Hull / Deck Joint question

[bscriver]

I've decided to redo the rub rail and reseal the hull / deck joint on my 26s. I will be using 5200, however as I removed the rub rail it became evident that there is only 3 areas where the old sealant has failed and the joint bolts have become loose. The rest of the seam is solid and well sealed.

I am debating if I should just loosen the bolts in the failed areas, clean out the old sealant with a rotary nylon brush and use a shim to open the cleaned out area, reseal and tighten joint. Or should i strip it all and do it all over again?

Thanks for any advice

[kmclemore]

With HUGE jobs like this, I'm sort of with the 'if in ain't broke, don't fix it' crowd. So, yeah, I'd just clean out the areas that are loose and leaking and the rest I'd tend to leave well enough alone. That joint rarely leaks anyway, so if you've got leaks they may be localized and the rest of the joint may never go bad.

[mastreb]

Are you sure 5200 is better than 4200 in this job? 5200 dries way harder than 4200, and I think you'd want to preserve flexibility.

[yukonbob]

While on the subject…what would someone recommend for snaps on a full enclosure. I was planning on using 5200, but what are peoples thoughts.

[mastreb]

Honestly I think 4200 is the better general purpose sealant. 5200 is for joints that are never going to flex or move. I'm not sure why 5200 is more generally recommended, as it's far more likely to crack and no better a sealant. But for simple waterproofing/bedding of hardware on deck, butyl tape has a 50 year lifespan and never hardens.

[yukonbob]

Thats what I've been leaning towards. I've also seen the 5200 cracked or split.

[DaveB]

I do all the fiberglass work on the fiberglass slides in a waterpark (Sunsplash) and use 4200 ,24 hr cure to fix the seams holding sections togeather.
I use a 3inch fiberglass thin blade cutter/gringer on a drill to make a small V grove than air blow it clean, wash with alchol, air blow it dry than put the 4200 in useing a small steel brush (looks like a tooth brush with a small steel bristle on other side, Lowes,or home depot in Paint section) and rub the 4200 into the grove to get out all air bubbles than use a plastic puddy to smmoth it out.
5200, 7 day cure is for perminate fastings, hull to deck joint etc. 5200, 24 hr cure is little more flexable but is still a permanant bond.
4200 is more flexable than the 24 hr cure 5200 but semi perminant. Be sure it is totally dry before appling.
Manifacture use to come down and fix the leaks but they used secaflex and lacor thinner. The alchol and 4200 is a much better, there won't be a seperation and have the bead peel off. Thats my experance after 5.5 years working there and all the chemicals they use in the water never had I needed to repair .

Dave

Thats what I've been leaning towards. I've also seen the 5200 cracked or split.