For all the years I've been boating and lugging the famous yellow 30 amp power cord across the deck, coiling it and jamming it in the "yellow" bag, only to arrive at the power pedestal and find that I am 5 feet short, out of breath, hot and bothered. I have often wondered why we do this? For the past few outings I decided to try a different approach: I replaced the BIG YELLOW with my standard 110 cord that we all have in our garages. Why not? It's lighter, longer, cheaper, easier to stow, and seemed to charge the batteries just fine. My "smart" charger didn't raise any objections that I could determine. No breakers blown. The pedestals have the conventional 110 female rceptacle, in addition to the 30 and 60 amp receptacles. I needed only the adapter to fit the shore power receptacle on the boat. So, why not?, to all you electrical gurus.
Jeff
Power Cord Choices
-
Jeff Ritsema
- First Officer
- Posts: 204
- Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2004 10:09 am
- Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
-
Divecoz
- Admiral
- Posts: 3803
- Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 2:54 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: PORT CHARLOTTE FLORIDA 05 M Mercury 50 H.P. Big Foot Bill at Boats 4 Sail is my Hero
All depends on
#1 .your load = amp draw
#2. length of your cord = try to keep under 50'
#3. Wire size of your cord = look for and use only
AWG #14 and even better # 12 cords #10 and your back to Big Yellow cord .
#4. Good connections at all ends. a sloppy / loose fit means a poor connection and higher resistence. Use good quality cord caps . Twist locks are best but dont work everwhere so I hear.
#2. length of your cord = try to keep under 50'
#3. Wire size of your cord = look for and use only
AWG #14 and even better # 12 cords #10 and your back to Big Yellow cord .
#4. Good connections at all ends. a sloppy / loose fit means a poor connection and higher resistence. Use good quality cord caps . Twist locks are best but dont work everwhere so I hear.
We don't have power at our slip, and no fancy "shore power" on Annie's Song(yet). So I've just carried a "Marine Extention Cord" from West Marine (WM# 5421664) w/ 30 amp adaptor since '98. (very occational usage in 7 years) Its light, safe, simple and cheap. I run it through the hatch cover (we got plenty o' room there!) I've used it to power lights, batt charger and a 1500 watt heater. (not all at the same time!)
SEE BELOW:
1) Marine Extension Cord 14/3 Wire 25' Long
Manufacturer MFG Part # WM Model# Price In Stock? Qty
PRIMEWIRE LT530725 5421664 Only $16.99 USD YES
2) Adapter - Standard, 30A Male/15A* Female
147470 81A Only $49.99 USD
Knock on wood...its always been adequate. (Long Beach CA to Harbor Springs MI.) I don't know why I had to have a "MARINE" extention cord. I could have gotten a regular 14/3 or 12/3, twice as long from Home Depot for the same $$. But hey, it says MARINE ok?
Tom
Annie's Song,
Denver
SEE BELOW:
1) Marine Extension Cord 14/3 Wire 25' Long
Manufacturer MFG Part # WM Model# Price In Stock? Qty
PRIMEWIRE LT530725 5421664 Only $16.99 USD YES
2) Adapter - Standard, 30A Male/15A* Female
147470 81A Only $49.99 USD
Knock on wood...its always been adequate. (Long Beach CA to Harbor Springs MI.) I don't know why I had to have a "MARINE" extention cord. I could have gotten a regular 14/3 or 12/3, twice as long from Home Depot for the same $$. But hey, it says MARINE ok?
Tom
Annie's Song,
Denver
You know, it is very strange, but topics seem to come up on this board just about the time I am thinking of them...
Here's my plan for "shore power":
I will use this male 30A plug ($15.99) with matching boot ($10.99) wired to the end of a 50' yellow 12g extension cord ($22.97 from Home Depot). This should end up looking like a normal high $$$ 30A shore power cord that no harbor master would even glance twice at... Shore power cord cost: $49.95
Of course, this necessitates cutting off the male end of the cord. I'll likely cut it about 15' in (see below for why), so the cord will be about 35' long. I'm sure the need for 50' will be rare, but there are likely times when that extra 10' would be handy...
At any rate, I'm going to run the cut-off male end through this thru-hull 'receptacle' ($14.99) and to a 'weather proof' gang box ($15.93 @HD) with four receptacles ($4.49 for 10 @ HD). The cost for this option: $35.41
Alternatively, I may just cut the above extension cord right at the male plug, giving me a true 50' and use a surge protector with 15' cord ($24.97 @ HD) and the 'thru-hull' ($14.99). Cost for this option: $39.96
In either case, the gang box or surge protector will be tucked away, likely inside the rear dinet seat, and not see a whole lot of action. But, it will be used to power two of these 6amp chargers. Actually, I'm planning on buying two of the 6amp and group 24 battery combos ($169ea or 2 for $338). I plan to move my current 'house' battery (which is the stock dual purpose lead acid) up under the galley and combine it with the starting lead acid battery. I plan to use the new two group 24s as a house/secondary bank. One battery will go in the battery 'box' and the other will go under the rear dinette seat. That will give me a reserve capacity of 356 min on my 'house' bank alone... It seems incredible to be able to pull 25 amps for almost 6 hrs... My anticipated loads won't be anywhere near that, but that just means that I can go for days with my anticipated loads...
This sounds, at least to me, as a bit of overkill. But, I have decided to go all DC and will be mounting an automotive electric radiator fan in an alternate (read: not to be used with any change of folowing seas, etc...) companion way board this evening. These things move ALOT of air, and should be a decent replacement for an air conditioner. I don't have numbers, but I'm certain it will suck a good deal of current... I'm also planning on adding one of those compressor type refridgerators (or cooler-type) in the near future.
Running all the numbers, this gives me the most bang for my buck and the most flexibility, since I'll have two large banks each with its own charger. Two separate charges may be necessary given the mix of lead acid and AGM batteries. I know a gell cell would require a different charging voltage, with respect to the lead acid, but I'm not sure about AGMs...
Sorry, but I was having trouble getting the links to home depot to work...
Here's my plan for "shore power":
I will use this male 30A plug ($15.99) with matching boot ($10.99) wired to the end of a 50' yellow 12g extension cord ($22.97 from Home Depot). This should end up looking like a normal high $$$ 30A shore power cord that no harbor master would even glance twice at... Shore power cord cost: $49.95
Of course, this necessitates cutting off the male end of the cord. I'll likely cut it about 15' in (see below for why), so the cord will be about 35' long. I'm sure the need for 50' will be rare, but there are likely times when that extra 10' would be handy...
At any rate, I'm going to run the cut-off male end through this thru-hull 'receptacle' ($14.99) and to a 'weather proof' gang box ($15.93 @HD) with four receptacles ($4.49 for 10 @ HD). The cost for this option: $35.41
Alternatively, I may just cut the above extension cord right at the male plug, giving me a true 50' and use a surge protector with 15' cord ($24.97 @ HD) and the 'thru-hull' ($14.99). Cost for this option: $39.96
In either case, the gang box or surge protector will be tucked away, likely inside the rear dinet seat, and not see a whole lot of action. But, it will be used to power two of these 6amp chargers. Actually, I'm planning on buying two of the 6amp and group 24 battery combos ($169ea or 2 for $338). I plan to move my current 'house' battery (which is the stock dual purpose lead acid) up under the galley and combine it with the starting lead acid battery. I plan to use the new two group 24s as a house/secondary bank. One battery will go in the battery 'box' and the other will go under the rear dinette seat. That will give me a reserve capacity of 356 min on my 'house' bank alone... It seems incredible to be able to pull 25 amps for almost 6 hrs... My anticipated loads won't be anywhere near that, but that just means that I can go for days with my anticipated loads...
This sounds, at least to me, as a bit of overkill. But, I have decided to go all DC and will be mounting an automotive electric radiator fan in an alternate (read: not to be used with any change of folowing seas, etc...) companion way board this evening. These things move ALOT of air, and should be a decent replacement for an air conditioner. I don't have numbers, but I'm certain it will suck a good deal of current... I'm also planning on adding one of those compressor type refridgerators (or cooler-type) in the near future.
Running all the numbers, this gives me the most bang for my buck and the most flexibility, since I'll have two large banks each with its own charger. Two separate charges may be necessary given the mix of lead acid and AGM batteries. I know a gell cell would require a different charging voltage, with respect to the lead acid, but I'm not sure about AGMs...
Sorry, but I was having trouble getting the links to home depot to work...
I know that the gauge of marine stranded wire is slightly larger diameter than solid copper house wire of same gauge. Don't know if they have the same amp rating or not.
Another reason to use the "Expensive" shore power cord may be insurance reasons.
In any event if you were keeping power connected the whole season and exposed to the elements the "Shore power" one may actually pay for itself by not deteriorating in the elements.
Who knows what UV protection and marine life prevention is molded into the Shore power cord.
-Don B
Another reason to use the "Expensive" shore power cord may be insurance reasons.
In any event if you were keeping power connected the whole season and exposed to the elements the "Shore power" one may actually pay for itself by not deteriorating in the elements.
Who knows what UV protection and marine life prevention is molded into the Shore power cord.
-Don B
I'll admit that I'm opening a door to being questioned by some insurance investigator if the boat ever burns.
But, the plug I'm using, along with its waterproof boot, are specifically designed for the application. So too, is the 'receptacle' that I'm mounting on my boat. Specifically, it is designed to accept a cable for battery chargers, which is going to be its overwhelmingly primary purpose. I really don't see running AC stuff with any frequency.
Only the cord itself is potentially suspect... I just don't see a whole lot of exposure, where one end of the cord has a purpose built waterproof boot and the other retains its molded in plug... I do recognize that the stock end of the cable's connection with the onboard receptacle is not fully waterproof. But, I plan to locate this under the helm seat on the port side of the transom opening, where it ought to be rather sheilded from both water and all but the most vigilent harbor master's prying eyes...
I keep coming back to the harbor master only because of stories on the board where they have apparently just unplugged people's non-twistlock stuff - not because I think there is anything wrong with my proposal.
As for UV, again, the plug and boot are designed for this application. Furthermore, the extension cord is an outdoor variety. Besides, it will not see daily action as my boat is stored on the trailer...
By the way, I'll also have a normal extension cord on the boat for those occasions where 'shore power' connections are not available, or too far away...
Obvioulsy, I do need the take some precautions to prevent my cable from becoming unplugged from the boat and falling into the water. I haven't finalized this yet, but it is in the works...
But, the plug I'm using, along with its waterproof boot, are specifically designed for the application. So too, is the 'receptacle' that I'm mounting on my boat. Specifically, it is designed to accept a cable for battery chargers, which is going to be its overwhelmingly primary purpose. I really don't see running AC stuff with any frequency.
Only the cord itself is potentially suspect... I just don't see a whole lot of exposure, where one end of the cord has a purpose built waterproof boot and the other retains its molded in plug... I do recognize that the stock end of the cable's connection with the onboard receptacle is not fully waterproof. But, I plan to locate this under the helm seat on the port side of the transom opening, where it ought to be rather sheilded from both water and all but the most vigilent harbor master's prying eyes...
I keep coming back to the harbor master only because of stories on the board where they have apparently just unplugged people's non-twistlock stuff - not because I think there is anything wrong with my proposal.
As for UV, again, the plug and boot are designed for this application. Furthermore, the extension cord is an outdoor variety. Besides, it will not see daily action as my boat is stored on the trailer...
By the way, I'll also have a normal extension cord on the boat for those occasions where 'shore power' connections are not available, or too far away...
Obvioulsy, I do need the take some precautions to prevent my cable from becoming unplugged from the boat and falling into the water. I haven't finalized this yet, but it is in the works...
-
Catigale
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10421
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 5:59 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Admiral .............Catigale 2002X.......Lots of Harpoon Hobie 16 Skiffs....Island 17
- Contact:
Im fine with using an extension cord for on board power, tools, vacuum etc while attended.
I wouldnt leave it hooked up unattended, even for battery charging. One cannot argue that since the battery charger is a low amp draw, the cord is 'safe' Most of the failure modes of the wire or connector will make it a high amp draw...which turns into fire.
I wouldnt leave it hooked up unattended, even for battery charging. One cannot argue that since the battery charger is a low amp draw, the cord is 'safe' Most of the failure modes of the wire or connector will make it a high amp draw...which turns into fire.