





Thanks! Even better than I imagined from the stills. Lots of versatility available in that setup!
C Buchs wrote: ↑Tue Nov 02, 2021 5:00 pm “I've got an eTec 90 and a 10" fixed jack plate”. From Sheppie62: The other option I thought of was to reverse the tie rod and weld an extension to the right as close to right rudder pivot as possible (allowing for rod clearance when turning left) which would make the connection rod as close to perpendicular with the motor steering connection. The lift jack further complicates the issues as steering goes out of alignment, but really only matters that rudders and motor align when motor and rudders are down. However I was concerned one would limit the other at full turn when motor was lifted, tilted or both.

Jeff what height did you end up running your motor at?C Buchs wrote: ↑Tue Nov 02, 2021 5:00 pm I've got an eTec 90 and a 10" fixed jack plate. When I saw your pictures, I was agreeing that your solution looked complicated. However, when I saw your video and discovered your adjustable jack plate, I realized that you've done it right. I love your solution!
Jeff
Jeff, sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. I have my motor height set with the cavitation plate even with the bottom with lift jack fully down. I was able to raise jack plate up a bit and get entire cavitation plate above water, but didn’t seem to help much, but this was with a full load and water ballast in. My water ballast valve handle broke off so I wasn’t able to run it with an empty ballast tank. I suspect raising the motor without the ballast will help. Any tilt/trim adjustments up didn’t help any either. I have no wedges installed. But full down tilt worked ok. But with ballast tanks empty may need wedges. I suspect prop selection would make a difference as well, mine is a huge 3 blade pontoon boat type.
