, who was running his twin 200 hp CC boat WOT between the markers and out of control............. we sustained only minor damage.