POWER Ballast tank modification with alarm

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Paul S
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POWER Ballast tank modification with alarm

Post by Paul S »

Like many owners...I hate to run up to the bow to open the vent for the ballast tank...and have to remember to close it...

I came up with a modification using a car door lock actuator ($6) and plumbing valve, some small copper pipe sections..hose..etc to make a power vent that can be operated from the cockpit.

The actuator triggers the valve to open and close (via a momentary DPDT switch in the cockpit)

I also added a magnetic switch to trigger a siren to ensure I remember to close the valve

Let me know if anyone has any questions or comments.

All the pictures are here:Power Ballast tank mod
some samples:

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baldbaby2000
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Post by baldbaby2000 »

Very clever! It's nice to see a mod that makes things so much easier and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Where did you get the actuator?
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Post by Paul S »

I got the actuator on ebay $ .99 +$5 shipping. There are lots of them. If you attempt it..just get one that is a 2 wire actuator. then just need a DPDT momentary switch and some wire and you are good to go.

I will post the wiring diagram next week (I have it on my work computer). It is pretty basic.

Plus if it fails..you can easly operate the handle by hand. If the actuator dies..just replace it. It should be durable enough I think.

I really like the siren (radio shack - cheap too). I mounted it by the actuator. You could get a buzzer and mount it in the console...or use a light..but I find it less likely to miss a buzzer than a light.

Cheap..easy..effective.

The only cheaper way would be to run a hose from the vent to the outside (say into the anchor locker like some X owners have). But that seemed like a huge task..I didn't want to tackle that.

If it works well...I will pretty it up and make better electrical connections...for now I am treating it as a proof of concept.

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craiglaforce
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Post by craiglaforce »

Very clever idea.
I have the old X design with the plug right at the companionway, otherwise I would try it out.
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Post by Paul S »

My original idea was to have a cable (like a bike cable) run the entire length to operate the valve...but I could not find a cable that long.

This seemes to work though..

On the X design with the valve under the stairs..you could use a bike style cable to operate a valve

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Bobby T.-26X #4767
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Post by Bobby T.-26X #4767 »

my only suggestion is that you put a loop in your flex tubing so that no salt water gets to the ball valve. otherwise, over time it will freezed up.

i'm really suprised that a door lock actuator has enough power to move that ball valve.

Image

it is working just fine for you, eh?
BTW, how do you know when the ballast is full?

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90 TLDI
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Post by Paul S »

Bobby T.-26X #4767 wrote:my only suggestion is that you put a loop in your flex tubing so that no salt water gets to the ball valve. otherwise, over time it will freezed up.

i'm really suprised that a door lock actuator has enough power to move that ball valve.

it is working just fine for you, eh?
BTW, how do you know when the ballast is full?

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90 TLDI
The hose goes up high enough and is looped a bit.. If water goes up that high..we have bigger issues to deal with :)

I drilled several holes in the arm to get the right amount of opening and leverage...It opens about half way..which is more than enough.. Next time I think I would use 3/4" (as long as the actuator is strong enough).

The actuator is actually pretty strong..It has no problem at all moving the lever..the is a hair bit of slop..but hitting the button twice takes care of that.

You can check the ballast the old way if you like (the original plug is still there...but wait 5-10 minutes and it should be full..

The nice thing about this setup is all the parts are cheap..any part fails..replace it.. you can always just pull the plug the old way if you need to..

Paul
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Bobby T.-26X #4767
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Post by Bobby T.-26X #4767 »

hey, i like it!
when Mac-ing solo, it's always a PITA to run to the bow while trying to get other things done.
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baldbaby2000
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Post by baldbaby2000 »

Do these actuators use motors? Do you open and close the valve by reversing the polarity?
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Tahoe Jack
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Power ballast vent

Post by Tahoe Jack »

Re: How do you know when the ballast is full? :? Some months ago I posted a mod that provided a buzzer alarm when the ballast become full. Quite inexpensive, and retained the original components as back up. 8) Check it out. Tahoe Jack
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Post by Paul S »

baldbaby2000 wrote:Do these actuators use motors? Do you open and close the valve by reversing the polarity?
Yes. I reverse the polarity with the DPDT switch (I will have a diagram next week). one side will open the valve...the other side of the switch will have the reversed polarity to close the valve..

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Re: Power ballast vent

Post by Paul S »

Tahoe Jack wrote:Re: How do you know when the ballast is full? :? Some months ago I posted a mod that provided a buzzer alarm when the ballast become full. Quite inexpensive, and retained the original components as back up. 8) Check it out. Tahoe Jack
In the past I usually just wait 5-10 minutes which should be more than enough time to fill the tank...

The ballast full alarm would be a good addition too


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Is there room?

Post by Night Sailor »

I've been hesitant to try any solution to the ballast tank check hassle on my "under the companion way step" valve because the stock set up allows the easiest access to the area under the cockpit when the step is removed. Pipes or valves sticking up . would just get in the way of dragging out gear.

Thinking about this thread however made me imagine a fuel tank sender and float being mounted there, with only two wires running to a gauge mounted somewhere convenient like the console. I iamgine it could be calibrated to tell me when the tank were empty, or when full.

Does anyone else think there is room for the float in that part of the ballast tank under the step?
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craiglaforce
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Post by craiglaforce »

For the house I have a water alarm that has a loud buzzer and a cord that goes to a small plastic tab. I think it works on capacitance between the 2 wires on the tab. Might be a simple mod. Just buy it and put the tab in the hole. Well, I guess you would have to put a switch in it to interrupt the circuit and turn off the buzzer once you know it is full.
I bought mine at home depot about 8 years ago when I bought a house with a sump pump. It uses a little 9 volt battery. The battery seems to last forever.

http://www.basementwatchdog.com/water_alarm.htm
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Post by Catigale »

Personally I think this is overkill for the manual option, but thats just jealousy speaking....(since I have a crew member responsible for ballast checking, I never have to deal with it 8) )

This is an elegant solution to the ballast valve problem, the beauty of it is that it avoids the marine tax by using standard consumer products made in large volume, with good reliability data as well as easy and fast availability of components.

What kind of engineer are you professionally Paul??

:D

ANy component failure wont take out your ballast system

Only other comment I could make is you could add a fitting onto the Cu pipe for a compressor perhaps, which would give you a blow ballast option in case you couldnt motor to drain.
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