Consolidated Trailer Repair or Replace ? Thread

[kziadie]

Huh? Leon, if I am understanding you right the problem on the left side just occured between driving the trailer from the repair shop back to your marina? Assuming that the trip is less than 100 miles that is an awful amount of wear in a very short time. You would think that such a severe problem would be readily visible. Forgive me for asking a stupid question... are you sure the the old right side tire didnt somehow end up on the left side?

As I mentioned earlier, if you do decide to spring for a new trailer, I would check out other options to the factory trailer to see if you can pick up something better at the same or slightly more cost.

Kelly

[Frank C]

Leon,

I spent about $600 for new brakes and brake actuator, another $500 for new wheels & tires. The local muffler shop charged me $750 to install all of it and move the fenders.

Your case is easier. Your 26M trailer already has the correct brake actuator (saving $200 parts cost, plus welding). You just need $300 for new Kodiak brakes, another $250 to install ... plus the axle & installation, which should be $250 Plus $150 installation. So it seems like about a boatbuck.

You already have the 15-inch wheels & tires, but you clearly need a couple of new tires ($200) and you'd be better to get a pair of new alloy wheels ($200). But these costs need be segregated from above, since you need to add them in both cases, regardless ... either refurb or new trailer.

[Boblee]

Crikey, most times I am very envious of you blokes and your cheap bits but the prices for trailers and repairs leave me in shock.

[delevi]

Couple of corrections to my earlier statements. The latest tread wear was on the inside part of the left wheel, not the outside. The distance traveled after changing to the spare was about 350 miles, inluding a trip to Celar Lake CA and to the shop and back. I incoreectly figured they couldn't have swapped the wheels since one side has a broken lug bolt, but I guess that doesn't matter. Since they took the wheels off and back on, they could have flip-flopped them. Wouldn't make sense for the tread wear to completely reverse, but it's clear that the wear is extremely excessive to the point of completely removing all tread in a very short distance. I think I'm going to pony up the dough for the nice new aluminum trailer and buy some rims which won't rust. That will leave nothing else to rust. Not sure I want to fuss with after market stuff, trying to find the right fit. Besides, Mac's price for the new trailer is very good, I happen to like it a lot, and I seriously doubt that I can find a cheaper after-market trailer for less money, at least in these parts. Still painful to shell out this kind of money to replace a trailer less than 3-years old. OTOH, I probably used my boat more in 3 years than many people have in 10 years, about 90% launching in salt water.

Frank,

I believe the new trailer, though protected from corrosion everywhere, still doesn't address the wheels, If I'm not mistaken, they're the same steel white wheels which turn orange very fast. You mentioned alloy. Are yours corrosion resistant?

Leon

[Frank C]

Yes. They're aluminum alloy wheels designed for trailers. Mine are still shiney bright looking after one year. Search on alloy wheels (all terms). There's a thread titled "Aluminum wheels."

I think you'll find them available at America's Discount Tire Center, special order at $75 each, plus tax. Details are in that thread. You'll also need to order some "capped" lugnuts, and I used never-seize on the threads.
(Haven't yet tried to remove them.)

[WASP18]

Thought I would share this recent estimate to repair my year 2000 X, painted-steel trailer (no brakes). New leaf springs and mounting hardware, new wheel hubs, replace "nose wheel" attached to jack. Axle is in very good condition so that will remain. PO used it twice a year to launch in the spring and recover in the fall. He also painted it two years ago. It's in overall good shape. The leaf springs and attached hardware tell the history of dipping in saltwater twice a year and not rinsing off. My tow beast is a GMC Savana Explorer (RV, van conversion) 300 HP ("Vortec" I think).

Estimate is $700 which includes labor at $100 per hour. Adding brakes would have come to an additional $500. We will use the trailer maybe three or four times a year. Boat is moored so the trailer will be at rest most of the season.

[Ormonddude]

OK just for the people on a budget I will jump in on my real world prices and observations. You can go to a welder have him reinforce everything that needs it I.E. corner joints of frame any steel looking thin (btw most welders are very smart as far as load requirements and strength) depending on how much he does to it $200 - $500 I am thinking closer to $200 as its a fairly new (lights always fail thats a given) Then I would search Craigslist for (Mobile Home Axle) most people sell them for around a $100 With Tires and Springs. Then I would paint the entire thing with POR15 I am not perfectly sure but I believe there is a California version available now then I would install new lights and call it a day for around $400-$700 Minus brakes which I would rebuild as I went with upgraded components as I transferred them or maybe just get a upgrade kit of stainless discs. All this being said if I was that close to the factory and had the $2200 option I would strongly consider it.

[WASP18]

Ormondude:

Thanks for the introduction to POR15! Never heard of it before. I was planning to search rust preventive paints and bingo. I ordered the starter kit from Amazon. I think 4 ounces will be enough for the rear and side beams up to the fender area. This is not about budget or limited funds. It's really about fixing up something with potential to last for several more years if properly maintained without spending a pile of money.

We looked at new aluminum trailers for around $3,500 and also saw what we can do with $700 bucks. It was an easy decision especially where we have a thirteen-year-old X trailer in good shape to begin with. It fits our mission of dipping the trailer in salt water only a few times a year.

[Ormonddude]

Ormondude:

Thanks for the introduction to POR15! Never heard of it before. I was planning to search rust preventive paints and bingo. I ordered the starter kit from Amazon. I think 4 ounces will be enough for the rear and side beams up to the fender area. This is not about budget or limited funds. It's really about fixing up something with potential to last for several more years if properly maintained without spending a pile of money.

We looked at new aluminum trailers for around $3,500 and also saw what we can do with $700 bucks. It was an easy decision especially where we have a thirteen-year-old X trailer in good shape to begin with. It fits our mission of dipping the trailer in salt water only a few times a year.

Your Welcome its very interesting stuff it goes on as a liquid then foams then the foam settles to the final coat it takes about 2-3quarts to do a entire trailer and then you need to top coat I used high Gloss rustoleum on the low gloss por15. A word to the wise is the stuff dries so tough if you get any on the can you can never get the top back off without cutting it somehow so if you do need to close it use two sheets of plastic wrap one over the can and one over the meeting portion of the lid that way the plastic will give way when you try to open it again. I did my entire trailer and it sure seems to be working.

[eaglelakejames]

I too need a new trailer and the only one I can find on the west coast is a $4500 tandem axle advertised on these pages.
I need the tandem axle but the price seems to high, do you know of any other similar trailers available on the west coast?
Please list model and manufacturer.
Thanks

[WASP18]

I too need a new trailer and the only one I can find on the west coast is a $4500 tandem axle advertised on these pages.
I need the tandem axle but the price seems to high, do you know of any other similar trailers available on the west coast?
Please list model and manufacturer.
Thanks

Here's a California trailer website with a variety of trailers from painted steel to aluminum. My guess is the prices run from low to high.
http://www.trailrite.com/

[eaglelakejames]

Thanks for the link, although the trailer is closer (SoCal) they want $5200 plus tax,gas & time for it. I'm slowly figuring out that by the time I factor in tax & delivery fuel. (No time mind u) I'll have to spend $5500 for a new, tandem axle, aluminium trailer. I'm still waiting for info from EZloader in the NW. Will post my findings when I finish shopping.

[eaglelakejames]

I'm basically in the same boat so to speak as the original topics author.
I tow on desolate stretches with no shoulder most of the time, even a flat could be a major issue.
IMHO spending 2k on a trailer that is still gong to be pig with lipstick after I'm finished is just not an option. As much as I hate to admit I'm going to own a new trailer soon.
Here are my findings RE: A new tandem axle trailer on the west coast.
First I ruled out any offering from the factory due to the inclusion of an unprotected iron member in their design.
All prices are customer pick up.
Loadrite-no west coast dealers
Sealion-same
EZloader-dealer/manufacturer in Washington, Aluminium Model TAB 23-27 5800lb $6000, Recommended (8500lb 25-27 to get bunks under the transom. I agree but can't afford it.
Trailrite-Santa Anna, CA Galv $6900
And the winner is...
WORDboat- dealer/manufacturer in Washington, Aluminium VATV-5925 $4550 (Designed specifically for the Macgregor market. Check them out, far and away the best value.
Still stings, gas, tax & title $5500 and 40hrs of driving to Washington and back.
Hope this saved you some time.

[WASP18]

Thought I would share this recent estimate to repair my year 2000 X, painted-steel trailer (no brakes). New leaf springs and mounting hardware, new wheel hubs, replace "nose wheel" attached to jack. Axle is in very good condition so that will remain. PO used it twice a year to launch in the spring and recover in the fall. He also painted it two years ago. It's in overall good shape. The leaf springs and attached hardware tell the history of dipping in saltwater twice a year and not rinsing off. My tow beast is a GMC Savana Explorer (RV, van conversion) 300 HP ("Vortec" I think).

Estimate is $700 which includes labor at $100 per hour. Adding brakes would have come to an additional $500. We will use the trailer maybe three or four times a year. Boat is moored so the trailer will be at rest most of the season.

The trailer shop called today to say my parts were in. I talked to the mechanic who's actually doing the work rather than the front office who originally didn't offer any comments about my idea to do a fix-up. I asked him for an opinion regarding my 13 year old trailer in its present condition, and what he thought overall of MacGregor trailers.

He said the steel they used was of good quality and my trailer was in very good condition; therefore, well worth repairing. The trailer just needs to be maintained and washed after dipping in water. In time, he suggested, look for areas that might show the beginnings of rust. Wire-brush them and paint them just as you would a ship. I pushed him on the condition of the axle and he insisted it was fine and it would be a waste of money to replace it. I told him I was surprised it was in good shape after reading all the stories on "a forum". The maintenance and care he suggested were all about common sense.

His opinion on trailer brakes based on my tow vehicle: Since I'm driving a GMC Savana V8 with four wheel disc brakes and having far more pulling capacity than needed for the 3500 lbs or so of a Mac, I'm OK.

I'm real lucky to have a shop nearby to do this kind of work at a reasonable price. They've been around for years. They advertise working with do-it-your-selfers in order to compete with the Internet.

[Tomfoolery]

I told him I was surprised it was in good shape after reading all the stories on "a forum". The maintenance and care he suggested were all about common sense.

My OEM steel trailer is in great shape, and it's 14 years old, but I don't think it's ever seen salt water. I did replace the whole brake system, as the drum system was rusted badly and sticking (smoking), as I've come to expect with drums. And the lights. And the bunks. But that's to be expected, and the steel was fine other than a little rot in one of the goalposts, which I cut out and replaced.

So yeah, I can believe yours is in good condition if it was maintained and didn't see a lot of salt.