26X Floor Dimensions and Cabin Wood

[Ponk]

We bought a '98X last summer and want to add wood flooring and also change out the plexiglass (table and head door) for wood.

I have measured the floor (including the diagonals) myself and created detailed drawings in Google Sketch-up but I am not certain that the dimensions I have will provide the right fit (snug enough not to shift but not too snug that the flooring is wedged). Does anyone have drawings of their floor pieces on an X that they are willing to share? I have considered emailing Kelly Hanson (who mention having obtained AutoCAD drawings from Idasailor) but since they sell their own teak and holly floor pieces, I don't know if they would share their blueprints for it. Alternatively, does anyone have any advice in what how much outside the diamond grip pattern I should consider for my dimensions?

Also, I brought a carpenter out to look at the table and door(which I thought would be straightforward) and we spent a half hour discussing materials for boats. I thought 1/2" teak plywood with solid teak edging would be fine and then changing out the plexiglass sheet on the head door with 1/4" teak plywood to match(glueing it to the existing plywood door). He started talking about the liklihood of teak verneer blistering with the humidity of the cabin (with leaks from deck hardware keeping a couple inches or water in the bilge) to the dry extremes in the summer. Are these legitimate concerns or is he leading me to more sophisticated materials and designs than I really require. I have a four year old and a four month old and not alot of time to do it myself, or alot of money to pay for the best possible job. I want something that will look good and last a reasonable amount of time.

Thanks in advance for your input.

[hart]

Can't speak to the materials question but I would track down those leaks and stop them.

Look at your chainplates etc. Do they have caulk on them already? Scrap it off and re caulk. If not check them for leaks and caulk them up. Also look in the pedestal where the steering cable enters the boat, mine leaked there but I made a cap of sorts that stopped it. (looks kinda like that thing they put on kayak paddles to keep water from running down to your hands).

You should be able to keep your bilge dry dry at minimal cost and with just a little work. Get your wife to take a garden hose to the top of the boat while you sit inside and look for leaks, then plug em.

If a piece of your deck hardware is the culprit then I would take it off and rebed it to stop the leaks. Again, it's not an expensive project and just takes a little time.

[Divecoz]

First things first .. Find and fix the leaks...
Not a major project but COULD cause a major problem.. Mold Fungus Stink ..etc etc .
The Floor? Others can chime in but , IMHO and its on my list.. Take that flooring TIGHT to the "walls".. Other wise you'll be forever cleaning "gunk" out of the crack all the way around that floor.. AS far as a pattern? Start with large pieces of cardboard and cut and tape.... till it fits perfect..
No Big Deal..just time consuming..What do you plan to use for the flooring? If its engineered flooring? I .. suggest sealing all the edges and the back before the install!
Teak Plywood? Why? Whats the cost difference between that and Maple or Oak? Both are tight grain and can be stained Teak Brown.....or Mahogany if you so desire.. That Teak Veneer offers no stability properties .. Again Select your sheet goods for grain, and stain and seal.. Seal the raw edges REAL good before you add your edging.. and seal it all again..
The door? You have the pattern for the door already, just cut one.. Don't forget to deal the hinge holes, applying sealer before assembling ...
Measure twice cut once...

[Ponk]

Thanks for responses. The leaks were on my to do list. I have already purchased the 3M adhestive from BWY with other gear to repair the "wear and tear' from the previous owners.

The floowboards are pre finished tongue and groove solid teak boards (2 1/2" wide x 5/8" thick and various lengths) for a house application. A friend of mine recommended taking the finish off of teak and just leaving it. He said he has seen untreated teak on boats that has lasted 20 years with only fading to show for it. I spoke to two carpenters about that table and cabinate doors and said they would never put solid wood on a boat (of any real width) because it would split with the extremes from moisture to heat. They each recommended a marine grade domestic plywood with a teak verneer and solid teak edging. One of the carpenter is recommending a fake wood laminate that would be perfect for the application. I am considering it for durability, ease of maintence and weight.

I saw from another post someone complaining about a lack of instruction on a Kelly Hanson "Barnicle Table" (?). I looked at the Kelly Hanson website and could not find any tables. Are wood tables available somewhere online for an X? Would like to just order it and screw it in instead of making it from scratch.

Thanks again,

[AlaskaMan]

Did you see the $$ on that table? I think I will continue to hold my plate in my hand and my beverage between my legs.

Mental Floss

[Zoran]

When I was building my floor I made a template out of cardboard and then just traced it on the plywood (my floor is made of marine grade plywood, painted and stained to look like teak and holly). I used standard, I believe it is 1/16" thick foam for laminate flooring as underlay and I am happy I did .I also made my floor to be removable and every winter I take it out and store it at home. That way I avoided all mold and other issues. As floors are removable I take them off and clean below few times during the season, it takes me only few minutes, and trust me there is stuff stuck under. When you are making template take into consideration the thickness of your floor and if you will have any underlay because sides are not squared so the thickness of the template have to be the same as the thickness of the floor and you have to cut it at the same angle as the sides are. I made my template of 1 1/2"wide straps of cardboard, and smaller pieces for the corners etc, that I glued with glue gun on top of each other to get the angle and proper thickness. I know this sounds complicated but it was easy and quick for me. Took me about an hour to make a template and when I cut the floor it fits almost perfect. I was scared that it will be too small so deliberately cut it just a hair bigger then template, so I had to do some sanding on side with fist installation and it is sitting perfect now.
Considering what I find under my floor when I am cleaning it I would never seal it, I like my floor removable. It sits in there like in a bathtub and you just lift it out for removal and cleaning and it does not move anywhere while it is on the boat.

Boy..I am not the best writer and I hope you will understand what I wanted to say... ¬

[gyroplanes]

I am watching this thread with great interest. I plan to go the thin, laminate route with spaces in between filled in with 3M 4200 http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1019 posted by Mike & Vicky Phillips. Are you still on the forum? I'd love some encouragement.

I sure would like some coaching on this project. I absolutely love the way that treatment looks (found pix on the mods page)

The so called "Swim platform" will follow as my dog got his long legs under the steering rods and scared us to death as his 70 lb body inertia carried him along. (he was uninjured)

I'd also like to buy that Dri Dek mat, that interlocks, for the cockpit floor. Any pros or cons on the stuff?

[nedmiller]

The cabinetry in SILK is all cherry wood (good properties for boats), and the P.O. made the floor to match by doing this: He took plywood with cherry veneer and ran wide lines with his router. He then filled the lines with what appears to be 5200 and smoothed them. The effect was a "teak and holly" look that is very nice. Years later it is still holding up, and I've sanded and refinished without issues. The plywood pieces are removable--I wouldn't fasten them down, either. Water and all kinds of crud gets in crack around them.

SILK

[jbgibbs99]

I was thinking about wood flooring and I came accross this product: http://aqua-step.co.uk/en/aqua-step-col ... ck/Merbau/

I liked the idea of just clicking it together - no glue etc. and it's made of synthetic resins - looks like wood, feels like wood, but 100% waterproof.

I haven't done it yet but my only concern is the one exposed cut edge I would have on the forward raised floor - but I'm sure I'll figure something out.

(PS as a test I got some bin end "click lock" wood laminate for $5 and cut it to shape - it seems to work just fine although I havent treated it and so I expect it to warp after a couple of months at sea. When it does I'll replece it with the aqua-step, and if it doesn't I have a wood floor for $5!)

[Catigale]

Ive done Dri-deck in the cockpit and the head floor in my

Highly recommend this product for keeping sand upstairs and also keeping things clean up top.