I just got my boat in the slip and pulled the ballast tank transom valve up, and the metal rod broke from the sliding valve door part inside the assembly .. I was able to use a flat head screw driver to open valve (in the slip under water) and rod works to push it closed. (1) First question are all these 3” valves the same? Anyone know the manufacturer/ part number? (BWY wants $60 plus shipping). (2) If I change to different valve, will the screw holes line up? (3) can I install this while in the slip, underwater? I understand 5200 adhesive works underwater??? Maybe I could inflate my 2 paddle boards under back of boat (with ballast tank empty of course). I just thought maybe I can just use the guts out of the new valve? Leaving sealed part glued on boat? Yes I tried screwing handle back in
It fit perfectly. The bolts were a little tricky because there were nuts on the inside of the tank. Three of the nuts stayed put in the original sealant, but we lost the fourth to the depths of the ballast tank.
I wouldn't want to do that in the water. I needed my 10 year old son's hands to reach inside and thread the replacement nut.
I'm just asking because I don't see it, but which Mac do you have? And year. Also, are you somewhere that is warm enough to even perform a task submerged?
Our boat is a 98 26x, it is in Mission Bay San Diego I think water is about 63 degrees now. I have a wetsuit, but I was just going to try it hanging off the back deck, I am able to open valve now that way with a flathead screw driver. I suppose I could beach it Backwards, when tide is almost fully out, then change it, then wait for tide to rise. I ordered the stainless one for $39, but I think maybe plastic would have been better? (and cheaper). No electrolysis while in marina.
Can you move as many heavy items as you can into and onto the bow? The less in the stern, and the more that can be moved forward, the more the stern rises.
NiceAft wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 8:04 am
Can you move as many heavy items as you can into and onto the bow? The less in the stern, and the more that can be moved forward, the more the stern rises.
Just keep an eye on the water level at the vent in the bow, as loading heavy things forward will cause the ballast water level to rise at that end. I found that out the hard way when I launched without moving all my heavy crap back to where it belongs after trailering. Water started coming over the cup that surrounds the vent hole.
Be Free wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 9:14 pm
A standard expanding boat plug fits the vent hole in the "X". The vent should be closed when the tank is full.
That’s what I thought; that’s what I have in my .
When filling the ballast, I stick an index finger into the vent, about an inch (2.5cm). When the water level reaches the finger I insert the expanding plug; that being said, if the ballast is empty while attempting to work on the transom valve, all the better.
NiceAft wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 5:23 pm Is there no cap, plug, stopper on that vent? Is that normal for an X?
Yes, there's a stopper. I was filling it at the slip and hadn't moved the massive pile of crap in the bow. I normally reach under the cushion and check level with a finger (blind). Having not accounted for all the extra weight in the bow, the water was just about splashing over the cup when I checked it. Doh!
My caution was to the OP who may move ballast to as suggested, but if left too long with a vent plug that's not as water tight as it should be, he may end up with water coming out of the vent.
Tomfoolery wrote: ↑Sun Dec 05, 2021 5:17 pm
Just keep an eye on the water level at the vent in the bow, as loading heavy things forward will cause the ballast water level to rise at that end. I found that out the hard way when I launched without moving all my heavy crap back to where it belongs after trailering. Water started coming over the cup that surrounds the vent hole.
Wow! I didn't know that was possible. I always thought our X was relatively heavy when we travel, but even when fully loaded with gas, water, food and toys, plus the family, the ballast only fills to about a quarter inch below the top of the hole. And then the "cup" must be another six inches on top of that.
I wonder if there is a design difference up there between 99 and 02. Before you mentioned your experience, I would have bet that there was nothing I could possibly do to get the ballast to overflow the cup.
I thought the cup was there for aggressive sailing or major waves only; I never would have thought that loading the boat could have brought the plug below the waterline. Were you travelling with your Weider Gym weight set in the V-berth?
Starscream wrote: ↑Mon Dec 06, 2021 5:47 am
Were you travelling with your Weider Gym weight set in the V-berth?
No peeking!
That vent plug will actually hold back water when heeled, by the way. The ballast tank is wide at the stern, and the plug is on the center line, so when it's heeled there is water elevated above the plug level. Imagine the boat sitting on its side, for an extreme example. So it's important that the vent plug seal reasonably well if you don't want ballast water coming in.
The cup around mine is only a couple of inches above the tank at most, by the way. Perhaps later ones have taller cups.
.. I was able to use a flat head screw driver to open valve (in the slip under water) and rod works to push it closed. (1) First question 
are all these 3” valves the same? Anyone know the manufacturer/ part number? (BWY wants $60 plus shipping). (2) If I change to different valve, will the screw holes line up? (3) can I install this while in the slip, underwater? I understand 5200 adhesive works underwater??? Maybe I could inflate my 2 paddle boards under back of boat (with ballast tank empty of course). 
I just thought maybe I can just use the guts out of the new valve? Leaving sealed part glued on boat? Yes I tried screwing handle back in 
Is there no cap, plug, stopper on that vent? Is that normal for an X?
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