2002 26X trailer brakes

[Lucky Drifter]

Hi Everyone I have a standard 2002 Macgregor trailer and its time to replace the Titan drum brakes. We are on the NSW south coast Australia. Does anyone know a local supplier for parts. Found this on the net http://www.easternmarine.com/titan-free ... ly-4423400 and looks to be the thing. I would like to just replace both sides. Any ideas please Thanks Lenny

[Herschel]

I can't help with your logistics issue, but I would like to mention the advice I was given by my marine tech when I replaced my brakes on my 1998 trailer last year. I was advised that shifting to disk brakes required a different actuator that was made for disk brakes. I am sure some of our more technical types will have more detailed info about why that is so, or may not be needed, but I did replace my actuator along with the brakes, and I am quite pleased with an easier connection and a more solid feel to the whole rig.

[marcopolo173]

Lenny,

Down here in Melbourne, I needed to get a new drum hub for my 2001 X trailer, they supplied the correct bearings too. These guys may be able to help
http://www.melbournetrailers.com.au

If you just need brake shoes, the part number is Brake Bonders E 1270. You should be able to order these from auto parts store.

Marc

[raycarlson]

I have UFP disc brakes and actuator and since UFP will not sell retail anylonger I use easternmarine for all brake axle parts, they carry a large stock of parts at a decent price.

[Tomfoolery]

I can't help with your logistics issue, but I would like to mention the advice I was given by my marine tech when I replaced my brakes on my 1998 trailer last year. I was advised that shifting to disk brakes required a different actuator that was made for disk brakes. I am sure some of our more technical types will have more detailed info about why that is so, or may not be needed, but I did replace my actuator along with the brakes, and I am quite pleased with an easier connection and a more solid feel to the whole rig.

Drum brakes require a small residual pressure, whereas disk brakes do not require, and definitely should not have, any backpressure when the brakes aren't supposed to be applied. The residual valve can often be removed, or you can replace the master cylinder without replacing the whole coupler (about half the cost of a whole coupler, depending on the coupler of course).

You also need a way to lock out the brakes for backing, as disk brakes don't care which way they're turning, and will easily prevent you from backing, especially if it's up hill at all. Drums systems produce less torque in reverse, and nearly none with free-backing systems. For disk brakes, use an electric solenoid valve, or a manual valve, or a pin. The solenoid valve is supposed to be connected to the backup lights in the tow beast, but I wired mine to the running lights with a plug, so for backing into my driveway or at a ramp, I get out, plug it in, and turn on the running lights. I could also just put a pin in (Titan coupler), but I'd have to make one that won't fall out, as a standard pin for a ball mount is the right size but the wrong shape.

I don't want to cut into the lights on my leased vehicle.

[Herschel]

Drum brakes require a small residual pressure, whereas disk brakes do not require, and definitely should not have, any back pressure when the brakes aren't supposed to be applied. The residual valve can often be removed, or you can replace the master cylinder without replacing the whole coupler (about half the cost of a whole coupler, depending on the coupler of course).

You also need a way to lock out the brakes for backing, as disk brakes don't care which way they're turning, and will easily prevent you from backing, especially if it's up hill at all. Drums systems produce less torque in reverse, and nearly none with free-backing systems. For disk brakes, use an electric solenoid valve, or a manual valve, or a pin. The solenoid valve is supposed to be connected to the backup lights in the tow beast,

Yes, that is, more or less, what my marine tech told me. Thanks. And, yes, replacing the coupler was a bit pricy, but I have enjoyed the increased ease of hitching up and more confidence in trailering for longer trips. Here is a picture of the new coupler.

[Lucky Drifter]

Well thanks everyone for your great advice as always.
Looks like I still have a bit of research before I go ahead
Thanks again Lenny

[Catigale]

I switched to disks and removed the residual valve on the actuator, but did not change it

This works fine, for 5 seasons now

[DaveB]

My Stainless Steel Disk,surge brakes are sitting in my garage after replaceing both axels after 2 years trailering in Salt Waters.
Yes I fresh water cleaned them.
I now have no brakes and suits me fine.
I will take off the failed rusted support plates and install almost new disk brakes on new axel. Main problem was support bracket on Aluminum trailer but Galvinized Axel with welded plates for Brake supports were only spray painted and lasted 2years max.
Don't Buy a Aluminum/galvinized Trailer with Axels that are not galvinized for brake brackets.
Spray painting these plates is no good and will rot out in 1-1.5 years.


Dave

I switched to disks and removed the residual valve on the actuator, but did not change it

This works fine, for 5 seasons now

[Boblee]

See you are in Aust so some of the replies aren't relevant?, interesting that it didn't have disc's standard or was it a S/H import?
The standard hitch is actually illegal here (size) and you are supposed to have a handbrake in NSW I argued it for years and then gave up and put an Aussie one on when the standard one failed, they would be cheaper and far better.
Just replaced some of the bearings on our new trailer as the seals let go and found the bearings on the old trailer are the same as the inners on the new aust standard ones for ford axles the could/should be also.
Actually have my old discs/axle here but would be different mounting I presume.

[Steve K]

I switched to disks and removed the residual valve on the actuator, but did not change it

This works fine, for 5 seasons now

Catigale,

I've read about this. I have an old drum actuator, I could maybe rebuild. Just needs a master cylinder kit and a new damper. (old 26X trailer, likely same actuator as yours)

Where, exactly is the residual valve?
Any drilling involved? (read something about drilling something somewhere....... yes, no )

Thanks,
Steve K.

[Catigale]

Its a restrictor valve in the body of the MC. You have to remove the snap ring, pull out the piston, and then just pull out the restrictor valve from the MC, then put it all back together. Ill try to find a diagram (Champion trailer maybe??)

See manual below. You have to have the right connector to the brake system (small orfice for drum, open for disc. part 17 in manual)

http://www.championtrailers.com/content ... manual.pdf

[Tomfoolery]

Where, exactly is the residual valve?
Any drilling involved? (read something about drilling something somewhere....... yes, no )

I holds some small pressure against the wheel cylinders when the MC is re-extended.* Drum brakes require this residual pressure, disc brakes do not and in fact should not have any residual pressure, as that will make them drag. It's inside the MC, and folks often remove them when switching over to disc. If you're replacing the MC, just get the type designed for the type of brakes you're using. Those Dico types come in both flavors, and you can't tell by looking at the unit which style they're configured for.

*Probably just a pair of check valves in opposing directions, with one being spring-loaded to hold some minimum pressure, the other to allow unrestricted flow towards the wheel cylinders.

[Steve K]

Its a restrictor valve in the body of the MC. You have to remove the snap ring, pull out the piston, and then just pull out the restrictor valve from the MC, then put it all back together. Ill try to find a diagram (Champion trailer maybe??)

See manual below. You have to have the right connector to the brake system (small orfice for drum, open for disc. part 17 in manual)

http://www.championtrailers.com/content ... manual.pdf

So, should be easy to find. I'll tear into it one of these days soon. Sounds as though the "drilling out the orifice" I seem to remember reading somewhere, refers to drilling out the part #17 you mentioned.

The unit I have is the Titan-Dico model 60 for drums (lever lock), just like the pdf link you posted. I should be able to kit the MC easily. Then I'll just have to find the new damper shock. Of course, I still need to get it off the old trailer tongue. MacGregor sure welded the crap out if it when it was installed originally

By the way..... You should have seen this old 26X trailer. It was given to me by a friend, when he got a new (fantastic) trailer for his X boat. The tongue was so rusted that I grabbed the top of the ladder and bent it over to the ground, where upon the main square tube broke apart right behind said ladder. I have wondered how it didn't break while he was towing the boat, long before he retired it. Lucky I guess.

Thanks,
Steve K.

[Boblee]

Lucky Drifter
If you need to replace anything on the old trailer look at replacing with Aust standard parts, depending on cond might even be worthwhile replacing whole axle, but for sure use an aussie standard hydraulic coupler as it will be 50mm and have a handbrake and easy lockout for reversing, use a 3t one otherwise if you upgrade your trailer and use drums again you will need to replace it again.
I kept discs on due to better saltwater tolerance (galv and stainless sleeves) but even the original discs were perfect but are getting plenty of surface rust now out in the weather.
Before replacing with std Mac (UFP)drums just check an aussie standard set won't fit first, might save some money and be easy to get bits for.