Adding slugs to the factory main sail.

[bwygirl]

Or you can send your sail to BWY and have their sailmaker install this professionally. We do not include the tack assembly but just ask and we will. The twisted shackles we began using a couple years ago and work great. You will love sail slides. Then go for leading your halyards aft and you will be able to raise and lower the mainsail from the cockpit. BWY also has a kit for that!

[Captain Steve]

Whats the purpose of the 2 closely spaced slugs at the top??

[mikelinmon]

Notice all that extra reinforcing at the headboard, extra material, extra rivets and sewing. The double slugs are needed to hold back all that force from the leech of the sail trying to tear the luff right out of the track. Two slugs near top is plenty, Ive seen one slug tear out on a competitors brand. Funny, O-Day is not around anymore, South Coast, Clipper, Gulf Coast, where did they all go? How about a contest to see who can name the most trailerable sailboats without making a mistake and including one still in production! I'll go first, "South Coast Seacraft". I was the New Orleans dealer in 1979. They disappeared still holding a $200 deposit of mine! Those were the days when a $200 deposit meant something. It was 10% of the base price of the SC 22.
Mike Inmon

[trip01]

Done mine as per Tangentair. 24" apart, 2 at the top.

Next is to attach 3 x eye saddles to the bottom of the boom to accomodate permanent sail ties and lazy jacks through the same eye saddles.

Where to connect these may be at best position for sail ties. The lazy jack can attach at the same point with a slight compromise.

Found this through a search.


Anyone else with the same needs

Kind Rgds
Dave
08 26M

[trip01]

Next on list - perm sail ties & lazy jacks.....

Plan is;
From aft of boom in 6", first eye saddle, [past the boom vang bailer], 45" second eye saddle, 85" third eye saddle, [before the main sheet bailer].
These eye saddles will be the anchor points for the perm sail ties & lazy jacks. (Eyes will take a 6mm + 8mm braid).




Kind Rgds
Dave
08 26M

[c130king]

Dave,

How are you attaching those "eyes" to the boom?

Thanks,
Jim

[bubba]

Has anyone added a sail cover to the lazy jack system like a stackpack? This would hold the reefing lines and sail out of the way.

[Sumner]

Has anyone added a sail cover to the lazy jack system like a stackpack? This would hold the reefing lines and sail out of the way.

We hope to do this before we go back out and will post pictures if and when it happens.

Also a little late, but I added slugs......................



http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner ... ing-7.html

...........last summer and love them. Here is a link to the installation, but it is pretty much like what has been covered here..............


c ya,

Sum

Our Trips to...

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[trip01]

Jim,

Attaching eyes to the boom at the bottom with alloy rivets as per photo;




Kind Rgds
Dave
08 26M

[c130king]

I have never done riveting before...in fact have never even seen it done. What do you need (costs??) and how do you do it?

Could you use short SS screws? Drill a small hole and then screw a slightly larger screw through the hole? Especially for LJ since there isn't that much stress/pressure on them?

Thanks,
Jim

[Obelix]

C130king,

I don't trust aluminum rivets
I always use SS screws.

obelix

[THE CUSCUS]

Drill and tap holes for 10-32 ss machine screws. Put blue lock-tite on the threads to prevent corrosion and keep them from loosening. Stainless steel doesn't like aluminum (chemically that is).

[trip01]

With slugs done, next is how to lower the main by halyard. (Where & how to connect). I bet there is a certain method as a rope attached to the upper eyelet on the main pulls sideways & the slugs jam.

Anyone please.

Kind Rgds
Dave
08 26m

[Hardcrab]

c130king,
"Pop" rivet sets can be had at places like home depot and such. Not rare at all. Or expensive; in the order of $20-$25 for the tool and an assortment of rivets.
The rivets come in various diameters and lenghts for the "business" ends.
Very simple to use.
Determine the size rivet and thickness of material being joined.
The lenght of the rivet should be the total thickness being joined plus 2 times the diameter of the rivet, minimum.
Drill the indicated diameter hole, insert the rivet into the tool, poke the tool/rivet into the hole, squeeze the tool handle until the seating plug shears ( "pops") and grin.

Your beloved C-130 is loaded with a variation of the same rivets, at least in overall concept.
Just different materials, strenghts and a very precise Mil-Std "pop" needed to set it.
They are set in the same manner, but with an air tool vice a hand tool.

SS versions are already used on the Mac in some places.

I dont share Obleix's adversion to pop rivets. Just the opposite. I'd much rather use the correct material, diameter, and pull lenght pop rivet any day over sheet metal screws, unless easy and expected disassembly will be needed. Even then, I'd do my best to use screws/nuts if at all possible.
IMHO, and YMMV.

As a totally usless aside, I will venture there are no sheetmetal screws holding your C-130 together, but there are thousands of "Cherry Max" rivets, solid rivets and "Jo-Bolts" (a really heavy-duty pop rivet-like fastener) doing the job.
I'll go further and venture there are no sheet metal screws at all, anywhere, in your bird.

[c130king]

As a totally usless aside, I will venture there are no sheetmetal screws holding your C-130 together, but there are thousands of "Cherry Max" rivets, solid rivets and "Jo-Bolts" (a really heavy-duty pop rivet-like fastener) doing the job.
I'll go further and venture there are no sheet metal screws at all, anywhere, in your bird.

Dude,

I just fly 'em...I don't build or fix 'em. But thanks for that info on riveting...someday I will have to do that.

Thanks,
Jim