Nissan NS5B 5hp Outboard water pump, lower end repair

[RobertB]

Interesting - I never asked a question

Either A)
The question was implied by the apparent ambiguity of the statement, which the answer addresses. The quality of being "good" is imparted to the question by the somewhat arcane nature of the information in the answer. I think there might be others on the forum who are curious about the same topic, particularly since some have experienced engine problems that are low octane related.
Or B)
This is Jeopardy and I should have posed the answer in the form of a question, so that the original statement did not need to be a question at all.
- B.

I never stated anything ambiguous - I stated explicitly what the government regulators and the scientific engineering journals state and can back my statements up with authoritative publications and personal experience. Higher octane fuel is only beneficial for engines requiring fuel that resists pre-detonation to resist knocking (and I own three vehicles that require this fuel). The additive packages in the USA are required by law to be the same across the different octane levels. Do you have authoritative published information to back your claim that running a higher octane in our MacBoats in engines that do not require it is beneficial to anyone other than the oil executives?
Too many people think they are doing themselves a favor by buying the more expensive fuel - they are not.

BTW, For those of us in EPA target states, like most of the eastern seaboard of the USA, fuel formulations are highly controlled - we cannot buy ethanol free fuel. My approach, just use it before it gets old. If it is to sit over the winter, add stabilizer. I have not once had a problem starting my ETEC60 after fuel has sat over the winter.

EDIT: there are areas outside of the EPA control zone (such as the eastern shore of Maryland) where ethanol free fuel is available.

[seahouse]

No need for you to back up statements that I agree with, and that everyone else already knows or can easily find out.

Also:

RobertB wrote:

Unless the engine has a compression ratio and timing that requires premium to resist pre-detonation, using premium is a waste of money.

(BTW – I'm assuming you meant pre-ignition or detonation).

You were wondering what the reason was for the recommending of the use of higher octane fuel in some situations, and I gave some that came to mind. There are likely many more situations than these few, but using higher- octane fuel to get an engine running, and running well without destroying itself, would not be considered a waste of money.

Glad to see you have avoided fuel degradation issues, as I have, but I am not saying that a suggested solution (ie using higher octane fuel than normally would be required) that is directed to someone having issues with it should be used by someone who is not experiencing that problem (such as us). The situation and circumstances others experience can be different from ours.

- B.

[RobertB]

Really, you had to make a correction about pre-detonation vs pre-ignition? Same thing - let it go. Relax. Go sailing.

[raycarlson]

RobertB, shouldn't you've used a (,) instead of a (.) after the word Relax

[seahouse]

Really, you had to make a correction about pre-detonation vs pre-ignition? Same thing - let it go. Relax. Go sailing.

Um. No, they are certainly not the same thing. Now that you bring it up. They are actually two distinctly definable, separate, and unique events...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

As Ray says; let it go. Relax, go sailing!

-B.

[NavySailor]

So - back to our regularly scheduled programming ... while replace the water pump I noticed that the linkage which connects the R-N-F gears wasn't connected. I think the motor was just stuck in neutral the whole time! Of course, now I cannot get the stupid thing back together because of the linkage!! ARGH!!! Part #18 is the bane of my existence It's nearly impossible to get both of those rods in the right place and linked up while trying to re-attach the lower assembly to the upper.

And in the process of trying to get it back together I broke the gear selector handle!

So, new gear handle in hand (ha ha) and I cannot get the top of the motor to come apart so that I can install it. (Did I mention the maintaince on this stupid motor is keeping me out of the water - so aggravating!)

[Catigale]

RobertB, shouldn't you've used a (,) instead of a (.) after the word Relax

I accidentally stepped on that comma with my Oxfords, it gave me a pause to clause.

Navy..I remember the linkage was a Charlie Foxtrot to get together right...good luck. Check my link above in case I put hints in there.

[NavySailor]

I hate to admit defeat - so I won't. I will admit that I am going to take it to my local outboard pro to re-assemble!

[RobertB]

Really, you had to make a correction about pre-detonation vs pre-ignition? Same thing - let it go. Relax. Go sailing.

Um. No, they are certainly not the same thing. Now that you bring it up. They are actually two distinctly definable, separate, and unique events...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

As Ray says; let it go. Relax, go sailing!

-B.

Give it a rest, no-one except you benefits from such nitpicking.

Now, how about a little game to lighten things up.
Who identifies with a character from the Big Bang Theory TV show. I will start and pick Leonard. Seahouse, you next.

[seahouse]

Actually, notice above I was willing to overlook it by making the assumption of what you meant, and even said so.

It doesn't matter to me (or anybody else, I suspect) who is right, it matters what is right, so please excuse my pragmatism, I do not intend to be personal.

I, along with the other posters others here have an interest in giving Navy Sailor a helping hand in fixing his motor. Not sure what the tangent had to do with that?

But OK, I will play. I pick Penny. Because I like you so much.

Navy Sailor – Well you gave it a good shot. If you hadn't tried to fix it yourself you would never have known any other way whether you could have or not. Now you know that having a mechanic finish the work is a good choice. You win some, you lose some. You lose them all if you don't try.

-B.

[NavySailor]

You win some, you lose some. You lose them all if you don't try.

-B.

Absolutely!

[NavySailor]

Well the good news is that I finally got the lower and the upper put back together!

I filled up the test tank, mounted the motor, gave her a full pulls and noticed pooling of fuel in the front lower case below the carb. UGH.

Upon inspection I discovered that when I put the carb bolts back in that 1/2 of the gasket had fallen out of place. So I took it all apart, put it back together and as I was tightening one of the bolts back on...it snapped.

Victory was so close, but I'm foiled again from repairing this motor. AGHHHH!!!!!

Ordered replacement bolts yesterday. Going to try and get the busted bolt out tonight. Wish me luck - I'm going to need it.



In other news - I've got a lead on an affordable 4-stroke 8hp motor. Question for the group, will a short shaft work ok on my M25? I have the Garelick adjustable motor bracket designed for 4-stroke motors.
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/garelick ... oCtPzw_wcB

[Tomfoolery]

In other news - I've got a lead on an affordable 4-stroke 8hp motor. Question for the group, will a short shaft work ok on my M25? I have the Garelick adjustable motor bracket designed for 4-stroke motors.

Assuming the mount is already on the boat, lower it all the way, and measure from the top of the plate to the imaginary waterline. That's your shaft length. It may or may not be long enough, and even if it is, the power head may be too low, but that's all I've got.

Who put the lower unit back on - you, or did you have a shop finish it?

[Catigale]

Well the good news is that I finally got the lower and the upper put back together!

I filled up the test tank, mounted the motor, gave her a full pulls and noticed pooling of fuel in the front lower case below the carb. UGH.

Upon inspection I discovered that when I put the carb bolts back in that 1/2 of the gasket had fallen out of place. So I took it all apart, put it back together and as I was tightening one of the bolts back on...it snapped.

Victory was so close, but I'm foiled again from repairing this motor. AGHHHH!!!!!

Ordered replacement bolts yesterday. Going to try and get the busted bolt out tonight. Wish me luck - I'm going to need it.



In other news - I've got a lead on an affordable 4-stroke 8hp motor. Question for the group, will a short shaft work ok on my M25? I have the Garelick adjustable motor bracket designed for 4-stroke motors.
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/garelick ... oCtPzw_wcB

Is the broken stud in a blind or open hole?

You can drill these out if you centre punch it exactly in the middle to start, use a brand new Ti sharp drill bit, and work up in 3-5,drill bit steps. Alternatively , no shame to take the carb off to a machine shop with a drill press, which is the right tool for that job. Straighten threads with a tap when done.

[Tomfoolery]

That screw scales to 3/16" off your pic. I don't think I've ever used a screw extractor that small, if they even make them that small, but in a pinch, you could drill it out and if you have to, drill it oversized (or metric) and retap.

You could also try a left-handed drill bit, once you've got a good pilot hole drilled in it. With any luck, it'll start turning out while you're drilling. Harbor Freight even sells a 13-piece kit for $10. I rather doubt any of those bits will last more than a hole in SS, but all you need it for is the last rebore, to hopefully twist it out. Turn the bit real slow, and hopefully it grabs and starts turning the screw.