Possible wiring routes on 26X & Shore power question

[Chip Hindes]

My boat is not slipped, so I have no AC installation, and little need. However, if it was slipped I'd want the hook-up design to be as starkly evident and grossly obvious as possible. Seems this would likely be a connection on the exterior "DC-bulkhead" (the "cockpit backrest" of the cabin) just portside of 26X companionway and clearly evident from the helm position.

Well...

Don't see any reason why a trailered boat has any less need for AC than a slipped boat. For the first three years of its life my boat was trailered exclusively and I hooked up the AC every time I parked the boat in the yard. Keeps the batteries charged and allows me to run the pancake anti mildew fan/ heater 24/7.

Also very handy when you are using the Mac as a travel trailer, particularly since you can't fire the motor to charge the batteries when in this mode. And now that I have Air Conditioning it will be doubly useful.

That being said, it is just as likely that you will pull away with the power hooked up when trailering as when slipped. Six years and counting, and I've done neither, though I've had a couple of close calls. It is also pretty handy to be able to hook up the AC while standing on the ground next to the trailer.

[Frank C]

I wasn't debating the benefits of a 120v installation, just that I'd see it more useful if my boat were slipped. I can think of three reasons AC isn't particularly useful on my trailer boat:

• 1. It's dry-stored in a mast-up lot with only distant, temporary access to 120v;
  2. NorCal climate means zero need for mildew control or cabin heat;
  3. For 7 years, so far, Suzuki 21-amp alternator obviates an AC charger.

Further, didn't mean to impugn the color of most AC cords ( ) ... rather, simply observing that the placement of the connection port might be strategically chosen (or would be for me, anyhow). Different circumstances make for different needs.
As always, YMMV.

[Trav White]

The previous owner of my boat had 30amp shore power installed, but said he never used it. I have tried to hook it up at 2 different docks, but when I turn on the breaker, I get a GREEN revers polarity light. Yes, the light above the "power" label is red and the light above the "reverse polariy" label is green. Does anyone know if this means my power is good, just that the lights are in the wrong labeled spot, or does this mean that I actually have a revers polarity and they used the wrong colored lights? Anyway to troubleshoot?

[Rich Plumb]

Trav, as long as I've been plugging into marina shore power (7 years), I've never gotten a reverse polarity indication. It may be that your reverse polarity indicator is a red/green LED and that green means "OK".

I suggest that, if at all possible, you try and find the specifications on your particular power panel.

If you have a standard 120 VAC household receptacle installed in the boat, then you can use one of those tester plugs from a hardware store to tell if the receptacle is wired correctly. If you are comfortable working around 120 VAC you can use an AC meter or test lamp, to verify that you have 120 VAC between the smaller of the two receptacle slots and the round ground slot.

~~~~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~~
Rich Plumb, "Plumb Crazy"
26X, Covington WA

[Catigale]

Trav - what a pain in the *****

So lets see...if the manufacturer of the main disconnect just swapped the label posiiton on the LEDs, you are fine.

IF the LEDS were mounted in the wrong holes you are fine.

If the LEDS were electrically wired to the wrong wires, you have reverse polarity.

So you have only a 1/3 chance of killing yourself....

Im actually amazed a manufacturer could let a key safety item like this get out the door in this condition - wonder what Legal would have to say about this..



Trav - can you take a picture of your breaker and we will post and compare to someone who has the same brand here?