Mast Raising with Boom & Sail

[norbert]

i did so for ethe first 2 or 3 years. then the black aluminium part inserted to the boom tube broke out. i replaced it and after that always removed the boom. it only takes a few seconds.

[Max]

Norbert,
Do you have a roller reefing system?
I have and the only way to disconnect it from the bow is to release the bottle screw and thereby losing the tension unless I mark where the nuts are. This is fiddly when approaching a bridge!!
So, my idea is to run a line from a cleat at the bottom of the mast to a block placed above the reefing connection point at the top of the mast, then run the line to the pulpit and secure. Then, when the mast lowering sustem is engaged, the tension on the line will hopefully enable the roller reefing forestay to become slack enough to remove a quick release shackel under the furling drum.
I've tried it on a model and it seems to work!
Max

[Kenoten]

If my memory serves me correctly,,, it looks like my connection ..97, but I always take the boom off. I would be concerned with the weight bouncing around on the mast as I travel.

I believe the hook is for the topping lift or halyards when not in use.

[Kevin]

Ok, I'm braced for the replies to my naivete, but isn't that the reef hook?

Used to cleat the sail when you reef?

[Tom Root]

Kevin.....yes the hook is used for reefing, don't feel bad, others have had the same problem knowing what it is used for......

Tom Root
2002 26
Great White
San Diego

[norbert]

max, yes, i have the factory cdi furler. never had a problem to disconnect my forestay, even with the genoa rolled on it. adjust your jib halyard so that the mast raising pole is about 30 degrees up before you start the operation. then use the vang and the winch to bring the mast sufficiently foreward to release the forestay. as said before: disconnecting the backstay is helpful. a longer clevis pin and a better cotter ring also help.

kevin, sure, you're right: the hook is for reefing. the reefing eye in the main sail is hooked on there.

[Frank C]

..... kevin, sure, you're right: the hook is for reefing. the reefing eye in the main sail is hooked on there.

And, in fact, following a suggestion from my Mac dealer, I also use the reefing hook for the tack. Completely removed the other little fitting.

[norbert]

And, in fact, following a suggestion from my Mac dealer, I also use the reefing hook for the tack. Completely removed the other little fitting.

frank, thanx for that idea, i never thought of this! will try it next time i hoist the main sail (will last some 8 weeks although, it's pretty cold outside, and i have to redo my bottom paint first).

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

I find the reefing hook is not a good place for the tack, It is to far forward and you get a bad wrinkle. The front bottom of the sail is angled back and the tack ring needs to line up with the forward edge of the boom to keep the sail smooth. I have drilled a hole in the boom track where the wider feed opening is. I place a ball release pin through this hole, the tack grommet, and out the hole on the other side. This gives me a very well shaped sail at the front.

In the picture posted of the new gooseneck design there is obviously a pin fitting for the tack provided. This is not the case of the older design. In the new design the reefing hook is welded to the fitting on the mast. In the old design the top of the bolt that holds the gooseneck to the mast is bent like a hook and does double duty. In either case, the way the sails are cut makes this location too far forward for the tack ring. Adding the pin further back has solved this on my rig.

[Frank C]

Yep, it causes a wrinkle in the sail. Don't care.

[Erik Hardtle]

It finally got warm enough to get pictures of my boom cover setup.



For more pictures click on the WWW button below.

[Tom Root]

Erik,

Your site keeps getting better and better, great idea's BTW! I find it a pain to stow the boom below, to scratch, smash and take up WAY to much space! Keep 'em comin'! That Roller Furler Traveller mast system (call it a roving mast hound ) has smoke coming out my ears. I was thinking of adding another Furler (genny) that I have and if I just put an adjustable lock fitting on the slide nearer the top, that would be trick! A wing on wing Jib configuration on a run, may be too much stress for this set up possibly?

Question- Did you run a few bolts through the entire mast or just screw the slide assembly on? I would put bolts all the way through, I believe.

Your decal graphics scheme has got to be the best one I've seen yet, also!

Ughh, wanna trade boats

Tom Root
2002 26
Great White
San Diego

[Chip Hindes]

Doesn't Jeff Stagg show a second forestay and a run with two foresails on his speedyrigger video? 'Course it's been a few years since I watched the video and in my old age I may have imagined it. Jeff runs hank-on foresails rather than roller furled. I'm not sure how practical it is either way. It almost seems you would have to run one jib as the port sail, the other one starboard all the time, and instead of tacking and jibing you just furl one, unfurl the other. Otherwise, the sheets of one are going to foul the other.

My guess (whoops, I mean engineering estimate, of course ) is that running with two foresails wing on wing doesn't put any more strain on the rig than running with the main and single genny, and far less strain than a beam reach.

[Mark Prouty]

Did you loan your boat to Roger MacGregor? Isn't that Roger driving your boat?

[Duane Dunn, Allegro]

Here's a mod that shows double furlers installed. You can run wing on wing with both and it is very fast. You still need a pole for the upwind side.

Double Furlers