Keys cruising

[Ixneigh]

My destination this year is the sugarloaf/saddlebunch/old finds bight district. Normally I don’t cruise this late in the spring. It’s very very hot. Cabin temps are 100 degrees even with hatches open. If the wind isn’t blowing, you sweat. If you move, you sweat. If the sun is hitting you you sweat. These last couple of summers have been the hottest ever. In the past I’d considered staying on the boat until the first big storm threatened. But not in this heat. Cabin fans, good Bimini or shade, and one of the newer icebox style refrigerators is imperative. I wouldn’t have gone cruising this summer without it. At Least you have cold water. Once you enter the labyrinth of the big pine key outback the water is very very shallow. I have no idea if I’ll even be able to make it into some of the places I want to go, chosen from studying google earth. This is the Content Keys itinerary but with even less water. There is a bridge, Niles Channel bridge, with 40 feet of clearance. Looks like I can just fit under that to gain Newfound Harbor and environs if I decide I’d like a day on the Atlantic side reefs. There is scant opportunity to reprovision here. Most stores are not located near the water. There a chance tomarrow I can dinghy over to a bridge and walk to a oriental grocery store google claims is not too far away. I brought enough canned food to do the whole trip if I have to though. I’m currently here:

It’s shallow and the bottom is a mixture of rocky areas and grass. A lot of flats boats use this waterway. Area is also undoubtedly loaded with bugs after dark. I may hit the Content Keys on my way home, it’s a prettier location than most of my other destinations are apt to be. Of note, I feel that, based on my prior experience here, there is six inches more water than shown on the chart. The scary looking “coral heads” that can also be seen on the chart scattered around the shallow areas near the Content Keys do not exist. However, the Stoney, reef like ledge that borders the gulf side edges of these pretty little keys definitely does exist and commands respect. This whole areas is very similar to some parts of the Bahamas.

This picture is from my last trip to the Content Keys. Come for the sand. Stay for the views.

Ix

[Russ]

Nice report. Such a pretty area.

You should do a vlog on youtube of your cruising. Cruising vlogs are big on youtube and the Keys in a shallow draft sailboat would be a great vlog.

[Ixneigh]

I’ll try to update my Mac channel on YouTube. It’s a fascinating area.

[Be Free]

Looking forward to seeing more!

[Russ]

For those interested in Florida Keys sailing....here's Ix's youtube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/user/LastLionMonday

[Russ]

One of his more interesting videos....Toilet Seat Pass
Who would have thunk a place like this existed?

[Ixneigh]

So, I motored out of the pleasant area I overnighted at and into big pine channel. It always seems to be low tide when I get to these places. Big pine channel is larger than it looks with a few small mangrove islets in it. My intent was to motor against the stiff breeze until I reached the overseas highway. There I would take the dinghy down a residential canal to investigate an Asian grocery store right nearby that I saw on Google maps. I had no idea what I’d actually find. This whole area was shallow, with max 6 feet or so, and submerged piling that I looked for, but did not see. The colors were washed out greens, grays and browns with the faintest deeper green telling of somewhat better water. It was partly cloudy and that made reading the water difficult. The chart seems pretty accurate though. On arriving at northeast end of the bridge, I anchored and set out in the dinghy down the canal and was pleased to see a public-ish sea wall to tie up to. I walked across the quiet street to the grocery, located in a row of low buildings. The store is quite small and you’ll find only canned stuff, rice, sauces, noodles of different types and snacks like pocky (!) they do also have limited and pricy frozen goods. I bought a couple packs of ground free range burger and didn’t bother the check the price. A few cans of fruit, some pocky, four tall cans of the “bobbatea” drink, a small bottle of seltzer type beverage and a made to order large bobbatea drink which was divine, given that it’s been a hot, windy, salty day. They do not have any fresh produce, bottled water, American style refreshments, or fresh meats. Not a replacement for a regular grocery store, however it’s reachable from the water which Is almost impossible to find hear abouts. I debated getting rice, but didn’t in the end. I probably won’t catch any fish to eat it with. After storing my purchases, 60 dollars worth,
I sailed back down big pine channel, following a few flats boats until I was scrubbing the boat bottom on the grass (lightly) but was able to head for water a few more inches deep and keep going. The rest of the leg to the pass I had to cut through was a bit deeper thankfully. I lowered the main, ran the engine and carefully navigated between two mangrove keys into the next channel. My destination was Topmast Key and Knockemdown Key and I was able to sail about half the distance there up wind, paying close attention the the keel additions effects. The water here was deeper, and prettier. A pair of curious dolphins came by to inspect my beautiful M. These gentlemen seemed about 12 feet long and came right up Alongside, peering at me, then they would dash forward, and circle the boat. When my dogs noticed them, they went crazy and didn’t shut up till the grinning visitors were long gone.
In the Lee of Topsail Key I anchored and took the dinghy to I check out the shore with hopeful puppies. Noting but mangroves. Sorry guys. My dogs both use the for deck if we can’t locate proper pooping terrain, so I’m lucky in that respect.
I did also take a swim shortly after, in water which appeared very clear and clean. I noticed something concerning about the engine which I’ll post on another section.


Ix

[OverEasy]

One of his more interesting videos....Toilet Seat Pass
Who would have thunk a place like this existed?

Too Funny

[Ixneigh]

After repairing my spatula, I got underway with the little jib since today was again, mostly off the wind and I thought maybe the jib would be easier, but slower. It’s a heavy air jib, pretty small. Surprisingly the boat sailed about as fast as she had with the 2reefed main. It was far easier to handle though, since gybing was a snap. She wasn’t quite as weatherly, a beam reach is the best I could do. I set the runners up for extra support. I now feel quite ok with running the boat off under a jib, something I never did before I installed those. Yes technically I’m sure the standard rig is fine, but you know, I still feel better. I couldnt tell if the new keel was doing much going dead down wind. She handled fine. I’d need some really strong air to see if it will help with the rounding up.
I made my first goal of the trip, the entrance, via creek and very indistinct approach channel, to lower sugarloaf sound. I’ve driven past this small body of shallow pea green water, and wanted to see it from the boat. Ok fine. Not much there. And no land for the dogs. I decided not to stay. The Marvin Key district is far far more attractive, so I decide on that for the afternoon. Coming back to out the creek it seemed like the keypad to my chart plotter packed it in. But I was able to get it working again by hitting it. This wouldn’t be a good place to lose that. I do carry a spare handheld plotter. It a must where I usually sail. I could probably get out of here with no gps at all but it wouldn’t be fun. The bright sand of the low tide beach welcomed me to drop anchor in 3ft of water near a small houseboat anchored by a little key not far from Marvins Key. The guy gave me the side eye when I passed his boat, but while walking my dogs on the pristine sands, he and his dog came over, and he seemed nice enough. I spent the rest of the early afternoon playing in what’s essentially a big sandy splash pool, painted in shimmering teal, aqua, sapphire blue, and whites. This experience here is very close to being in the Bahamas. But easier to get to. I got out of the water once I had had too much sun. I’ll probably hang here for a few days instead of going farther south. Nothing down there better than this. If I can sail most of the way back to big Spanish channel, I’ll have enough gas to make marathon if I have to motor from there. Which is common.

Ix

[Stickinthemud57]

My dogs both use the for deck if we can’t locate proper pooping terrain, so I’m lucky in that respect.

Isn't that why they call it the poop deck?

Very much enjoying reading your accounts. Jealous.

[Ixneigh]

So the last few days were spent out of cel range. Two places around Marvin key, which has some very nice low tide beaches. There’s a lot of current though, and the wind was very strong (25 k) so it made things difficult. That big anchor I have buried itself in all that snuggly soft sand and was loathe to leave the next day when I wanted to try a different anchorage. There was a wrecked motor yacht there but I did not explore it. I did note it had a better looking gel coat then my boat despite being derelict. And the winds rage! The next day I discovered I’d been a bit sunburned so I didn’t do any exploring other than Marvin Key itself, which has a scrap of actual land, some mangrove thickets, and a solitary palm tree on it. This morning I decided to leave on the incoming tide, and ran up on a shin deep sand shoal at the mouth of one of the deep spurs of blue water I was traversing. The vis was bad, and the morning light made the water look deeper than it was. The tide was still flooding in, less that half up, but I used the sail and motor to get off rather than waiting. It was pretty windy and my course was mostly up wind. I figured I’d have to motorsail with the reefed main up. I had the high tide which makes traveling here much easier. After a few miles I decided to hang the motor and try the jib and half board just to see. I got 4.5 knots and not bad pointing at a fair angle of heel but under good control. Well set 2 reef main, well setting small jib. This is exactly why I have that jib. I held that set up until we approached more marginal water. Who knows how much more water half tide was, over the 1 foot charted depth? I picked the board up all the way and only lost a bit of weather ability. Not too shabby and the the boat felt really good, able to handle the puffs and charging along at 5 knots. Tacking was a problem so I used the motor to avoid flogging the sails too much. Once in a while the rudders would drag, but even half up, I had control, just harder to steer. The light was still an issue because the sun wasn’t high enough, so I I barely made it over another flat, this time grass, that I neglected to see. But from there it was all mostly deeper and I could keep the rudders down. I was very pleased with the boats performance and she felt more like a keel boat. She was doing what I needed her to do in this environment. I parked at Tarpon Belly Key, walked the dogs and stretched my legs. It will be busy here over the weekend, with day trippers and campers. but I plan keep moving tomorrow. The wind is forecast to ease. If I can sail to Spanish Channel I think I’ll have enough fuel to motor to marathon if I decide I want to, since light and variable winds are called for later in the weekend.

Ix

[Russ]

You REALY need to blog this stuff. The shallow draft of the M is amazing in these parts. I would expect the X kick up board to be better...but you have made the dagger work.

[Be Free]

Thanks for the great report! You are giving me lots of ideas for when I eventually make it down that far. I hope you are taking lots of pictures and video to post when you get back.

[Ixneigh]

Now that I am back in cel range I can post some.

[Ixneigh]

For anyone contemplating this trip; provision well. After marathon you're basically in the outback. No groceries to be had unless you want to hail a cab from a bridge. I wanted more soda water and more meat. I’m a lousy fisherman. Gas is also hard to find. you’ll be doing a lot of motoring since that’s the most controlled way to cross extreme shallows. (You can back up) .
The best spots are the Content Keys, Tarpon Belly Keys, Sawyer Key and Marvin Keys. Forget about all the other small keys out there. There’s nothing on them except mangroves. They do provide shelter in a pinch if you need a Lee and the waters deep enough. The easiest route is through big Spanish channel, out into the gulf and approach Content Keys at high tide and calm weather. You’ll have to see your way in. The reef here is quite real, and real shallow, do be careful. I go over the flats at high water. It takes a bit longer, but it’s immune to bad weather. The next stop is Sawyer Key which has an easy, relatively hazard free entry. Sawyers boasts a substantial (for the area) amount of real land to walk on. At low tide, the ledge reef is very impressive. This is probably my favorite key, but there is no sand. Nor is there a secure anchorage. There is a little nook a Mac can duck into in good weather. It has a few unmarked coral heads. Tarpon belly keys has a deep water anchorage. Even larger keelboats can access it. But it’s rough in windy conditions. Marvin key has the best sand. Nothing here matches the chart. I ran aground in “6ft” of water that had shoaled over and was now a sand bar. You’ll have to find your way into the small harbor by eye.
I don’t think there is much worth seeing beyond the Middle Narrows and Waltz Key Basin. You can reach Key West if you do decide to continue. However there is no place to tie a dinghy up on that side of the island. In fact, there is almost nowhere to tie a dinghy up that doesn’t cost money in KY.

Ix