Detached transom (ballast) valve handle

[richter372001]

Hi, all

Has anyone had the transom valve handle detach?
I noticed the water was not flowing out the last time I opened the valve in order to unload the ballast.
Sure enough, pulling the handle up did not open the gate.

Any experience in fixing this? How is it attached to the gate, i.e. what does the mechanism look like?
A simply screw-in?
I tried screwing the handle back into the "black box", with no obvious result - it still would not pull up the gate.

Thanks for all answers and tips

Srdjan

[mastreb]

It's a simple screw-in. You should be able to take a look and rotate it back on. If you're missing a part, BWY sells a replacement handle and extension.

[rwmiller56]

Yep, the handle itself a simple screw-in. Provided it hasn't broken or sheared. Mine broke (sheared) right above the gate valve, so it wasn't the handle that broke, instead it was the piece that attaches to the gate valve. I had to replace the entire valve assembly. Blue Water Yachts had it in stock.

[richter372001]

Thank you.
I will try to screw it in and pull.
Tried while on the water and no dice.
Will try it a bit more.
I guess there is no way to replace the assembly or parts while on water?
I hate to take the boat out midseason, but I might change the keel line, too, and apply a layer of antifouling...

[Capt Smitty]

I installed my new valve with a big O-ring. The screws thread into the fiberglass. I suppose it would be possible to change one on the water. But if you do as much damage to the gelcoat as I did, when I pried off the old valve, you'll want it on the hard. They were generous with the glue. The screw holes would no longer grip the screws well, so I so I went with nuts & bolts.

[mastreb]

If you don't want to deal with it during the season, just force the gate closed with some needle nose pliers with the tank full and deal with when you pull out.

I don't think you'll be able to use a proper sealant on the gate valve below the waterline.

[richter372001]

No, I would not do any extensive stuff on water. I have another small issue or two to take care of, plus I might apply another coat of anti-fouling, since the current one is from June 2013. Probably won't last till end of the September...
Not sure what to do if I have to replace the valve.
I sincerely hope this old one can be fixed and reinstalled.
Thanks!

[Russ]

No, I would not do any extensive stuff on water. I have another small issue or two to take care of, plus I might apply another coat of anti-fouling, since the current one is from June 2013. Probably won't last till end of the September...
Not sure what to do if I have to replace the valve.
I sincerely hope this old one can be fixed and reinstalled.
Thanks!

June of 2013 isn't that old for anti-fouling. Do you have a lot of growth forming?

I believe this is the gate valve. It's just a standard RV waste valve.
http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-Twis ... gate+valve

It likely broke because the seals are tight. If you reattach the handle, you should probably try to squirt some lubricant in there as well to get the rubber gaskets loose. Hard to do when the boat is in the water. Luckily it's easy to pull the boat out on a trailer. Or get a bunch of heavy people to stand on the bow to lift the valve out of the water while you spray some lubricant in the gaskets.

I agree that replacing the valve in the water is next to impossible. Keeping a full ballast tank isn't that bad. I leave mine in all season and only empty it when hauling for the season.

[richter372001]

Thanks, guys. Sound like it will wait until after the season.
I try not to apply anti-fouling more often that once every two years.
However, I did notice considerable growth toward the end of the last 2-year period. That is why I might do a quick layer.

[RobertB]

Do you have a trailer? If so, should be easy to pull it out of the water for an hour to change the valve.