Tacking in high winds

[Herschel]

Herschel, I use a line attached from the top of the working jib to a block by the tack and run back to the cockpit to douse my jib. I makes it a one-man job to lower the jib in under 5 seconds.

In my salad days, my first boat did not have a furler. I really needed to get the sails down fast, as I did a lot of sailing right up to docks/moorings (comes from having a sketchy outboard).

I made a Gerr Downhaul. https://www.google.ca/search?q=gerr+dow ... 00&bih=759.

And, of course, a pretty picture to go with it:


It ultimately was not effective though. The downhaul line would pull the head down first, then try to bunch up from the clew to the tack. The line, rapped around the ball, while being hardened would rapidly wear holes in the sail.

Interesting concept. Your link led me to this insightful link that gives a nice 3-4 part tutorial on sail setting. Thought it might be useful to this thread, as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TttqFylquFs

[drams_1999]

One thing I don't see mentioned is how quickly you should put the helm over when you decide to tack. Too quickly will make the rudders act like a break and stop your momentum. Too slowly and your boat ends up in irons and falls off on the original tack. It took me some practice but I learned the art of tacking in my M in most winds comes with a combination of increasing speed before tacking, picking the wave timing, putting the helm over at just the right speed, and backwinding the jib.

[Québec 1]

Don't forget your traveller.

[DaveC426913]

Don't forget your traveller.

Traveller? What's a traveller?

[Highlander]

Don't forget your traveller.

Traveller? What's a traveller?

Well that could b a travel companion or two or more Mmmmm !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0w-_9MT-ZQ
J

[BOAT]

You might be trying to point too high during the tack - pointing high creates a lot of it's own wind dynamics you don't need during a tack - back off the wind to a beam reach first, THEN tack all the way to a beam reach on the other side (180 degrees) - then after the boat has it's legs again you can tighten everything up for a close pointing configuration, but there is no need to use a close haul configuration to start a tack. And there is no need to tack from a position pointing high from starboard to port pointing high again. Back off a bit.

Before you make your turn lower the daggerboard all the way down and crank the wheel over hard and fast - release the genoa sheet before the boat makes the turn - just let it fly - don't try to get the genoa around the mast - just let it fly. Make your turn a full 180 degrees - go from a beam reach to a beam reach - then deal with the genny after the boat has turned.

The heavier your boat is the harder it is to turn - also - the genoa will drag the rudders though the water so that's why it's good to release that jib sheet very early in the turn and hold the wheel hard over for a long time - you want the boat to slam over to the other side. AFTER the boat is over on it's other side you can start pulling in sheets and getting property tightened up to point into the wind.

If you furl the genny in before tacking you need to move the jib sheets to the track on the top of the cabin or the sail will stall out because lines around the stays will cause the jib to heave when you tack - don't run a furled genoa outside the stays in heavy wind or you will heave-to when the boat starts to turn.

[sailboatmike]

I agree with Boat on most things, however the heavier boat has a greater inertia so will keep moving longer without power, it you come off the wind a bit to pick up speed before tacking the whole process works better due to increased water flow around the foils plus the added inertia of the extra speed, you need to bring the helm over quickly while ensuring you dont stall the rudders especially on the early X's as the helm is extremely direct.

It took us a few times to come to terms with correct tacking procedure, however it does get easier as you get used to it.

Like most boats these have their own little idiosyncrasies and a good sailor will adjust to the boat not just keep trying to do the same thing then blame it on the boat when it wont work

[Herschel]

You might be trying to point too high during the tack - pointing high creates a lot of it's own wind dynamics you don't need during a tack - back off the wind to a beam reach first, THEN tack all the way to a beam reach on the other side (180 degrees) - then after the boat has it's legs again you can tighten everything up for a close pointing configuration, but there is no need to use a close haul configuration to start a tack. And there is no need to tack from a position pointing high from starboard to port pointing high again. Back off a bit.

Before you make your turn lower the daggerboard all the way down and crank the wheel over hard and fast - release the genoa sheet before the boat makes the turn - just let it fly - don't try to get the genoa around the mast - just let it fly. Make your turn a full 180 degrees - go from a beam reach to a beam reach - then deal with the genny after the boat has turned.

The heavier your boat is the harder it is to turn - also - the genoa will drag the rudders though the water so that's why it's good to release that jib sheet very early in the turn and hold the wheel hard over for a long time - you want the boat to slam over to the other side. AFTER the boat is over on it's other side you can start pulling in sheets and getting property tightened up to point into the wind.

If you furl the genny in before tacking you need to move the jib sheets to the track on the top of the cabin or the sail will stall out because lines around the stays will cause the jib to heave when you tack - don't run a furled genoa outside the stays in heavy wind or you will heave-to when the boat starts to turn.

Boat, I absolutely believe you that this is what it takes to tack a Mac in high winds with a Genoa. I'll have to take your word for it; you have a whole lot more experience tacking with a Genoa. I haven't had my Genoa on for over ten years. I use the working jib exclusively. I will say that the working jib is not nearly this problematic. I typically tack on a dime, perhaps in strong winds making sure I am not pinching or heeled over to far before I start the tack, but this just reinforces my decision to kip my working jib on in lieu of the Genoa.

[Baha]

I also have gone from a 150 Genoa to a working jib....lots easier to balance and to tack.

[BOAT]

I have a really big Genoa - over 170% - it's huge - on a broad reach sometimes part of the Genoa is in front of the forestay - that's a bit too much sail for conditions when that happens, but I am also a very lazy sailor - my style is to just cruise a leg for a very long time - if your tacking often I think a jib is a better idea - a genoa is more of a cruising sail - in my case I will sail all day long and average only three or four turns the whole day. If I am sailing inside the marina I use only the main or only the genoa furled - I rarely sail inside the marina with all sails flying. It's too cramped in there.

You guys sailing the inland waterways and straights are navigating some crazy stuff and need to turn - you need a jib tied down to the cabin top that can clear the mast.

[Herschel]

I have a really big Genoa - over 170% - it's huge - on a broad reach sometimes part of the Genoa is in front of the forestay

Wow, Boat! I have a 30 degree list just sitting here at the keyboard reading about that! That will get you out to Catalina and back in a hurry.

[BOAT]

You guys are funny - really, you can't see a thing when the genoa is out - in my case there is nothing to see because out in the ocean there is no one out there and nothing to see. I use the chartplotter to steer the boat.

The big genoa makes a lousy jib - when you furl in the genoa so it's small like a jib the clew is up real high cuz the sail is all rolled up - and it makes the shape really stupid - it can be done - but it does not work as well as a working jib.

Maybe when I'm really old I will dump the big furling headsail and just use a hank on jib - it sure would make the whole trailering thing a lot easier than raising the mast with the furling unit in the way all the time.

Imagine trailering the boat without all the furling rig hanging out in front of the bow pulpit! now that would be nice!

So you guys that have no big furling headsail on your boats? What's it like to lower the mast for trailering? I bet it's real nice and easy huh?

[Highlander]

I would not know so can,t help u there !!

J

[Herschel]

You guys are funny - really, you can't see a thing when the genoa is out - in my case there is nothing to see because out in the ocean there is no one out there and nothing to see. I use the chartplotter to steer the boat.

The big genoa makes a lousy jib - when you furl in the genoa so it's small like a jib the clew is up real high cuz the sail is all rolled up - and it makes the shape really stupid - it can be done - but it does not work as well as a working jib.

Maybe when I'm really old I will dump the big furling headsail and just use a hank on jib - it sure would make the whole trailering thing a lot easier than raising the mast with the furling unit in the way all the time.

Imagine trailering the boat without all the furling rig hanging out in front of the bow pulpit! now that would be nice!

So you guys that have no big furling headsail on your boats? What's it like to lower the mast for trailering? I bet it's real nice and easy huh?

Boat, I have a furler on my working jib, so no break when it comes to trailering, but I get around that by keeping it in a slip year round. Fresh water, so just a little fuzz to deal with from time to time.

[sailboatmike]

Maybe the go is having a second forestay for a hank on jib and keeping the genoa on the furler, get the best of both worlds or maybe a second furler like some one here do