Gaining access for installing a bow roller

[Mikex]

Another question for the learned ones:
I need to install a bow roller on our 26X and would like to reinforce the area by putting a plate underneath the bow.

My question is: if I cut a large hole under the anchor locker and remove the foam temporarily will this give me better access to the bow area for installing the plate? (And I would reinstall the foam, and cover the hole with a plexiglass plate)

Looking forward to your recommendations,

Mike

[Highlander]

Not sure of the X but the M has an access panel @ the bow eye that gives u access for that , tight but avail.

J

[JohnCFI]

I uprated the cleats and a few other bits in this area, I got access through the panel above the V berth (forward of the Hatchway). You will need long arms and at least one extra wrist or elbow, but it is possible to reach the bow. I made up a sort of bolster to lay on to get me right up to the panel. Don't expect to be able to see anything while working on it, no room for see and feel at the same time. And don't forget to put the foam back!!

In short you can, but it ain't easy!!

Mine is a 98

[dive4it]

Last year I installed a bow roller (on the bow of course) and nav lights on the side of my hull. I removed the access panel (plexiglass) and all of the foam....it is a messy job as all the little styrofoam BB's get EVERYWHERE!! Figure out everything that you want to do in there before you start the job. I replaced all the the foam when done and screwed the panel back up....the next hour or more was spent chasing static clingy styrofoam all over the boat with a shop vac (remember, the blow out the other end causing a tornado of foam). Now, I want to put better reinforced cleats up on my bow but am hesitant to go through that all over again.

JT

[Wind Chime]

Late model 's have no access panel under the anchor locker.

I installed a bow roller last year as well and managed to get it done without cutting an access hole, but I also had to remove the bow lights to fit the bow roller on.
To install the lights on the pull-pit, I need to cut a hole for the access to the pull-pit tubing to run the dc running light cable.

[DaveB]

I have the early MacX with access Panel. I also have a URM 2 by Windline anchor roller (this is the longer thats 16 inches long and will hold a Fortress FX23 or Danforth 13 lb and left on roller Sailing) yet to be installed. It does fit between the bow light and Headstay plate with enough room to pin the roller furler but best to relocate Forward running lights on bow pulpit or side cabin.
Best also to install new Stainless Steel Bow Cleats and any other wireing you need at Bow since as one mentioned it's a pain removeing all the styrfoam and putting it back in. ( I would replace new Styrofoam as it is not closed cell an over time allows moisture in.)
Dave

Late model 's have no access panel under the anchor locker.

I installed a bow roller last year as well and managed to get it done without cutting an access hole, but I also had to remove the bow lights to fit the bow roller on.
To install the lights on the pull-pit, I need to cut a hole for the access to the pull-pit tubing to run the dc running light cable.

[vizwhiz]

Last year I installed a bow roller (on the bow of course) and nav lights on the side of my hull.

[temporary hijack]

JT - what lights did you use for the side mounts? I'm going to do that while the boat is on the hard, and there are several options out there. The one combo light that's up on the front deck of my S is right in the way of everything!

[/hijack]

[dive4it]

Hey Viz,

I ended up getting some off of e-bay for an ok price. I'll see if I can dig up the sale or something similar for you. I was crazy impressed with them, when I first turned them on after installation, they about blinded me....I could see clearly by them in a completely dark shop....I would highly recommend. I think they were made by Hella but I will double check. They were surface mount, I didn't want to cut a large oval hole in the hull.

Ok, they were something like these but mine were more money and probably a little better quality (although I wouldn't be afraid to give these a try)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-ABS-Pla ... 198wt_1028

JT

[bscott]

BWY has a bow roller specific to the that has a side mount to fix the original light to. They also claim that the SS screws they provide will hold roller but do not recommend stowing the anchor on the roller. I installed mine, as per instructions, plus liberal amount of 5200. The fiber glass is very thick at the bow so I'm not worried about the install and I didn't have to rewire the lights.

Bob

[dive4it]

I too ended up installing the BWY's bow roller. They are very nice but decided not to go with their nav light mount as it just seemed like it would get in the way of everything. I used the supplied screws but later replaced the two rear ones with through bolts and a backer when I did the side lights.

JT

[Wind Chime]

Yes, the BWY roller is a convenient install that attaches with screws and allows the bow light to just be remounted on a stem. But is definitely just a light weight roller for pulling the day-rode up on a calm day, and not designed to store a permanently mounted anchor.

We went with a heavier bow roller with through bolts to hold our permanently mounted 7.5kg (16.5lbs) SS Bruce, because I could not see the advantage of installing a bow roller and still having to keep the big anchor below deck. (we do have a fortess lunch anchor/rode in the locker). There have been many times where we have been in rough weather and the entire bow and anchor locker are submarining into the high seas and taking green water on the foredeck. I would not be confident that screws and light weight roller would hold any anchor in these conditions.

All depends on where you sail and the limits of local conditions.

The trade off of course is the big roller means re-locating the lights. I have considered the side install, but am concerned of green water leaks into the v-birth.

As this original post states, getting acces to under the bow and anchor locker area in a late model is a pain in the aft , and then cutting access panels and making a new cover, drilling through the deck into the pullpit tubing to run electrical cables, etc.

by bscott » Fri Apr 05, 2013 6:25 am

BWY has a bow roller specific to the that has a side mount to fix the original light to. They also claim that the SS screws they provide will hold roller but do not recommend stowing the anchor on the roller. I installed mine, as per instructions, plus liberal amount of 5200. The fiber glass is very thick at the bow so I'm not worried about the install and I didn't have to rewire the lights.

[dive4it]

A nice gasket and clean application of 5200 helps me think the lights won't leak.

JT

[Wind Chime]

No leaks for you so far JT?
Have you had them underwater yet?

I also have some concern with the angle of the lights with them mounted far forward, the bow angle would mean the radius is shining further forward. So less visible from a vessel abeam
Dunn’s install has them at the beam so the angles would be right, but I don’t like that position myself.

by dive4it » Fri Apr 05, 2013 11:46 am

A nice gasket and clean application of 5200 helps me think the lights won't leak.

JT

[dive4it]

No leaks so far, I've had some pretty rough seas too. I took a closer look at them and they are a totally sealed unit so no water can leak through the light, they also came with a neoprene gasket. I put 5200 in the hole when I passed the wire through and then sealed the hole completely. The ones that I purchased were a little different than the ones on the e-bay listing, having a much narrower window for the LED's to shine through....it looked like a totally sealed window too....and if I didn't mention it....They are super bright.

JT

[Wind Chime]

Hey JT,
Out of curiosity …
did you mount your bow lights in the white gelcoat area, or higher up in the black stipe under the rub-rail? Why?