Raymarine EV-100 Wheel autopilot install

[proboxer]

Thanks for that March.

The pictures that were posted by mastreb look like what I need to do, so I'm hoping that he will reply.

[March]

Mastreb wrote:
After putting the wheel back on, I fixed the motor in place on the port side with a 6" Shaeffer 316 stainless strap that I'd bent into a bracket because the motor is an odd size and the included helm pin only works on a column mount.

Just noticed this observation. It appears that mastreb didn't use what he calls the "helm pin" (a bar about 1/2 inch in diameter) that is supposed to provide a point of leverage for the entire system. The "donut" has two oblong holes that accommodate it. Instead, he attached the motor itself by way of a bracket to provide the point of leverage.

There was a discussion on the Raymarine site, and the Raymarine guys advised against that. I didn't think it would be a good idea either, even before I read the discussion.

Just saying...

But maybe the new model has a beefed-up motor which can be used as a point of leverage and the "donut" has no holes in it. Easy to check out.

[mastreb]

The helm pin provided by RayMarine is made for a round stainless column helm and won't work with the toothpaste pedestal of the later 26Ms. I tried numerous geometries but it wasn't going to happen.

I bought the stainless steel strap at WestMarine and bent it to shape by hand by wrapping it around the motor, and bolted it in place with pan head machine bolts. It was my intent to replace that motor mount later on, but it's been working well so I see no need to do so.

The autopilot connects to the Garmin via your NMEA 2000 network. The EV-1 does not have the older NMEA-0183 ports. An additional complication is the fact that RayMarine uses their own style of connectors called SeaTalkNG, so you'll need to buy a SeaTalkNG to NMEA-2000 (DeviceNet) cable to connect to the Garmin. Run that cable from the SeaTalk 5-port breakout connector (I believe there's one open spot left) to the Garmin and you'll be good. You may also be able to run from the 2nd port of the P70 control pilot head directly to the Garmin with the cable instead and that may work, although it's non-standard wiring.

Matt

[Highlander]

I cut the pin off & made this mounting plate & welded the pin onto it , here it is painted black
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 0017-1.jpg

before I painted it
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010021.jpg

http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010018.jpg

worked out well as I had to move my rpm gauge lower on the pedestal so it resolved the problem of what to do with the hole !
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... 010017.jpg


J

[proboxer]

Matt,

My Garmin is N2K compatible. I'm running a backbone cable up the helm with a T and SeaTalk spur to the p70. Can I remove the terminator and add a short backbone and another T, the DeviceNet cable to the Garmin, and the terminator at the end of the T? Or can I run the DeviceNet from the Garmin directly into the second connector in the back of the p70?

Highlander,

That looks great. The problem I'm not any kind of fabricator. Any chance you would make up one of those for a price?

[proboxer]

Matt,
Sorry for all the questions. I don't see anything at West Marine like the strap that you used. Is there a part number that you could share?

The mounting location where you put the ACU-100 is not perfectly straight up and down. Does it matter if it has a little bit of an angle to it?

[mastreb]

Yes, you should be able to do exactly what you've described with the NMEA backbone cable in your helm. I don't exactly know what happens with the 2nd connector on the P70 as its not NMEA-2K standard wiring. I think it can only be used to daisy chain another device when the P70 is wired from a spur-cable rather than a backbone cable.

Position of the ACU-100 does not matter, so long as it doesn't collect water or anything. Only the attitude of the 9-axis sensor is important.

It's a shaeffer stainless steel tang: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/schaefer- ... 60_007_003

Was on the shelf at the West Marine here in San Diego, but it's the largest WM in the world so you may need to order it online. I believe I used the 8" one but it was a bit long. You'll want to model with a piece of paper and buy the right length. To avoid the problem of having the motor shaft take all the rotational stress, you could also add a long bolt through from the front of the helm into the pin hole on the donut.

[March]

Matreb wrote:
To avoid the problem of having the motor shaft take all the rotational stress, you could also add a long bolt through from the front of the helm into the pin hole on the donut.

I advocate that most earnestly. You can do the bolt on the side, too--there are some mods in that respect

[RobertB]

I just finished the install of the tiller version. Tradeoff: Wheel version one can disengage to remove all influence on manual steering but there is the fact that the actuator is nearly the size of the wheel. Tiller version is out of sight but definitely adds resistance when manually steering (but can be disengaged with a quick trip down into the tunnel that we affectionately call the "rear berth").
I now have a fuel level readout on my chartplotter
The autopilot and chartplotter are mounted on a swiveling mount on the pedestal
The actuator is mounted between a mount glassed onto the hull and a custom bracket that clamps on the rudder cross member

[seahouse]

Some nice work there, Robert.
-B.

[March]

Very nice! Two questions.

What kind of NMEA output have you from the GPS? My present setup includes a 188 Garmin, that supplies a 0182 NMEA protocol to the Raymarine autopilot. It worked well last summer, but I plan to replace the GPS with a 541 or 546 Garmin (full maps, so I won't have to dicker around with expansion cartridges) which, I think, will supply a 2000 NMEA. Looks like I would have to include a device that "translates" the 2000 into 0182 for the autopilot to read it correctly. Or: did you use another type of connection?

Do you happen to know whether the 546 Garmin can use the same transducer and the same plug on your steering column as earlier models? I would hate to have to rewire the GPS. The round plug is Garmin proprietary, but maybe they have changed the configuration of the wires that go into the plug. It would be so convenient to simply plug the newer model into the old wiring

Unfortunately, I won't be able to connect the ETEC to the Garmin. Earlier ETEC 50 HP models don't have that capability. Oh well, when I update the engine some time in the future...

Loved the little platform you made on top of the pedestal

[RobertB]

The Garmin 546s (the one I have) is NMEA 2000 and NMEA 183 capable. I use the NMEA 0183 to hook up to the VHF radio (to provide GPS - someday I will program in the DSC stuff). The NMEA 2000 is standard Lowrance generic type - if you have the Raymarine SeaTalkng (different connectors, same NMEA 2000 protocol), either buy the RayMarine spur adapter or just cut off the connector from the Lowrance cable and splice on a SeaTalkng cable end (I did it both ways).
The Garmin 546s uses a dual band transducer - I would call Garmin to check compatibility.
The cartridge for the Garmin is really nice to have. Not only does it provide satellite views, it provides the ability to generate routes to feed to the autopilot.
The platform is actually temporary - made of bamboo flooring and PVC lumber. Once I figure out it works to my liking, I will remake in light gray Starboard. I use nylatron plates for the bearings. It swivels about 50 degrees to either side.

[mastreb]

Fantastic install Robert. Personally I think the tiller is the better way to go. Besides being big and a bit clumsy, the wheel makes noise in the cockpit that doesn't bother me but does bother the admiral.

And the 26M helm could definitely use some resistance in my opinion.

Matt

[jimmac99]

Having read several accounts of the benifits of installing a Raymarine Autopilot, I went ahead and bought one. Not being confident of my mechanical skills, I had the unit installed by a marina in Stuart, Florida. I downloaded and printed Matt's detailed installation instructions and gave them to the fellow who was going to do the install. Since I too have a 26M the instructions were quite helpful. Mastreb, I have to add, has been a great help. He answered all my questions and provided solutions when I ran into problems.

Briefly, I will try to explain my experiences thus far. Trailered the boat from Stuart Yachts and launched the Nebula at South Dade Marina. (great folks too) Took the ICW to Marathon where we switched over to Hawks Channel to our Christmas in Key West. This is where I got to first use and enjoy the autopilot. I dialed it in according to Matt's instructions and it worked quite well. However, once we got to Key West, I began to notice that my batteries were running low. While trying to figure where the drain was coming from I checked the autopilot compass and control panel and discovered I was unable to turn them off. The two units were silently running in the background 24/7. This was not good or expected. I have a 80watt Kyocera solar panel on the aft mast holding cradle that had met my electrical/ recharging needs for the past two years but was now being overwhelmed by the constant drain from the autopilot. A couple of days without sun and I'd likely need to replace my two deep cycle batteries. What to do? Matt suggested a kill switch and provided a link to the necessary part sold by West Marine. Again, not trusting my ability to properly track down the offending wires I called a local mobile marine repair outfit. The repairmen left an hour ago and was able to get the kill switch working properly without have to shut down the entire boat. This was very important as my wife and I are essentailly living on the boat and having lights at night, while the autopilot is off, was essential. We have a few more days in Key West before heading back up Hawk Channel toward Pennekamp and probably Key Largo. If any further problems come to light I will post them at that time. We are still currently entertaining the idea of going to the Bahamas in April.
I hope this account might be useful for anyone else going forward with the Raymarine autopilot. Although I've only used the unit for 3-4 days, the preliminary impression is that it is a wonderful addition and I can see why many sailors swear by them. The additional noise is a small price to pay for the convienence. Besides, it makes a great excuse to turn up the stereo.

Jim

[March]

Yes, a main power switch is needed, on the lines that feed the juice to the main computer. That was confirmed by the Raymarine people. You don't need to worry about the fluxgate compass since it draws power from the computer. Ditto for the display.