So, I'm looking at used Mac 26Xs. I know what to look for when inspecting a used car, motorcycle, or house. I'm also pretty knowledgeable about boats, I have owned and currently own several. What should I be on the lookout for when inspecting a used Mac 26X?
What breaks, what wears out, what needs attention, what are the problem areas? Is there anything that you owners find out through experience that will help me identify a problem boat before it's too late?
Thanks again in advance for all the good advise I can tell is coming. I have appreciated the answers so far to my questions.
What should I be looking at on a used Mac26X?
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mermaelee
- Just Enlisted
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 7:35 pm
- Location: Westminster, CA
- Contact:
Used features depend mostly on the year of the Mac.
Most important thing I would say when buying a used mac is what year was that Mac made. The 1996 models had weak cockpit floors and shorter rudders. Also the fiberglass matrix within the attachment points in the centerboard were so weak that people reported their centerboards falling off due to wear out of these holes and enlargement. I have a 2000 year and the fiberglass was reinforced during manufacture for the floor and centerboard as well as the water ballast vent was moved forward. Also my rudders are the longer version. They even seem longer than the new M models. In my mind you want to have a version of the X that was 2000 or newer, or depending on what year it was that Macgregor made these reinforcement changes to their manufacture process.
It's like bying a car that should have been recalled instead of buying the model that came after the changes in production.
Be carefull of the old X's, they work but are more prone to the problems I mentioned above. Look in the archives for the post that lists the exact items that were modified in production and what year those changes were made.
It's like bying a car that should have been recalled instead of buying the model that came after the changes in production.
Be carefull of the old X's, they work but are more prone to the problems I mentioned above. Look in the archives for the post that lists the exact items that were modified in production and what year those changes were made.
Some previous threads on changes on the 26X:
Factory Changes of the 26X
engine size , 50, 60, 70 ?
Buying used 26X advice
If the steering is stiff, you're going to have to replace the cable... $100 or so IIRC... common problem
Look for cracks around stress points, i.e. deck hardware, rudder brackets, spreader sockets, gooseneck, chainplates, transom
Look for damage on the centerboard and rudders, especially the leading edges.
The mast, spreaders and boom should be straight
Take all the cushions out and examine them and the bilge for mold/mildew problems.
I'm sure others have some checklist items.
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Moe
Factory Changes of the 26X
engine size , 50, 60, 70 ?
Buying used 26X advice
If the steering is stiff, you're going to have to replace the cable... $100 or so IIRC... common problem
Look for cracks around stress points, i.e. deck hardware, rudder brackets, spreader sockets, gooseneck, chainplates, transom
Look for damage on the centerboard and rudders, especially the leading edges.
The mast, spreaders and boom should be straight
Take all the cushions out and examine them and the bilge for mold/mildew problems.
I'm sure others have some checklist items.
--
Moe
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argonaut
- Captain
- Posts: 531
- Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 8:23 pm
- Location: '97 26X, Yammy 40 4s, Central Fla.
If you don't know anything about boats consider hiring a marine surveyor. You'll get a printed report with everything his experience helps him turn up.
These can be worth their weight, the outboard for example is a substantial cost item that if you aren't familiar with, you could run up quite a tab getting fixed.
Otherwise, look at engine hours, gelcoat for stress cracks, how old is the battery, look for rust. Look for kinks in the shrouds & stays, stainless metal is brittle, and kinked wires will eventually fatigue and fail. If at all possible, go out for a ride. A sea trial will give you confidence that the boat's engine is in order, that it's moving parts work, and that it floats. You can also see the condition of the sails while their up. Loose threads aren't expensive to have fixed.
Generally the factory electrical system is cr*p. Expect to see lampcord wiring and no fancy panels. Almost anything done is an improvement here. Under sail, pop open the panels under the cushions & see how much water's in the bilge. Examine the cushions for water stains, mildew can be a problem in hot humid climates. Smell the cushions. Your nose will tell ya if she's got a damp problem.
These can be worth their weight, the outboard for example is a substantial cost item that if you aren't familiar with, you could run up quite a tab getting fixed.
Otherwise, look at engine hours, gelcoat for stress cracks, how old is the battery, look for rust. Look for kinks in the shrouds & stays, stainless metal is brittle, and kinked wires will eventually fatigue and fail. If at all possible, go out for a ride. A sea trial will give you confidence that the boat's engine is in order, that it's moving parts work, and that it floats. You can also see the condition of the sails while their up. Loose threads aren't expensive to have fixed.
Generally the factory electrical system is cr*p. Expect to see lampcord wiring and no fancy panels. Almost anything done is an improvement here. Under sail, pop open the panels under the cushions & see how much water's in the bilge. Examine the cushions for water stains, mildew can be a problem in hot humid climates. Smell the cushions. Your nose will tell ya if she's got a damp problem.
Test sail
Ditto Argonaut's comment about a sea trial.
In addition to actually seeing the boat in action and looking at obvious stuff, you can also watch the previous owner in action and possibly pick up on areas where the boat has been misused or abused.
A few years back I was looking at a 26X that initally looked pretty good - she was at a mooring so needed a good cleaning. Then the owner and his wife took me for a test ride/sail and I realized a few things: he only seemed to know two throttle positions for the engine - idle and wide open throttle. They also only knew two positions for the sails - down, or close hauled until they were flat as boards and the sheets were banjo-string tight (the demo ride was in 5-7 knots of breeze...). Watching them operate the boat led me to seriously worry about the state of the outboard, as well as take a closer look at the sheets, sails, and rigging. I wound up not buying the boat.
- AndyS
In addition to actually seeing the boat in action and looking at obvious stuff, you can also watch the previous owner in action and possibly pick up on areas where the boat has been misused or abused.
A few years back I was looking at a 26X that initally looked pretty good - she was at a mooring so needed a good cleaning. Then the owner and his wife took me for a test ride/sail and I realized a few things: he only seemed to know two throttle positions for the engine - idle and wide open throttle. They also only knew two positions for the sails - down, or close hauled until they were flat as boards and the sheets were banjo-string tight (the demo ride was in 5-7 knots of breeze...). Watching them operate the boat led me to seriously worry about the state of the outboard, as well as take a closer look at the sheets, sails, and rigging. I wound up not buying the boat.
- AndyS
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Jeff S
- First Officer
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 2:13 pm
- Location: Cherry Point, NC 2000 26X Tohatsu 50
Good suggestions here, also take a good look at the trailer as well- big problem areas here.
Look for rust, brake condition. check the inside and underneath the tongue of the trailer for rust. Not a show stopper, but if the trailer needs a lot of work or replaced it is a cost consideration that would value the boat considerably less- even if you plan to leave it in a slip the trailer is part of the package and I would get one with a good trailer or a discount reflecting the cost of fixing/replacing the trailer.
Jeff
Look for rust, brake condition. check the inside and underneath the tongue of the trailer for rust. Not a show stopper, but if the trailer needs a lot of work or replaced it is a cost consideration that would value the boat considerably less- even if you plan to leave it in a slip the trailer is part of the package and I would get one with a good trailer or a discount reflecting the cost of fixing/replacing the trailer.
Jeff