3 way battery switch

[MtnMsailor]

I am installing a three way switch on my two batterys. Was wondering what would be best? Should I wire all the positive leads through the switch or just off the batterys? I have a starting battery and a house battery.

[c130king]

Are you referring to a 1-2-Both-Off type switch? I installed my BlueSea Systems switch about 7 months ago. Positive wire from Battery one to the post for battery one on the switch. Positive wire from Battery two to post for battery two. Then I put all the other wires on the "common" terminal (alternator, starter, fuse panel, pedastal). On odd days I select position "1" and EVERYTHING is powered by battery 1. On even days I select "2" and EVRYTHING is powered by battery 2.

The two batteries are joined by a Yandina combiner so no matter which battery is getting the charge from the alternator the combiner shares the charge with the other battery. The negatives are tied together with the negative from the fuse panel.

Thus I don't have a "house" and a "starter" battery. I just have two batteries to use. If I have any difficulties starting the engine I can select Both...but I never have.

LOTS of threads on this topic. Have you tried a "Search" on "Battery Switch"? Probably find lots of good info.

Good Luck,
Jim

[Trouts Dream]

You also might want to look at installing a combiner.
Makes recharging brainless, perfect for me.
When running the motor all the power is sent to the primary battery (my house battery). When that battery is starting to reach max charge the extra power is diverted to the secondary battery (otherwise it would be lost). I have never had a battery problem since doing this and going to LEDs.

[nedmiller]

I agree, if you can afford a combiner then do that. The P.O. of my boat installed a marine starter battery and then two big house batteries. The combiner charges the starter battery first and then charges the two house batteries as needed. The starter battery is never used to run lighting or anything in the cabin. He also installed an emergency switch so you can switch to use the house batteries as the starter if the starter battery goes dead.
SILK

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

These 'Add A Battery Kits" at $132 are really quite reasonable for what you get and it is a much more reliable way to install two battery banks than the old fashioned "1-2-Both-Off" switch. The big red multiposition switches are too prone to human error, forget to change it from 'both' where you have it when you run the motor and in the morning both batteries can be dead. With the kit below all you do is turn it on and off one time per trip. It has a combine position, but when it is installed and working properly it is very unlikely you will ever need it. It takes care of all the required switching during the trip for you in the combiner.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sNum=12106#

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

Are you referring to a 1-2-Both-Off type switch? I installed my BlueSea Systems switch about 7 months ago. Positive wire from Battery one to the post for battery one on the switch. Positive wire from Battery two to post for battery two. Then I put all the other wires on the "common" terminal (alternator, starter, fuse panel, pedastal). On odd days I select position "1" and EVERYTHING is powered by battery 1. On even days I select "2" and EVRYTHING is powered by battery 2.

The two batteries are joined by a Yandina combiner so no matter which battery is getting the charge from the alternator the combiner shares the charge with the other battery. The negatives are tied together with the negative from the fuse panel.

Thus I don't have a "house" and a "starter" battery. I just have two batteries to use. If I have any difficulties starting the engine I can select Both...but I never have.

Jim

what Jim said..
i have the same "fool-proof" set-up.
works great!

Bob T.
"DāBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki

[kmclemore]

Well, I may be a silly old b*stard, but I use three switches... and I usually run with the switches selected so that both batteries are combined, so that I get maximum length of use out of them (you can get more time of use out of two batteries than you can out of using each one individually, believe it or not). I monitor with a dual Xantrex and if I see the engine battery getting a little low I just flip the switches to 'house only' so I can keep the engine battery in a useable state (almost never happens).

[c130king]

I would imagine one's electrical juice use would (or could) make a difference in what type of electrical switching system you set up. In my current configuration I use very little juice...vhf, chartplotter, stereo...that's pretty much it. And, for now, no juice monitoring capability.

And I have yet to go a "long" period of time without using my motor and thus my batteries get "re-juiced" fairly frequently.

Thus my set-up works for me and is fairly simple. Since the 40 HP motor doesn't require much juice I don't need to reserve a battery for it and I don't have to worry about draining my batteries with my electrical useage.

There are many ways to juice the cat.

Cheers,
Jim

P.S. Got a strange hankering for some OJ.

[DaveB]

Jim,
At many times I find myself motering. my Honda 10amp is for starting battery only but will install the Yandina combiner 100 this weekend to charge starting and 2-27 deepcyle house batteries.
I added a new Edgestar 66 quart refig. and tho tested it out for 3 days 2 weeks ago on a trip I may need the extra charge from outboard on a 5 day plus cruise.(SW Florida)
After 3 days volts were 12.4 volts on the twin 27 deep cycle useing every elect. on board includeing 8 hrs CD on laptop without no chargeing hooked up.
When it gets to avarage 90 degrees day and 74-78 nights I am concerned that the Edgestar will demand more for a 5 day outing.
I think the charge from outboard will do the job without getting batteries down to 50%.
Wished I had starting and house all same group 27 deep cycle,as I wouldn't have needed the combiner, they would have all been in series and would have enough to start engine.
My thoughts were combine 3 batteries for house and start, I doubt it ever would go below the demands of starting for a Honda 50. Since I have the combiner I will install it but next round of batteries will be 3-group 27 deep cycle in series. Otherwise would do 2-6volt Trojan golf cart batteries for house.
I have a cig. plug digital voltage meter and a hand held to ck batteries, very accurate.
Dave

I would imagine one's electrical juice use would (or could) make a difference in what type of electrical switching system you set up. In my current configuration I use very little juice...vhf, chartplotter, stereo...that's pretty much it. And, for now, no juice monitoring capability.

And I have yet to go a "long" period of time without using my motor and thus my batteries get "re-juiced" fairly frequently.

Thus my set-up works for me and is fairly simple. Since the 40 HP motor doesn't require much juice I don't need to reserve a battery for it and I don't have to worry about draining my batteries with my electrical useage.

There are many ways to juice the cat.

Cheers,
Jim

P.S. Got a strange hankering for some OJ.

[DaveB]

Installed the Yandina combiner this morning, started outboard and was reading 17 volts from Honda 50 to only the Starter Battery, twin House batteries remained at 12.6 volts with no chargeing from Combiner. I have a 10 amp built in charger that charges house and starter batteries at seperate charge and all batteries were fully charged before I unpluged shore power.
After 2 phone calls to Manifacture for trouble shooting as the combiner would go off 30 sec. and on for 60 sec. with the battery selector switch off.
They said return it, thats just my friggin luck.
Anyone have had this problem?
Dave

Jim,
At many times I find myself motering. my Honda 10amp is for starting battery only but will install the Yandina combiner 100 this weekend to charge starting and 2-27 deepcyle house batteries.
I added a new Edgestar 66 quart refig. and tho tested it out for 3 days 2 weeks ago on a trip I may need the extra charge from outboard on a 5 day plus cruise.(SW Florida)
After 3 days volts were 12.4 volts on the twin 27 deep cycle useing every elect. on board includeing 8 hrs CD on laptop without no chargeing hooked up.
When it gets to avarage 90 degrees day and 74-78 nights I am concerned that the Edgestar will demand more for a 5 day outing.
I think the charge from outboard will do the job without getting batteries down to 50%.
Wished I had starting and house all same group 27 deep cycle,as I wouldn't have needed the combiner, they would have all been in series and would have enough to start engine.
My thoughts were combine 3 batteries for house and start, I doubt it ever would go below the demands of starting for a Honda 50. Since I have the combiner I will install it but next round of batteries will be 3-group 27 deep cycle in series. Otherwise would do 2-6volt Trojan golf cart batteries for house.
I have a cig. plug digital voltage meter and a hand held to ck batteries, very accurate.
Dave

I would imagine one's electrical juice use would (or could) make a difference in what type of electrical switching system you set up. In my current configuration I use very little juice...vhf, chartplotter, stereo...that's pretty much it. And, for now, no juice monitoring capability.

And I have yet to go a "long" period of time without using my motor and thus my batteries get "re-juiced" fairly frequently.

Thus my set-up works for me and is fairly simple. Since the 40 HP motor doesn't require much juice I don't need to reserve a battery for it and I don't have to worry about draining my batteries with my electrical useage.

There are many ways to juice the cat.

Cheers,
Jim

P.S. Got a strange hankering for some OJ.

[c130king]

Dave,

Truth be told I have only used my boat 11 times (5 times in Sept 09 and 7 times in Dec 09) since I installed the Yandina combiner. I have not measured any voltage or amperage. I used battery 1 on odd days and battery 2 on even days. I probably ran my engine minimum 1 - 2 hours every time I went out.

And I have had no issues. It sure seemed like a pretty straight forward installation.

When I get back to the boat this summer I will do some checking with my handheld volt-meter.

I am trying to keep my electrical system as simple and straightforward as I can...but one step beyond a single battery.

Cheers,
Jim

[Sumner]

...........the combiner would go off 30 sec. and on for 60 sec. with the battery selector switch off.

Dave I'm not sure exactly of the problem you are having, but this is from their site:

Q Is is OK for the combiner to cycle off and on when charging first starts?

A This is normal. When one battery gets to about 13.2 volts and the combiner closes, it is connecting it to a battery which may be at only 12 volts. High current will flow from the 13.2 volt to the 12 volt one. This causes the voltage on the 13.2 volt to drop despite the charging current from the alternator so after a 30 second time delay, the combiner turns off. By this time both batteries will be at an intermediate voltage, for example 12.5. So the battery on charge starts building up to 13.2 again and eventually the contact closes and delivers another pulse for 30 seconds to the other battery. After a few cycles like this, the battery receiving the charge via the combiner will be charged high enough that it will stay on continuously. This cycling is a protective function for both the batteries and the combiner so that the excessive currents from putting the batteries in parallel does not cause overheating. The high current pulses can even be beneficial to batteries which sit for long periods with negligible loads.

http://www.yandina.com/combInfo.htm#Trouble

Is that what is going on? Also you said you would run the group 57 batteries in series. If they are 12 volt then didn't you mean to say parallel? Good luck with the problem and hope it is resolved soon ,

Sum

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[pokerrick1]

On my 2006 M with two batteries and a 3 way switch; I was taught to never have the switch on "both" unless I was at the slip on shore power (charging) or I had the engine on (charging). I was told to use just one battery when sailing to run the stereo and any other equipment; therefore always keeping one battery totally fresh and full for starting the engine when necessary. Worked for me Even if battery #1 went almost dead - - - #2 was there to start the engine and get me back to my slip.

I'll bet some newbies were never advised of this obvious plan

Rick Less

[DaveB]

Sum,
After 2 phone calls to Manifacture was told to send it back. All wires were connected right. Looks like a faulty Combiner.
Dave

...........the combiner would go off 30 sec. and on for 60 sec. with the battery selector switch off.

Dave I'm not sure exactly of the problem you are having, but this is from their site:

Q Is is OK for the combiner to cycle off and on when charging first starts?

A This is normal. When one battery gets to about 13.2 volts and the combiner closes, it is connecting it to a battery which may be at only 12 volts. High current will flow from the 13.2 volt to the 12 volt one. This causes the voltage on the 13.2 volt to drop despite the charging current from the alternator so after a 30 second time delay, the combiner turns off. By this time both batteries will be at an intermediate voltage, for example 12.5. So the battery on charge starts building up to 13.2 again and eventually the contact closes and delivers another pulse for 30 seconds to the other battery. After a few cycles like this, the battery receiving the charge via the combiner will be charged high enough that it will stay on continuously. This cycling is a protective function for both the batteries and the combiner so that the excessive currents from putting the batteries in parallel does not cause overheating. The high current pulses can even be beneficial to batteries which sit for long periods with negligible loads.

http://www.yandina.com/combInfo.htm#Trouble

Is that what is going on? Also you said you would run the group 57 batteries in series. If they are 12 volt then didn't you mean to say parallel? Good luck with the problem and hope it is resolved soon ,

Sum

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[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

PokerRick1,

You are correct to only use both when some charge source is present. Be careful however switching from #1 or #2 to both after you have started the engine. The momentary break in the connection can fry the diodes in your alternator. It's better to choose both then immediately start the engine.

Also, if you have equal sized banks, it is a good idea to alternate using 1 or 2 for the house loads so each battery gets equal wear so to speak.

The bigger your bank is the longer the life you will get out the batteries in it, that is why some prefer to run on both and simply use a good amp hour meter to monitor how much juice you have and reduce the depth of their discharges. Say you have two 100 ah batteries. The rule of thumb is to never discharge a battery below 50% to avoid doing long term damage to it, this is even true of deep cycle batteries. Say you need 50ah of power each day. If you run on either 1 or 2, you are taking the battery all the way down to the 50% point, which is hard on it, while the other one doesn't get used at all. If you were in both mode using 50 ah from the now combined 200ah bank is only taking the batteries down to 75% each day. It's much better for extended battery life to cycle the batteries between 100% and 75% than between 100% and 50%. You will get more full cycles before the battery dies.

The danger is of course accidentally draining both down and having no starting juice for the motor, that's where the amp hour meter comes in.