Ultimate Storage & Shelving Plans for 26M

[Man~ana]

I have a 2008 - 26M. I am ready to install permanent storage and shelving. My needs are storage and shelving to allow 2 people to go out for up to 7 days. I want the best plans (functional, ease of access, secure for rough seas, durable, how to attach properly inside, safe, etc.). I am not interested in saving money but want to install the best storage and shelving once and for all properly. I hope there are commercial suppliers available for the 26M with top quality options?

Can you recommend a commercial supplier? If not, who has developed the perfect storage and shelving system for a 26M and wants to share their secrets? Plans and photos would be appreciated. What not to do would also be helpful so I don't make the same mistakes.

Bill Bennett
Man~ana
Kingsville, ON
Canada

[Paul L]

Hi Bill,

I'll look forward to the responses to your post. Though I suspect you'll mostly be referred to the Mod section.

This is our first summer with our 2005 M AND, it's our first boat.

Here's what we've learned so far about storage.

1) There is an incredible amount of storage under the seats. And it does keep the cabin clear of clutter, but you have to USE it...ie be willing to keep lifting seat cushions to put stuff away and then get it back out. ORGANIZATION is the key word. We use large tupperware bins.

2) a half dozen coffee mug hooks scatered (sp?) around wall & ceiling are VERY convenient.

3) nice teak shelf units are available, but I haven't been willing to shell out the $$$ for them. Discount and dollar stores have adequate plastic versions, like the white plastic baskets we hang near the galley from our coffee mug hooks to put our tomatoes and fresh fruit in.

4) We talk of going to a MAC rendezvous to see what others have done.

Paul

[Divecoz]

IMHO there is no perfect generic solutions .... Paul uses buckets for fruit and veggies I hung a nice size SS colander for mine.
I have SS racks that run across the back and above the galley and I hold lots of stuff there. As Paul warned ... check the mods. But be ready to do it your self...

[ALX357]

This "mod" took some time to complete, but the work was not carried out in the boat, (my garage) except for hinging the one cover under the settee seat. Clear acrylic access covers .... and hinged seat / lid on the settee cooler... (bandwidth use is minimal with the links)

[ALX357]

One full 4x8 sheet of 1/4 inch (or whatever the original covers measure ) made enough to replace every plywood cover in the boat, including all the ones in the rear berth and settee floor, which were warping and stained. The clear covers are one of my favorite mods, making these storage areas more user friendly, more accessible, and more likely to be used ... because they allow storage visibility, stay flat, and don't stain. Holes in the middle make them easy to pick up, and allow some ventilation of the storage areas and bilges.

Here is the whole discussion thread where I pasted the photos from, and where more ideas are presented.

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... s&start=15

[adrenaud]

I love the idea of the acrylic covers instead of the standard "plastic" covers for the storage areas. I am going to make that switch this winter.

Thanks for the idea.

Andre
Just Relaxing

[Hardcrab]

I don't think these are the ultimate storage mods, but they work for us.

First, we never liked the head door.
It gets in the way, and a royal PITA to use, IMHO.
No one wants to cr*p in a coffin.
So we removed it.
That meant the "wood" could be used to replace the entire face on the sliding galley.

Those handy cubby holes on the galley leftside didn't balance out with the PITA of the "almost lost" huge space behind them, at least for us.
By cutting out a new galley face from the removed head door, with two full sized access doors cut in (just like the stock right door),
we traded the small space robbing cubbies for much better storage in the galley, IMHO.
Even the head door latch and hinges were reused.
The color and grain are identical to the rest of the boat, just not with the extra shine of the original face.

Next, we never sleep in the V berth. We use it for duffle bag storage and what not.
(Gotta keep that weight forward)
Wal Mart sells some "tupperware" like 3 drawer units ($30 or so?) that fit perfectly just forward of the forward head bulkhead.
The drawers face inboard and hold lottsa stuff.
Easy to access, nothing to remove first.
And, you can still sleep one person in the port V side if needed.
I added a buckle strap from top to bottom to keep drawers closed during heeling.
I also added a SS sheet metal screw to each joint to keep the unit together; it's made to come apart for normal home use.
It's just tied it in place with some heavy twine stuff at a screw in the hatch area and that goofy mirror in the V berth.
It does limit, but not eliminate, access to the starboard V storage area somewhat.
I think I get more easy usable space in the deal anyhow.

Three years now and we love it.

[Divecoz]

ALX357 OK Mr Hot Shot!!!!!!!!! Don't just post pictures and slink off !!!
Step by step Inch by inch every dagnabbit detail!! Leave not a single item out!!! How did you make those....?
For those who have never done it .... IMHO....... working with Plexiglas Sucks at best!
Start with exactly what it is ... as there are numerous options and few are compatible for our intended purpose.
Where did you get it? how did you cut it ? How did you radius the corners? did you use heat or flame to fog/soften the edges????
Best tools, blades best teeth per inch, drills what worked best for what...countersink which type ?

[ALX357]

Huh ?? slink off ?? I was trying to be apologetic for bringing this mod up again. Not sure if it is allowed in the thread....

ok, it is acrylic sheet, 1/4", bought from a plastics supply company, as the whole 4x8 sheet. The sheet was about a hundred bucks, that is 5 years ago, and the cuts were either nominal or free ... maybe a dollar each, there being maybe ten cuts total.
Measuring the X-boat's original masonite fiberboard covers, allmost all the same size, except for the big cooler under the aft settee bench, and the battery compartment cover aft the galley. I laid out the pattern of cuts to the sheet. 'Found that the cut pattern had to be done in a certain order, ( Dutch-cut) , to maximize usage and get the sizes all out of the one 4x8 sheet. I think two or four of the pieces had to be turned the opposite way on the sheet. I used pencil and paper to figure it out, but If you'd rather do it visually - just chalk a 4x8 on the driveway, and see how best to lay out the cuts, using two or three of your covers from the boat. Keep in mind there will be some kerf loss to the saw blade's thickness, usually about an eighth of an inch per cut.
Then I provided the cutting pattern and measurements to the plastics company and they cut the sheet up for me, in their production shop while I "supervised". I'm a photographer slash carpenter so I get chummy with the production guys.
That's all I needed from them, but could have done the cuts myself, but why ?
I left with the cut pieces having rough square edges. At home and on the boat, 'compared the original covers to the actual depressions in the liner, to make the best radius, and then traced that radius on the corner of each new cover, with a Sharpie pen. There are probably 12 or 15 covers, and that makes alot of corners, but the belt sander works fine to quickly round the corners and grind off the edges. The friction heat makes a mess of the ground off "sawdust" plastic flashing, but just let it cool a minute and it usually just breaks off brittle when it cools, or tear it off while it is soft if your fingers can take some heat. ( Comparable to changing a lit lightbulb ). A lightweight belt sander makes the work less tiring. Hand sanded to smooth out the belt sander irregularities and left the edges slightly frosty, rather than take the time to flash them glossy. Maybe used an electric palm sander for the finishing.
Then a Forstner type bit, I think, makes a neat hole in the center, without producing a stress crack. 'Harder to explain than just look at one in the hardware store if you're not familiar. One trick with alot of sheet material is to drill one side until the pilot-point hole appears on the other side, then drill from the second side to avoid the thru-cut from being completed at the surface. The holes' edges were radius-smoothed with a Dremel and drum sander attachment, and then by hand with sandpaper. For smaller holes. like in the hinged cover where thru bolts and nyloc nuts hold the hinges to the acrylic, there are spade shaped drill bits, made for tile, glass, and plastic sheet, that minimize the risk of stress cracking. You can count on problems if you use the common type of twist drills, and probably paddle bits as well.
To screw acrylic directly to the fiberglass / gelcoat, just pilot drill the acrylic slightly oversized, so the screw will be loose, and just the right amount in the fiberglass to minimize cracking of the gel-coat and maximize the grab on the screw. I don't bother with nuts and machine bolts except for the hinges on the settee cooler's cover. Then use the bugle head counter-sunk type screws with finish washers, which have a humped profile and nest the screw heads. The washers cover the oversize holes, and don't overtighten them, so there is a bit of slide for the acrylic as it expands and contracts, without causing stress cracks or pulling the screws loose.
Basically the acrylic "works" pretty well, being much more consistent than wood.

Whereas Polycarbonate is unbreakable, but many times the cost, the acrylic in 1/4 inch is strong enough to take sitting on, however can be broken. None of the ones I use have ever broken or cracked. One cover, which is over a bulkhead in the bow, is split to allow forward battery access, but the other part stays screwed over the flotation part forward, as seen. For the cut, I think I used a jigsaw with metal cutting bade, very fine teeth, and a felt sheet adhered to the saw's foot to avoid scratching the acrylic.
One thing to consider .... the covers in the rear berth are over very shallow areas, not much good for storage, and so replacing their covers not as useful, except many of the original covers on my X had "potato chip" warp and would not lie flat. But the acrylic covers are a little heavier, and to minimize aft weight, consider leaving them as is. You will have lots of spares, or some extra sheet to make a hatch cover out of, if you don't figure on using clear sheet over the aft berth storage holes.

More info than you wanted

[ALX357]

This thread has some galley face and interior space ideas from several board members.

http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... 8835&hilit

[craiglaforce]

What is that avatar picture of?? It is driving me crazy.

[Phil M]

I decided to add my most recent storage mod, which you may want to have a look at. The mod is titled 'Cabin storage cupboards'. It sometimes seems there is never enough storage available in a 26M.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1196

This is in addition to another mod for storage below the galley too, which is titled 'Galley storage cupboards'.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1178

Phil M

[Phil M]

And there are other ways of adding storage to the Mac as well.
Phil M

[Bransher]

Most important tip......take your time and be careful.
Think before you drill.

Note: This picture was posted recently by another member.
I would like to give picture credit, but can not remember who it was.

[SkiDeep2001]

ROFLMAO, I'm sorry, but whoever did that was either 3 sheets to the wind or must have had a recent lobotomy IMHO. Is that a photoshop joke I find it hard to believe someone could do that but I guess it's possible. I have seen some really strange stuff that people do. Rob