Need help and Advice for my 26M

[bedouin]

I can use any advice on all the different repairs that I need to make or not make....

This is my first weekend where I can not take out the Mac and I am stressing....

Ok, two weeks ago I took my out of the water for the first time in a year since I was going to be out of town and needed to do some repairs.

Had a friend of a friend agree to take my trailer to the boat ramp while I motored there. My first time to bring the Mac onto my trailer and it was very easy. I was still at the helm and the friend of the friend was ratcheting up the boat. As I jumped out and he was hammering the pin that locks the gears in place and the next thing I know it's in the water, so the boat backs down. We had an HD tie strap and it gets the boat home safely. Now I have to replace the locking pin and it looks like just that one piece is replaceable as I see some bolts in there. This is a stock 2008 aluminum trailer.

Next up is the engine. A 2008 Evinrude ETEC. I am guessing that it has about 200 to 250 hours on it (would love to have a simple way to find out - like software on my iPad with the proper plug-in cable). Should I do the 300 hour maintenance now or wait??? Never had a problem in the year that I have owned it except recently about a month ago (happened twice) when I went to shift gears while in neutral the rpms went high and I did not know how to bring it down but to put it in gear, ugh!!
I have seen Barnacle Bills Marine Supply in NJ (forum) selling the 300 hr kit for $180 with shipping but that post was a few years ago. It did give me some idea as to what to replace. I like the idea of doing the lower unit. Wanting to do this myself so need a manual too (I have read where the plugs need to face a certain way). Any comments, suggestions on what to do and not to do would be great. I have yet to contact a local Evinrude dealer but plan to after the holidays.

The next problem which is associated with the engine is the hydraulic pump which sits partially in the water. It has some corrosion on it and some paint bubbling. I have engine touch up paint so I will tackle that but I want to add some bottom paint which now leads to the next problem.

TPO put on some nice bottom paint and I was quite surprised how clean it was when I took her out of the water after a year. I do scrape barnacles every now and then with a plastic scrapper. I have tried to get a hold of TPO but no luck. How do I match the bottom paint?? I would hate to have to take it all off and put new on. I heard it is easy to add the "same" type of bottom paint. I just glanced at the recent PS mag and it has some reviews on the best bottom paint. Mine is blue if that helps any..... again any comments, suggestions on what to do and not to do would be great.

I did get some New Glass2 and looking forward to using that on the deck and hull. I have the fast blue hull but I can't tell the difference

Bought new rudder shims from Brian so looking forward to seeing how they work.

And my ongoing project of replacing my headstay with a 5/16 from BWY. I did not take pictures of how my stock furler went together so now I am not quite sure what goes where and I sure don't want to make a mistake on that and have my mast come crashing down. I contacted BWY but they could not give me any detailed info on how to put it back together. I also need to know how many nuts go on the new HD headstay wire and how far down on the threaded end do I adjust it to for proper tension??? Once I get this down the first time all is well.

Along with this project is the mooring light. I have the light and got the LED replacement for it (and for the running light too) and the matching 3 way toggle switch so will need to get on with that project too. I have posted about this before and think I can do it using the same wires inside the cabin.

Finally, it is putting on my 150 genny which was what started all of this months ago and the projects seemed to snowball.

TIA for any tips, suggestions or comments.

Matthew

[Russ]

As I jumped out and he was hammering the pin that locks the gears in place and the next thing I know it's in the water, so the boat backs down. We had an HD tie strap and it gets the boat home safely. Now I have to replace the locking pin and it looks like just that one piece is replaceable as I see some bolts in there. This is a stock 2008 aluminum trailer.

You mean the trailer winch? I may have the manual for that in my boat folder. I'll see if I can find it.

I would hate to have to take it all off and put new on. I heard it is easy to add the "same" type of bottom paint.

Are you sure you need to repaint? If it looks good, maybe it's okay for another season.

And my ongoing project of replacing my headstay with a 5/16 from BWY. I did not take pictures of how my stock furler went together so now I am not quite sure what goes where and I sure don't want to make a mistake on that and have my mast come crashing down. I contacted BWY but they could not give me any detailed info on how to put it back together. I also need to know how many nuts go on the new HD headstay wire and how far down on the threaded end do I adjust it to for proper tension??? Once I get this down the first time all is well.

What furler do you have? Is it the CDI or the Black (open) Macgregor furler? That's what I have and it's pretty easy to figure out. You tighten the nuts to tension and lock with the second nut. I seem to remember a pin for safety so it can't unscrew. Sorry, got no pics.

Along with this project is the mooring light. I have the light and got the LED replacement for it (and for the running light too) and the matching 3 way toggle switch so will need to get on with that project too. I have posted about this before and think I can do it using the same wires inside the cabin.

Hardest part of this is getting a wire to the top. Both anchor and steaming can share the same pair of wires. I did. My first goal was to run a wire from the top to the steaming light and join them there. The hole was too small and I had no patience to fish it through the small hole, so I ran it to the base of the mast and spliced them together there. Get a 12v source to test, like a jump pack or even a 9v battery may have enough to light the LEDs. Then test the polarity one way and then reverse it. The lights should operate opposite when polarity is reversed. If not, reverse the wiring and try again.
Down below, the switch will work exactly the same, but you will add that DPDT switch to reverse the polarity at the panel.

I was lucky and just snaked down the mast, others not so much.
Try this.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1490

Wire the switch like this.
http://www.instructables.com/id/HOW-TO% ... ersing-po/

[NiceAft]

Matthew,

Are you thinking of waxing/polishing the deck If Newglass2 is what I think it is, don't use it on the deck That is the very last place on a boat you want nice and shiny, i.e. slippery.


Ray

[Herschel]

Can't say much about the complicated stuff, but I have used NewGlass2. It does not work like a wax. It brings back the shine and protects the surface for a reasonable time, but is not slippery. I put six coats all over my 26X, including the smooth decks and non-skid areas, and have never noticed any slipperiness at all. I think it is good product for the whole boat. That is my $.02 worth. Best of luck on the other stuff.

[NiceAft]

Thanks Herschel,

It just seemed to be a slippery substance. I'm glad I asked.

Ray

[seahouse]

Re: the corrosion. Check to make sure that the sacrificial anode on the engine support bracket is at least partially below the waterline. On mine it was mounted too high and I had some corrosion on the bracket and tilt housing before I noticed it (it was hidden inside the motor mounting bracket and I didn't even know it was there- but the heads of the two mounting screws for it are visible). The bracket and tilt housing should be electrically continuous enough that the anode protects them both.

Hopefully your rpm issue is a mechanical one – you might check that the shift and throttle linkages between the lever and engine are secure and tight where they should be, and free and loose where they should be.

-B.

[bedouin]

I would hate to have to take it all off and put new on. I heard it is easy to add the "same" type of bottom paint.

Are you sure you need to repaint? If it looks good, maybe it's okay for another season.

I do need to touch up (with bottom paint) the engine bracket and tilt area. They even had the water valve painted and glad they did because it got pretty bad over a year. I still need to give it a good clean now that it is out of the water. I will look for the sacrificial anode on the engine support bracket, that could be a big help.

And my ongoing project of replacing my headstay with a 5/16 from BWY. I did not take pictures of how my stock furler went together so now I am not quite sure what goes where and I sure don't want to make a mistake on that and have my mast come crashing down. I contacted BWY but they could not give me any detailed info on how to put it back together. I also need to know how many nuts go on the new HD headstay wire and how far down on the threaded end do I adjust it to for proper tension??? Once I get this down the first time all is well.

What furler do you have? Is it the CDI or the Black (open) Macgregor furler? That's what I have and it's pretty easy to figure out. You tighten the nuts to tension and lock with the second nut. I seem to remember a pin for safety so it can't unscrew. Sorry, got no pics.

Yes, I have the Black Macgregor furler. Looks like I am missing some nuts too (where the heck did they go???) Is there a washer or two on there somewhere? Yes, I do have the safety pin. Any idea how far up the threaded end of the headstay should I start the first nut for tension? Midway?

[bedouin]

First time using quotes, didn't do so well.

Think I found my winch manual from the PO. Time to take a ride over to my boat and start re-assessing with all this new information from you guys.

Also read a little about the Etec and NMEA 2000 network to my Garamin 441s. Maybe this will at least give me the hours if I can figure it out!

[March]

Cool!

Make sure that the 2008 ETEC does give you information compatible with NMEA 2000. I know mine doesn't (only the 60 HP or 75 HP upwards do) but the Evinrude guys changed the computer output at some point in the past). Besides, I am not sure that the Garmin accepts the ETEC data--Lowrance does, as far as I know.

Most certainly, do the 300 hour maintenance with a qualified mechanic. Maintenance is required after the first 5 years, and 3 years after, but unless you know for sure that the previous owner had done it, you might want to play it safe. I wouldn't rely on the kit Barnacle Bill advertises on the ETEC site; the motor is very complex and you may quickly run into trouble that would be even more expensive to fix. A certified ETEC mechanic can hook the engine to a computer and give you all sorts of useful data. The engine revving up on its own would worry me; it happened to me a couple of times on the water, but it never kept on revving when I put it back in neutral.

Any motor typically runs very well until it stops running very well, so the fact that the ETEC is working fine just now means very little.

[Berber Boy]

First time using quotes, didn't do so well.

Think I found my winch manual from the PO. Time to take a ride over to my boat and start re-assessing with all this new information from you guys.

Also read a little about the Etec and NMEA 2000 network to my Garamin 441s. Maybe this will at least give me the hours if I can figure it out!

In order to Connect your ETEC 60 to your GPS Plotter you need an engine specific connection cable that connects the engine into the NMEA 2000 Network and thereby to the Plotter. I have a Lowrance and it works fine and gives me the engine hours total and per trip. You have to setup the Plotter System to recignise it but the details come with the cable. Mine works very well.

Dave

[bedouin]

Once I find a local Evinrude dealer maybe he can assist me with the correct cable for the E-Tec and if possible (still need to double check) to the Garmin. I did read that my 2008 E-Tec is compatible with NMEA 2000.

So much to do and now that I am back home and had 3 days off with no boat to go out on.... I am in withdrawals!!

[RobertB]

Instead of adding a switch for your mast mooring light, just use you two existing switches and add a relay behind them. The relay will reverse the polarity to the two mast lights depending on if the running light switch is on or off.

[mastreb]

Once I find a local Evinrude dealer maybe he can assist me with the correct cable for the E-Tec and if possible (still need to double check) to the Garmin. I did read that my 2008 E-Tec is compatible with NMEA 2000.

So much to do and now that I am back home and had 3 days off with no boat to go out on.... I am in withdrawals!!

This is the exact cable: http://www.boatersland.com/low120-62.ht ... Aj6x8P8HAQ

2008 and newer ETEC 40-115 engines are NMEA 2000 compatible, so you just squeaked in under the line.

You will also need this kit if you have no other NMEA 2000 devices on your network:

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/lowrance ... AmDL8P8HAQ

It gives you a complete NMEA 2000 network that you will then connect to your chart plotter and your engine cable. Future NMEA devices (such as an autopilot, wind instrument, rudder reference, fuel tank senders, etc.) will only require a cable and a "T" adapter.

[RobertB]

Thanks Matt for the cable P/N. I have the EV-100 Tiller on the way. I will be combining a Seatalk-NG RayMarine backbone with a standard NMEA 2000 branch for the engine and Garmin 546s hookups. Really curious what cables will be included with the RayMarine system, there are not enough listed in the included cable kit, hope some come with each major component.

Now, still trying to figure out where I want to mount the control head (and the rest for that matter). Will wait until it is in hand to work something up.

[bedouin]

Once I find a local Evinrude dealer maybe he can assist me with the correct cable for the E-Tec and if possible (still need to double check) to the Garmin. I did read that my 2008 E-Tec is compatible with NMEA 2000.

So much to do and now that I am back home and had 3 days off with no boat to go out on.... I am in withdrawals!!

This is the exact cable: http://www.boatersland.com/low120-62.ht ... Aj6x8P8HAQ

2008 and newer ETEC 40-115 engines are NMEA 2000 compatible, so you just squeaked in under the line.

You will also need this kit if you have no other NMEA 2000 devices on your network:

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/lowrance ... AmDL8P8HAQ

It gives you a complete NMEA 2000 network that you will then connect to your chart plotter and your engine cable. Future NMEA devices (such as an autopilot, wind instrument, rudder reference, fuel tank senders, etc.) will only require a cable and a "T" adapter.

I noticed these network cables are for a Lowrance. Will it also work for my Garmin?