Goal post replacements

[argonaut]

My starboard goal post rusted through and fell off, exactly as designed.
Hats off to the the engineer (bean counter) that prevented a drain hole from being drilled in the goal post curve, heck those things might have lasted as long as the boat otherwise.
So should I replace 'em with original, or just get off the shelf parts and make 'em fit?

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

My starboard goal post rusted through and fell off, exactly as designed.
Hats off to the the engineer (bean counter) that prevented a drain hole from being drilled in the goal post curve.

are you suggesting that a good mod is to drill a drain hole in each of the goal posts?

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90 TLDI

[Chip Hindes]

It is a good idea to drill a hole. Otherwise, they fill up with water if you're not careful to replace the caps when they get nasty and/or fall off. Up here in the frozen North, I found it to be somewhat self correcting. They fill up, then freeze and split, thereby becoming self draining.

I've never seen such a thing off the shelf, but if you can find them, go to it. But even if you can find one, the chances that it will fit like the original are slim indeed.

If I were you I'd take it to a trailer place or a competent welder and have him duplicate the originals. Couldn't be that expensive.

[Jack O'Brien]

Chip's suggestion to have a welder replace the originals is probably best.

However, if one enjoys the challenge of doing everything "on the cheap" try PVC. I made an additional set of mid-ship goalposts from PVC piping. A horizontal 2" held under the trailer frame with conduit "U"-clamps. A 90* elbow on each side and the uprights as high as you want. I had a short length of smaller PVC from each fender clamped to each upright to keep them vertical. They flex nicely without breaking and guide the boat onto the trailer. Don't rust either. Drill a drain hole in the horizontal on each side. Word of warning: START WITH LONG uprights. Your trailer is at an angle on the bottom and the boat is floating high above it. You can always cut the uprights later.

[argonaut]

PVC.... neat idea, pix please!
I found a bolt-on replacement set locally, about $70.
Includes aluminum mounting brackets, some U-bolts (non-stainless... here we go), tubular aluminum bent in "L" shapes and PVC posts.
Probably the only thing on my trailer that won't rust.
No triangulation brackets to maintain vertical either so maybe I'll use your PVC idea.
Devil of a time getting the corroded bolts off to remove the old post brackets. Managed to get 3 of 4 out but on the last one head had corroded off. I need a big abrasive disk to lop off the head or a nut splitter for the 7/8" nut.

[Frank C]

I'd try phoning Costa Mesa. Bet they'll sell you a pair of "factory originals" for about 20 bucks, total ?

(bet it'll be even cheaper than gathering all that PVC! )

[Bill at BOATS 4 SAIL]

The parts list I have says Trailer Guide Posts, pair left and right - 26M - $45.00/set. It doesn't list them for the 26X. I think they are the same but I'm not certain.
The bolts and nuts that hold them on are both 15/16".

[Robert]

The PVC solution lends itself to a lot of possibilities. It would be easy to put in some plumbing to attach the aft goal posts to a middle set and provide a way to keep the bow off the fenders. Put a long bungie rope inside this horizontal pipe and when loading the boat on the trailer stretch the cord to the bow tiedown on the trailer to provide guides to keep the boat loading straight. Nornally leave the bungie cord inside the PVC to protect it from the sun and prevent flapping on the highway. Of course the PVC might look unprofessional if looks are a concern.
..
If using PVC in broad daylight, it would be wise to paint it so the sun damage will be slowed down.

[argonaut]

$45/set can't include shipping, these things are like 8 lbs a piece!
I bought the aluminum guide pole kit, may get another for a second set in the center.
I'm building my replacement aluminum trailer by one piece at a time.

Seriously though, on lake Ontario a steel trailer would probably live at least 15 years. My father-in-law welded a steel dock surface and it's been right on the lake at least that long with nothing on it but primer, but in Florida keeping an steel trailer is just a losing battle.
I'd rather sail.
I'm getting some prices & I may see if they'll discount for quantity. Pretty sure someone else needs one.
(on edit) I highly recommend Pipe-Light tail lights.
When your goal posts rust off and hit the pavement as you're tooling down the road the pipe-light wiring drags the iron post (assuming you fastened it well), making an attention-getting noise and keeping you from having to turn around and get the parts that fell off.
Pipe-Light tail lights

[Frank C]

Yep Argo, those pole lights look great! the ChampTrailer catalog just arrived, and those are in there at $80 the pair in LED. Check your state regs to keep the mounting height within their acceptable height-range for taillights.

[argonaut]

Check your state regs to keep the mounting height within their acceptable height-range for taillights.

Got 'er dun. Well they were legal at one time... DOT's wants them 15"-72". Now one side's about a half inch shorter than the other from being dragged behind us for a mile down US-1. Since I have to fasten the "old" pipe lights onto the new pipes I can even things out again then. Nice that they stay dry when I launch.

[Chip Hindes]

I like the Pipe Lights, but what's that other accessory just below the radar link on the pipelight website? I'm thinking I might want one of those, but it seems to be missing a description.

[DLT]

I saw that too... I'm not sure a description is needed, but I'm rather sure I couldn't handle the maintenance...

[Pipe-Light]

[Jack O'Brien]

Argonaut asked for pics of my PVC midship goalposts. I just joined Photobucket and am using it for the first time. Duh.

Self-made PVC Mid-ship Goalposts


Ace Trailers Stock Goalposts


Hey Hey - it works!