2002 Mac X trailer wiring and lights, redux.

[Catigale]

Complete rework of my trailer lights on my stock 2002 steel trailer

main paradigm shifts

No more ground through screws into the frame. Every light has its own ground white wire connection

Main wire harness runs in grey pvc outdoor conduit.total in parts cost Is $25, protection from salt and road damage.

No vampire connectors

Lights mounted on a 2x4 beam and wired with a single standard trailer plug. I’m using the 2x4 as a terminal block do I can rapidly troubleshoot.

[Jimmyt]

Nice!

[Catigale]

Ill dump pictures in the next post

Ill give myself 8/10 on this one.

The one thing I don't like is the crossover to the port side of the boat for the mid trailer lights - red/amber - I should have kept that conduit tighter to the trailer and be less of a road hazard. Not bad though.

Install notes - pseudo random order

1 Its possible to push wires through the 8/10 foot conduit runs if you get the coils out and use a bit of silicon spray - I happened to have a fish take so I used the on the longer runs.

2 You can push from bell end to the narrow end but not the other way.

3 Rough in your conduit before gluing, break down, pull wires, reassemble, then glue. Im a bigger fan of this than messenger line. It does not take more than a few turns/angles to induce significant friction in the conduit

4 My wiring plan does not split the port/starboard right left lights down each side of the trailer - everything runs down the right side (easy to service on road without getting hit) to a plug at trailer end - all lights connect through this plug.

5 The entire light board can be removed for servicing if needed.

6 This design also lets you wire in emergency lights by simply plugging in

7 My trailer connect ends up high at the boweye level, nearly, with a 4 foot connector to the Tow Beast.

8 I have some more chafe relief to add.

9 Future embellishments - servo controlled Cinder block release for tailgaters. (patent pending)

[Jimmyt]

9 Future embellishments - servo controlled Cinder block release for tailgaters. (patent pending)

Can't wait to see this one!!

[Catigale]

Pictures

[Catigale]

More pictures

[Catigale]

Materials list ( to be edited with skus)

Carlon pcv 1/2 conduit with bell ends. About $3 a piece

I used 4 8 foot pieces

Couplers
Three small boxes ( front, mid breakout, right goalpost)
One large box at rear

Two 45 angle pvc
Two 90 angle pvc

Conduit retainer loops one bag

Ss lowe quality screws

Hacksaw for cutting conduit
Screwdriver
Conduit pvc glue

[Jimmyt]

Cool! Thanks for posting this!

[Russ]

Nice work.

Are these junction boxes waterproof?



You should document this in the mods section.

[Catigale]

They are. They are designed for underground power wiring.

The box face plates have butyl rubber gaskets and it iooks like if I keep the wire plug flat, the nicely seal up and keep the whole system watertight.

I might put a hole in the trap looking part and plug with a rubber stopper so I can inpect/drain for any water that gets in, and also flush with fresh if desired.

[Tomfoolery]

Hmmmm, that's an interesting use of ID lights you got there.

[Catigale]

Nice work.

Are these junction boxes waterproof?



You should document this in the mods section.

Will do

There was a stupid easy fix for this. I switched the back port to the crossover, and used the drop port to go under the bunk

This Tucked everything up neatly at at above axle level.

To rework the PVC I used a Dremel to cut open and you have to repull wires of course.

Follow up picutres to come

[Catigale]

Hmmmm, that's an interesting use of ID lights you got there.

Yes, technically wrong, it should be a single three lamp cluster. The refs say mounted as high as possible - not sure of that means trailer or the load? I guess you should have both in case you trailer empty.

I put two plugs on the rear box of the trailer so I can easily just hook in another one

[Catigale]

Much nicer and better road clearance

Since this is an ISO controlled procedure

Rev 1 : stock wires dragging behind boat for 200 miles

Rev B: wires enclosed in PVC conduit

Rev iii: redesigned mid trailer crossover for improved ground clearance

Crap...I’ll get a better pic after this thunderstorm passes

On edit = here we go, much better

See the seal on the bottom of the rear box take off

The detail here is in case of on car light bar failure, I can disconnect and hook up the back-up lights (back up material, not reverse lights) and stay legal, or pseudo-legal

Hidden inside grey box is another duplicate connector in case the outside one gets road damaged or fails, too, 30 extra seconds of wiring, another layer of redundant redundancy.

[Catigale]

Guidance requested

I have red/amber running lights going in mid trailer. Should I wire these into trailer plugs for connections or hardwire them in the boxes?

Pros - allows easy removal of lights and goalposts for serving repairs
Also allows a back up connector if I connect all wires.

Cons
Potential electrical connection failure
Minimal cost as I already have hardware

I guess I could put plugs on and put the plugs into the box