Best way to make 3" hole in fiberglass?

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Frank C

Post by Frank C »

Jim Bunnell wrote:Forgive a newbe question, but since you are on the topic of compasses - I'm outfitting a 26M with the ST4000mkII (thanks to whoever pointed out the sail price a few weeks ago) and my question is; since the autopilot has a fluxgate compass that displays on the control head, why do we need a magnetic compass as well? Is it just a safety factor (loss of power) or are there other reasons?
Jim, my primary reason is that a "real compass" is way salty! :wink:

Besides that, it's easier to see that you're veering when you watching the analog wheel instead of digital readout, and of course it's a cross-check to the GPS. Whe we cruised the Channel Islands last summer, my GPS quit. We were a group of five boats, out of sight of land. We stayed close to one buddy boat who wanted to sail, but the others quickly motored to indistinguishable specks on the horizon. I really did navigate back to our beginning waypoint strictly by reading a heading from the chart, then following the bubble. It really felt good to see our breakwater in the binocs just off the bow, about 4 hours later.

Finally, I recommend bulkhead mounting. My compass was on the bulkhead from day-one, and it helps both trimmer and helm to observe heading drift. At first, my chartplotter was always fouling the mainsheet at the pedestal. Worse yet, the sail trimmer could never see speed, which is very important to recognizing how minor trim changes affect the boat. As a general philosopy ... NAV stuff at the companionway permits all crew to observe heading, drift and plot. The pedestal is fine for engine instruments.
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flbum
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Post by flbum »

I have purchased the same Saturn bulkhead mount compass as ezaction for my new 2005 26M. If ezaction or anyone else has completed installation of a bulkhead mount compass, especially on a 26M, details would be appreciated.

Where did you mount the compass? Any problems or gotchas that i should know? Any interference with or from the mainsheet traveler or other lines , etc? Do you feel that you made the right choice?

I have zero experience on any Mac sailboat. I'm used to a Catalina 250. I hope to have mine ready to launch for my first time within a couple of weeks. The information that I have found in this forum has been extremely helpful.

ROB
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baldbaby2000
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Post by baldbaby2000 »

On my 26M the compass is on top of the steering pedestal. It's out of the way of the main sheet, people don't lean against it or block the view and it seems to work fine.
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mgg4
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Post by mgg4 »

I have a Mini-Contest compass mounted on the bulkhead on the starboard side of the main hatch. It was installed by the dealer.

I have also seen ways of preventing the chipping of the gelcoat when using a hole saw. You don't even need to use tape. I used this technique while putting in my Sani-pottie pump out mod.
  1. Put the hole saw in your reversible drill/driver. The hole saw has a twist drill in the center to act as a guide.
  2. Run the drill driver in forward, just until the twist drill breaks through. Stop the motor.
  3. Reverse the drill/driver so that it runs in reverse.
  4. In reverse "Score" the gelcoat with the hole saw.
  5. Once the scoring is down to a depth of about 1/8", you can set the drill/driver back to forward and complete the cut.
This should give you a good cut, with very little chipping of the gelcoat.

--Mark
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flbum
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Post by flbum »

I hope to install my compass in a couple of days. I learned a little bit about chipping the gelcoat today while installing my sannipottie hold-down brackets. I'll try Mark's technique when I drill my 4" hole for the compass.

I plan to install on the starboard side of the main hatch also. There is a lot of airspace behind that location which means that my compass will have plenty of room without having to project into the cabin. Also, there is an access panel conveniently located in the cabin behind that location which will make it easy to wire the light and later replace the bulb if necessary.

Thanks for the advice.

Regards,
ROB
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Pouw Geuzebroek
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Post by Pouw Geuzebroek »

The starboard bulkhead side is a good position to install the compass. I have a mini Contest installed on the Portside (it was already there when I bought the boat) But it would have been better on the Starboard side. Why? On the Port side there is (on the X at least) the 12V switch panel on the inside, and there is also one of the best places to install the VHF. All of these can be interfearing factors for the compass. I even considered moving the compass to the starboard side, but that was too much work. I now decided to install the VHF in a different place. The interfearence of the switch panel was not that big. One thing you have to remember when installing your compass is to twist the wires for the compass light. This will reduce interfearance of it's own light.
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flbum
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Post by flbum »

I'll remember to twist the light wires. Thanks for the input.

Regards,
ROB
normo
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Sleep on it

Post by normo »

Cut the hole tomorrow but never today. A small compass mounted on the pedestal is on my modification list. I use my gps for the serious navigating.

The bulkhead is one of the few comfortable cockpit surfaces to lean against IF it doesn't have a compass sticking out. I can't wait until I find the time to remove mine from this prime real estate.
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tidalwave
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Thanks to mgg4 about reverse spinning the hole saw.

Post by tidalwave »

I, also, was worried about chipping the gelcoat with a hole-saw.
My brother was over and we were browsing the board when we saw
mmg4's comment. My brother stated that whenever he is cutting then
aluminum panels...he uses a table saw with a carbide blade mounted in reverse to keep the blade tips from grabbing...he thought the reverse hole saw blade trick would work very well.
I tried it and found no visible chipping as per mmg4's instructions.

As always...I am glad that you experienced owners are online to give such great help!
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mgg4
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Post by mgg4 »

No problem, although I can't claim to be the originator of that information. I saw it on a boat improvement TV show called "Ship Shape TV".

I'm just a collector of obscure facts. Whenever I get a chance to pass a few of them along, I try to give back to the community. Glad this one worked out for you.

--Mark
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tidalwave
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How to cut a BIG round hole?

Post by tidalwave »

I plan on installing a couple of Lewmar #6 winches on my back side gunwales. I have a couple of large access ports I could install to get to the backing plates. It turns out that the cutting diameter is
6 1/2 inches...I found a source for such a large hole saw but it was
about $80! That's a little too much for just cutting two holes.
I thought about a jig saw but rejected that because of the jagged and
uneven edge it would make.
I have a Dremel rotary with several milling tools. I thought I would
mark off a 6 1/2 circle and then carefully cut along the line with the tool.

Has anyone tried to cut such a large hole?
Any objections about using a rotating cutting tool?

I would like to find out about any potential problems before actually doing the cutting.
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Captain Steve
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Post by Captain Steve »

Get a rotozip tool from Sears or other places...less than 50 bucks. It comes with a compass attachment which after drilling a pilot hole in the center will deliver clean holes of any diameter. I used mine for speakers down below and a bulkhead compass in the cockpit. The tool can be used to cut fiberglass. Oh I also trimmed down the fuel lockers to use 6 gal tanks..ala..Duane Dunn.
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kmclemore
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Post by kmclemore »

Actually, you can just buy the roto-zip bit and use it in your Dremel... works just fine!

I use mine with the Dremel "Multi-Purpose Cutting Kit" attachment to keep the bit at right angles to the work and make things a bit neater. (pic below)

Image
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Captain Steve
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Post by Captain Steve »

I have a dremel too...does that attachment rely on freehand following of a line, that is it handles like a mini router?
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kmclemore
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Post by kmclemore »

Yes, exactly, Steve... it screws on where you've removed the finger grip on the end of the Dremel, and it has an adjustment for depth that you can see in the photo. Very much like a router. Dremel does make a 'plunge router' attachment as well, but I have a 'real' router so I haven't seen the need for one of those.

With this attachment I guess I'm fortunate, in that my hands are still pretty steady, so it works for me with most shapes... just scribe a line and follow it!
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